As I mentioned in my last post, food and footpaths are primary attractions in Torrey. We couldn’t jump right onto a trail the instant we arrived, but we didn’t waste any time getting to the eating. That evening we dined at my favorite section of Hell. Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm has been a beloved out-of-the-way dining location for us since we first discovered it about 15 years ago. The required 50-minute drive up Boulder Mountain is quickly forgotten when the Jenchiladas, Blue Ribbon Black-Powder Biscuits, blueberry bread pudding, and seasonal favorites hit the tongue. This time, those seasonal offerings included asparagus and peas from the Hell’s Backbone Farm. Delish! We loaded up past our max fill lines and then dodged black free-range cattle on the dark trip back to Torrey.
The next day, we hiked in Capitol Reef National Park on the Navajo Knobs Trail. The Navajo Knobs are a cluster of bumpy outcroppings at the tippy top of one of the park’s many plateaus. Hikers can bail halfway up this path to complete just the Rim Overlook or continue another 2.4 miles to reach the top. We weren’t sure how 2,400 feet of elevation change would go over with my testy, recovering knee. Hence, we’d settled on ending at that halfway point and only 1,110 feet of altitude variation. However, once we reached the Rim Overlook, I could tell we would decide to go all the way, 9.4 miles RT, knee aside. Why waste all the already-exerted effort?
Past the Rim Overlook, the route to the Navajo Knobs keeps mostly to cliff edges but rarely close enough to make the typical person nervous. (That includes me in this case!) Although the trail is almost exclusively uphill, the grade stays below 30% except during a short, final scramble up one of the knobs. While some guidebooks claim there are two knobs, that’s not true as there are a whole cluster of bulbous bulges of varying sizes protruding from the plateau top. The trail leads you up the westernmost one.
The views along this path were spectacular and alien even to us, Utah natives. The plateau traversed is not straight but noticeably angled, giving a greater appreciation for the wrinkled nature of the Waterpocket Fold, Capitol Reef’s defining geological feature. This lovely setting must be too strenuous for most as we saw just two people in total once we passed the Rim Overlook. I was okay with that.
It took us five hours and 40 minutes to complete the Navajo Knobs, which apparently is in the “normal” window. Also in our normal window is not making it back before dark. We were typical in that regard as well. We only needed flashlights for the last third of a mile though, and that’s better than our average.
For our last day in Capitol Reef, we decided to hike another route classified as strenuous, the Freemont Gorge Overlook, even though we’d pushed my knee and our legs in general the day before. (For the record, my knee handled the challenge with dignity and only a little swelling.) The path to the Fremont Gorge Overlook, according to the park’s trail guide, is identical in length and almost equivalent in elevation change to the Rim Overlook. Therefore, we were expecting another enduring uphill workout. Instead, we got ups on either end of a long section of level.
The route climbs one steep 300-foot hill and then kicks back for an extensive, nearly flat traverse across the meadow topping Johnson Mesa. Johnson Mesa’s crown is strewn with desert grasses and lava rocks spewed from Boulder Mountain 20-30 million years ago. Glaciers brought those giant stones to Capitol Reef at the end of the last ice age where they now look completely out of place. That curious meadow is followed by another long climb, about 700 feet in elevation.
The Fremont Gorge Overlook is about 4.5 miles RT. It took us a bit under three hours and required less energy than the Rim Overlook portion of the Navajo Knobs Trail, despite their supposed similarities in length and elevation change.
Please note, the Fremont Gorge Overlook has absolutely no shade on it. If you hike it in the summer, I’d highly recommend going early or late in the day. The other thing it had absolutely none of? People. We saw exactly no one on it, which made it all the better.
That sums up the Torrey piece of our desert extravaganza. The entire holiday pie was magnificent and memorable from its smallest corridors to its vastest vistas! I’ll end with one final comment on luck. Spring weather in Utah can be temperamental, but it was nearly ideal during our entire trip. It oscillated from the low 70s to the mid-80s and was almost always windy. It never got uncomfortably hot, but we did make use of jackets on occasion. The day we left, temperatures dropped down into the 50s, and it started raining. The luck of the slickrock was on our side!