Summer 2023: the Boys, the Hikes, and the Birds

As a kid, I remember getting out of school for summer break and feeling like an endless amount of time spanned solidly between me and the point when I’d have to sit at a desk again. And yet, summer passed in a bundle of water fights, sleepovers, TV shows, visits from grandparents, and a few “I’m bored” moments. Now, summer always seems to elapse at an even brisker pace despite no protestations of boredom. One moment you are planning a summertime trip that’s months away. Then, in a flash, you are wondering how the leaves are already falling. In a futile attempt to freeze summer’s passage, here is a small synopsis of our outdoor undertakings in the summer of 2023. A typo? Nope, 2023 for reals. Why am I so behind on posts? The busier life gets, the more there is to write about but the less time there is to do it. This post may be hopelessly outdated, but its contents are nearly as timeless as drinking from the hose or gliding on a Slip N Slide.

Early in the summer, Jason and I took my parents to see the Beach Boys perform at Deer Valley. We brought them comfy chairs and loaded them up with plenty of Deer Valley’s housemade potato chips, which are a personal favorite. They dropped decades as they bopped in their matching, squatty lawn seats.

Beach Boys (and girls)
There’s nothing like music to take away the years and make you feel like a teenager again.

In mid-July, we treated Jason’s family to a day at Snowbird Resort in honor of all their birthdays for the year. Jason and his brother both crashed on the alpine slide within minutes of starting their first descents due to unwarranted speeds. It’s possible poor judgement is genetic. The fam took the tram to the top of Hidden Peak. Fields of snow remained in those upper regions, which made widespread butt sliding an inevitability.

A couple weeks later, Jason and I went to Snowbird again sans family and hiked down from the Peruvian Chairlift, which apparently is about 3.5 miles. There was a heat advisory in the valleys, but we had jackets on for the first third of this trek as 6,700 extra feet do make a substantial difference. Although it was the end of July, the area still had extensive snow coverage.

Willow Lake
Willow Lake is small, but the hike to it, which winds through aspen forests, is delightful.

In August, we hiked to Willow Lake (2.5 miles RT) with my sister’s family, my brother’s family, and my parents. The hike was quite mellow and passed through fields of wildflowers made shoulder-high by the extraordinary wetness of the season. Afterward, we headed to the Limber Grove Overnight Group Site at Jordan Pines. Although some members of the company were going to camp, that plan fell apart because they “forgot” their camping gear. Unlike the last-minute flakers, Jason and I had decided beforehand that we were going to forget our camping gear and sleep at home, but we happily hung out until midnight.

the wilds of Willow Lake
In the winter of 2023, Big Cottonwood Canyon got over 900 inches of snowfall, and six months later its wildflowers were shoulder high.

During that time, we took a break from the campfire to hike to Donut Falls (1.5 miles RT) just before (and slightly after) it got dark. Although this trail was minutes away from our campsite, none of the kids wanted to hike, so the outing became just Jason, my brother, and my brother-in-law wandering alone down what is typically an extremely popular path. I guess it’s not just teenagers who don’t appreciate the ambiance of a little dusk trudge.

That evening coincided with the peak of the annual Perseid meteor shower and the launch of 22 Starlink satellites. In addition to witnessing a few shooting stars, we saw Starlink pass through the heavens like a bedazzled caterpillar. We consumed my brother’s famous “car” chili and my soon-to-be-famous waffle smores. It was a pleasant evening followed by a pleasant night of sleeping in our own beds.

The next day, Jason and I hiked to Primrose Overlook in American Fork Canyon (3.6 miles RT) and completed the loop back on the Lame Horse Trail. Like the wildflowers on the Willow Lake Trail, the plants on this path were overly sized and exaggeratedly lush – a fern and aspen jungle.

Snake Creek Pass
Snake Creek Pass looked familiar and unfamiliar uncovered from snow.

