A Grand Anniversary Part I: Getting Grand

Ours anniversary happened while COVID restrictions were lessening, and people were still a little unsure how to proceed. So, I decided to reduce uncertainty and just plan a road trip for our big celebration instead of an excursion to some exotic locale. Still, with six million visitors each year, my pick certainly wasn’t akin to the world’s largest peanut. You may have heard of the Grand Canyon? Since Jason and I only had vague memories of visiting it as kids, I selected that acclaimed chasm as our main destination. But what’s a road trip without a few* extra stops? *Disclaimer: “Few” in the preceding sentence may refer to any number between 17 and 726. Yes, our journey to the Grand Canyon formed a much squigglier route line than Google Maps would have tolerated. Here’s how our path ended up looking like the scribbles of a toddler.

East Zion Resort's treehouse
A 100-year-old cottonwood died and was resurrected as a house.
a shrub ascent
The treehouse’s trunk had been hollowed out to create a climbing wall. How cool!

Before we were even on the road, this trip proved convoluted. How do you pack for temperatures oscillating between the 40s and 90s? Eventually, we were in the car with way too much stuff in our trunk. It was a wet drive to our first lodgings with rain turning into slippery patches of snow off and on, not a typical April day.

Winsor Castle
Winsor Castle was constructed at Pipe Spring in 1872 after conflicts erupted between Mormon settlers and indigenous tribes.

A treehouse in Orderville, Utah was our accommodation that night. Yes, an actual house built in a tree not some figurative or misnamed edifice. Most treehouses fit about a kid and a half; this structure was comparatively spacious… I’m talking at least two kids. It was way too much fun being in a treehouse though to whine about minor inconveniences like having to literally crawl into bed. The only food we could get from town that night was homemade pie. So, with that as our single option, we ate pie for dinner in a treehouse, which is every child’s fantasy. If my ten-year-old self could have seen me, she would have thought I’d made it to the big leagues for sure.

Stone House
Blanche Russell used all the shortcuts nature had provided to build her home and businesses.

The next day, we were back on the road fairly early and thought we would reach our rented home in Williams, Arizona fairly early. The drive was only supposed to take four and a half hours, but it ended up taking eleven hours. How did our travel time nearly triple? Stopping at points of interest is a slippery slope. Our first step onto that slick decline was a detour to Pipe Spring, a small national monument not far out of the way. Pipe Spring has been a home and source of water for desert people for centuries including Ancestral Puebloans, Kiabab Paiutes, and Mormon ranchers. Although not large, this monument is flowing with historical information. As I am an unashamed sucker for historical information, we ended up lingering at Pipe Spring for two to three hours.

desert mushroom
Erosion does fungi things!

A bit further down the road, somewhere near the Vermillion Cliffs, we got sidetracked again by Blanche Russell’s Stone House and its surrounding structural oddities. Almost a century ago, Blanche utilized chunky boulders and mushroom rocks from the landscape to form portions of the walls and ceilings of buildings that were at first temporary shelters. Eventually, these became permanent residences and finally a restaurant and a trading post before the property changed hands several times and ultimately was abandoned. These manmade deviations from the desert caught our curiosity, but there were no signs nearby explaining what we were looking at. We weren’t sure if they had been constructed by bored teenagers or ambitious travel promoters. The facts we discovered later told of a much richer history.

Navajo Bridge
The older of the two spans at Navajo Bridge is 834 feet long and 467 feet above the Colorado.
California condors
A critically endangered species, only 350 California condors are found in the wild.

Besides some small diversions for viewpoints and meals, our next pause was at Navajo Bridge. Navajo Bridge is a pair of bridges that cross the Colorado River near Lees Ferry. The older of the two bridges was built in 1929 and is only used for pedestrians these days. Not only is it a historic span, but it is also one of the highest bridges in the United States at nearly 470 feet above the river’s surface. Need another reason to justify this road stop? Navajo Bridge provides a rare chance to see California condors, one of the scarcest birds, as it is a common hangout for the species. We caught one taking a break on a nearby outcropping.

Horseshoe Bend
Horseshoe Bend currently gets about two million visitors each year thanks to social media.

Enough sidetracking? I guess not. We rerouted again to visit Horseshoe Bend near Page. Horseshoe Bend is a u-shaped meander of the Colorado River that can be viewed from a cliff about 1000 feet above the water after a short hike. Although Horseshoe Bend was dramatic and tummy tingling, the crowds distracted from its elegance. Apparently, social media posts in recent years have exponentially increased its popularity. We encountered a couple taking a barrage of selfies every 10 feet, which perfectly sums up the downside to this sinuous wonder. Still, Horseshoe Bend is worth seeing.

above the bend
Even with tourists overrunning the rocks, I managed to get this picture above Horseshoe Bend.

Another break or two for food, and we were at our destination. Exhaustion didn’t keep us from catching a view from the top of the world, or at least from a mile up, the following day. Next time, I will discuss our experience at the Grand Canyon from the prospects to the people.