The Crevices’ Perspective

The next morning, we headed west to the dry and rusty side of the island. There, once-black volcanic rock has eroded into brilliant scarlets due to its high iron oxide content. After stopping at Aloha Sweet Delights for some malasadas and manju, which I would highly recommend, we hit the Kukui Trail in Waimea State Park. This trail falls 2,300 feet into the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” While gravity was ever on our minds, and we knew we must reclimb what we lost, we willingly descended 1,100 feet over 1.25 miles to gorge ourselves on this chasm’s chaotic colors and thin ribbons of basalt. Thankfully, it was easier than expected returning due to the surplus oxygen at 2,700 feet above sea level. (Being a mountain girl does have its advantages.) Unfortunately, it was not less sweaty than expected. Blast you humidity! Or blast me humidity?

After our first hike and a brief detour to examine the Waimea Canyon Lookout, we headed out on the Pihea Trail. With a short extra spur up the Pihea Vista Trail, which only Jason managed, we trekked 2.3 miles on this stunning but challenging route, easily one of the oddest paths I’ve ever been on. It starts on the lip of the Kalalau Valley 4,000 feet from the ocean. Our guidebook called it “often muddy.” However, lured by the dramatic views and the dazzling fern and ‘ohi’a forest, we let the ease of the first section convince us that we’d lucked out and hit the trail during a dry spell. Therefore, we didn’t appreciate how long the rest of the way would take us or how much muck we’d have to navigate. We ended up returning to our car in the dark, and Jason was the only one who made it up the Vista extension thanks to a giant pit filled with mud at least half a foot deep blocking all routes. I lacked the primate skills to bypass it, though I considered taking some big risks. It’s a good thing my fear of becoming a sludge critter overshadowed my desire to complete the task. The bits of mud I accumulated on other sections of the trail were extremely hard to remove. After three scrubbings, my legs were still invisibly caked.

On our drive out of the canyon, we paused for a moment to glance at the stars. The Milky Way stretched directly over our heads striping the sky with its distinct chalky shimmers. Sometimes, a good sighting of that streak alone can remind you of your irrelevance, but we’d had millions of years of vibrant geology to prompt that feeling already.

The Flow’s Perspective

The following day, we toured the Allerton Garden, which is part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Over the space of 2.5 hours, we learned about the history and flora of this deliberate landscape, which began to be designed more than 100 years ago. There, bamboos, rare palms, cycads, gingers, lilies, and countless other species blend with unique water features to form peaceful and impressive pockets of life. South Pacific, Jurassic Park, and Pirates of the Caribbean are amongst the films that have used this flourishing setting as a backdrop. While our tour was marvelous, it was also wet. We weren’t prepared for the soaking we received. Moreover, we didn’t learn our lesson about not trusting the sunshine to last on Kauai. More on our stupidity later.

We deviated on our return from the garden to check out nearby Spouting Horn, a blowhole formed from a lava tube. This feature can blast ocean water up to 50 feet in the air. Another nearby tube that only fills with air emits grumbling and hissing sounds while Spouting Horn spews brine, adding to the illusion of its legend. In Hawaiian mythology, those noises emanate from a giant lizard trapped in the blowhole by a crafty fisherman. The “lizard’s” laments sounded like a Yellowstone geyser. The Yellowstone of the Pacific? No?

Later that afternoon, we again attempted to hike the Maha’ulepa Heritage Trail, this time with Jason’s parents. We failed once more not because of gashes but because of gushes. When we had gone just shy of a mile, it started pouring. We ran for cover, but cover wasn’t close… it was a mile away. By the time we reached our hotel, no part of us was dry and much was coated with Kauai’s persistent dirt.

The Locals’ Perspective

We spent a share of the next afternoon with friends who had moved to Kauai, which gave me a chance to pepper them with questions about their island experiences. They kindly took us to Farm Reservoir where we attempted eFoiling and paddle boarding. Well, Jason tried it, and I tried to take pictures of his undertakings in the rain. Not the easiest thing… for either of us. In case you didn’t catch that, yes, it did drizzle on us again.

Afterward, we had a fantastic dinner at Eating House 1849, our favorite meal of the trip. Online reservations were booked six weeks out, but we happened to walk by the restaurant and happened to ask about availability, and they happened to have a spot an hour later.

Next week, more perspective coverage is coming.