On Labor Day weekend, just after doing the Dusk to Dawn Relay + Ultra, Jason and I hiked over 6.1 miles to the top of Preston Peak (10,315 ft) at Brighton Resort. Clayton Peak, the crest above Great Western Express, was our original goal, but daylight didn’t cooperate with our plans. Getting profoundly distracted by the top of Snake Creek Pass in its summertime strangeness didn’t help with time management either. As it was, we ended up doing half of the hike back in the dark, which happened to coincide with the half we did in the rain.

Brighton
We’ve traveled down these slopes many times, but usually we are strapped in.

I didn’t mind a dark, wet return. Snake Creek is sacred. For so many winters, its sunshine and exhilaration have saved me from the bleak throes of winter. Although the terrain looked uncanny sheathed in bright flowers and vibrant greens, joy, serenity, strength, and connection, the remnants of so many powder days, seemed to emanate from the trees, rocks, and even the earth. Still, that joy and serenity didn’t keep us from needing extra jackets from the top of the pass on as the wind also did its part to remind us of frigid days past. It took us about 3.5 hours to complete this hike.

In September, we were back at a different resort. A group of my family trekked to the top of Hidden Peak at Snowbird. And yes, a tram goes to that same summit, but if you catch a ride, you miss nearly 3,000 feet of elevation gain and a serious thigh workout. You wouldn’t want to miss out on a thigh high would you? It was chilly on Hidden Peak even with a hoodie as it was in the mid-50s and a bit breezy. The sweat we’d accumulated on the climb didn’t help.

Hidden Peak
Hidden Peak isn’t exactly a solitary spot as The Summit, Utah’s highest restaurant, sits at its apex, and up to 100 people can travel to it every 20 minutes on Snowbird’s tram.

Just a couple days after our hike at Snowbird, a greater swath of my family gathered there again for Oktoberfest and its associated activities. This was the whole gang’s Christmas present from my parents. We arrived early to give us a couple hours before the crowds came for their steins. The group did the mountain coaster, alpine slide, ropes course, and tree climb. Many also conquered the vertical drop and ZipWhipper. The vertical drop is a 50-foot plunge from a bungee rope at sub-bungee speeds. While the ZipWhipper is 20 seconds of rock climbing followed by a backward swing in the air. Both are mild mental challenges not real challenges, but some of the kids regarded them as the latter. Most of our party also took the Peruvian Chairlift and Tunnel to reach Mineral Basin. It was beautiful and nippy at the top; two jackets weren’t enough… again. Maybe I should have just called this post “Remember Your Jackets.”

We took a break to eat some Bavarian foods in a massive tent with what felt like about a million people. If you decide to do this tent meal thing at Oktoberfest, go early. The tent never calms down once lunchtime hits; it’s still a mess well into the afternoon.

Deer Creek-Dry Creek
The “white rock” as we call it is one of the Deer Creek-Dry Creek Trail’s best viewpoints.

In other 36-month-old news, Jason and I climbed a significant portion of the Deer Creek-Dry Creek Trail on some random day in some random month – okay, it was September if you want to be particular. We had to turn around and start our hike over about a half mile in due to a pant malfunction, so our dreams of making it to the Box Elder saddle were thwarted. However, a new goal developed as we walked. There is a massive rock along this path with an excellent viewpoint that we thought was “just up the hill” from our current location for about a mile. That wishful rocking delayed us from turning around judiciously as night approached. Ultimately, we hiked 7.3 miles, which would have gotten us to the saddle in normal circumstances. Nonetheless, it was a picturesque ramble with few people. The scrub oaks were shifting from green to red in large patches while the aspens were still resisting the inevitable. Despite our misguided rock seeking, we only had to complete the last mile or so with a flashlight. That’s pretty good for us.

on the Primrose path
The hike to Primrose Overlook is particularly glorious when the aspens have changed into their buttery autumn gowns.

Less than a week later, we trekked up to the Primrose Overlook and looped back on the Lame Horse Trail (3.6 miles). Although it had only been six days since our last visit to American Fork Canyon, the scenery looked much different. The aspens had begun transforming too, and more people were roaming about to gawk at them. It sprinkled on us here and there but was only chilly right at the overlook. Otherwise, with a jacket or two, we felt toasty. A lovely hike!

Primrose Overlook
Primrose Overlook provides excellent views of the east side of Mount Timpanogos, Robert’s Horn, and the Heber Valley.

That sums up the summer of 2023. Yes, it was a while back, but may it be forever etched in my memory like Kick the Can and BMX bikes. Also, don’t forget your jackets!

Pine and Mountain Mint

Jason and I gave my family members their pick between four potential activities as their birthday presents in 2023. A morning of rappelling down waterfalls was the wildest of these alternatives. In August, the brave individuals who chose this option headed into the mountains with a few canyoneering guides. Here is the synopsis of that soggy and slippery adventure.

hanging by Lisa
A hanging valley is a valley that enters a larger one at a higher elevation giving the appearance that it is hanging.

Our group started on some 35-foot cliffs in Big Cottonwood Canyon to improve our minimal rappelling skills. Then, we moved over to Little Cottonwood and the Lisa Falls Trail. Lisa Falls is a popular destination as the hike to it is extremely short, and it tumbles at an unusual askew angle over imposing granite blocks. Although Jason and I had been to the waterfall before, we’d never explored the elevations above it. As we discovered, what’s beyond is even more impressive.

short climbing
Short climbing makes hazardous paths less likely to cause substantial damage.
glacial reminders
The Little Cottonwood Canyon glacier was the largest on the Wasatch Range, taking up 12 miles and spilling five miles out of the canyon into Lake Bonneville.

Lisa Falls extends out of a hanging valley formed by a glacier tributary. This valley is distinctly U-shaped and once held heavy ice that flowed into Little Cottonwood Canyon’s larger glacier. That greater glacier covered 12 miles of the canyon in ice up to 850 feet deep at one time.

a chiseled slide
Granite chiseled by ice and augmented by a mountain environment makes for a charming spot to dangle.

We used short climbing to get up this hanging valley. For those unfamiliar, short climbing is a technique used to make difficult terrain safer to scale. It involves linking multiple people together via rope to decrease the chances of any of them falling unhindered.

my perfect adventurer
Jason is both curious and daring, the perfect combination of attributes for an adventurer.

After we had climbed this attractive crevice, we rappelled down. We did five rappels, three of which were slick and drenching. When rappelling a waterfall, you must face away from the rock and only use one hand to descend. Otherwise, the force of the water combined with the slippery surface may turn you upside down and/or cause significant rock whackings. Asking the inexperienced to do one-handed, front-facing rappels is asking a lot. Apparently, most of the waterfall sections in this canyon are classified as 3C, with the last of those being 197 feet long. I’m too inexperienced to fully understand the substance of those ratings.

“dry”
This active spout was an alleged “dry” route.

However, although our route was sometimes tricky, the views distracted us from being intimidated. The area was beautiful beyond our expectations. We had no idea Lisa Falls extends so far up the mountain on a path that is exceptionally gorgeous. The scenery also distracted us from our sogginess. It turns out, waterfalls are wet. Everyone returned sopping and nearly all returned with scrapes. Our niece received the most significant abrasions of the outing when both her knees banged against a rock during a descent. Still, no one was complaining. On the contrary, the magnitude of one nephew’s smiles increased in proportion to the magnitude of the soaking he was presently receiving. Unlike him, I elected to take two of the optional “dry” routes instead of going down the area with the heaviest current. One of these was far from dry, and I got thoroughly re-drenched from the waist down.

keeping current
It may seem obvious that waterfall rappelling involves wetness, but currents still surprise.

What an awesome adventure! Our clothes came back smelling of pine and mountain mint, the scents that permeated that alpine water. Like our fits, our bodies too returned refreshed.

Prose and the Pando

My family has been going to the Utah Shakespeare Festival off and on for decades. In the summer of 2023, my clan made this outing work again over a long weekend. Family members came and went at an almost comical frequency, and Jason and I were the constants who stayed through their arrivals and departures. From transformative phrasing to transformative proliferation, the two of us relished the unrelated opportunities of the unique surroundings. Here’s a little taste of our relish and spread.

The first group of family who joined us in Cedar City was a sister and two nieces. With them we shared A Midsummer Night’s Dream and pizza. That play is a favorite of mine as it is silly, witty, and full of jackasses.

Double Arch Alcove
Double Arch Alcove tempts mindfulness with cooler temperatures and countless rhythmic drips.

The next morning, as family members were traveling back and forth, Jason and I headed to the Kolob Canyons portion of Zion National Park. Zion was the third most visited national park in the U.S. in 2023. However, its Kolob Canyons district, located separately in the northwest corner of the park, sees far less tourists. Kolob is home to a number of box canyons, gorges with only one entrance/exit and walls 2,000 feet high. We journeyed down one of these on the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek Trail.

Taylor Creek is likely the most popular hike in Kolob Canyons. We saw a fair number of people as we headed up but had the alcove and the return route entirely to ourselves. What alcove? Double Arch Alcove is the primary draw for the Taylor Creek Trail. Double Arch Alcove, despite its name, contains no visible arches. Instead, there you will encounter a dramatic grotto with sandstone shelves stacked in towering layers and covered in thick moss. Not only is the scenery captivating, but the moisture and shade create mild temperatures and a melodic stereo of drips, which enrapture other senses.

Fife Cabin
Fife and Larson worked on their cabins together using materials brought to the area by horses.

Double Arch Alcove is this hike’s endpoint for most people, but we decided to investigate what secrets the canyon beyond might possess. We were rewarded with a waterfall about half a mile upstream in a circular chamber carved by water. As scaling this feature was impossible without gear, it marked the end of our upstream travel.

Although we started hiking around 12:30 and finished up at 4:30, catching much of the August afternoon’s heat, we got sweaty but not sickly. That was thanks to temperature highs that were uncommonly low, just in the mid-80s, a nice treat for Southern Utah in its most searing time of year.

If you are familiar with the Taylor Creek Trail, you may be wondering why it took us four hours to finish about 5.8 miles, especially with an online completion estimate of two hours. Some of the blame for our dillydallying lies in man not nature. This path passes two small historic buildings constructed in the 1930s, the Larson and Fife Cabins. These structures were once owned by Southern Utah State College (now Southern Utah University). Professors used them while grazing sheep or goats in the area before it was a national park. Of course, we had to stop for a closer look not just graze by.

A little dehydrated but otherwise in good shape, we met up with a mostly different group of family that night for Romeo and Juliet. You always hope the ending of that play changes, but it never does.

The next morning, we went to the Festival City Farmers Market. Although this bazaar is tiny compared to Salt Lake City’s, it was still fun to scan and purchase some local wares and grub. Afterward, we held a picnic in a park we often utilized when we came down to Cedar City as youngsters. Then, it was off to Jane Austen’s Emma the Musical. This performance included both beguiling tunes and Mr. Knightley. Need I say more? Macarons and bookshops followed. Then, The Play That Goes Wrong. The Play That Goes Wrong is hilarious and extremely British. It was first performed in London starting in 2012 and has been running there ever since. It’s a whodunit play within a play. Spoiler alert: everything goes wrong.

That was the end of our shows but not the end of our adventures. Jason and I have wanted to see the Pando for a few years, so we decided to make that happen on our return drive. The what, you ask? The Mando? The panda? Pando, the world’s biggest and densest living organism, is comprised of a single quaking aspen’s clones- 40,000 of them. It is spread over more than 100 acres and weighs 6,000 tons. Any gym rat knows that bulking up takes time, and such is the case with Pando. Its age is estimated between 3,000 and 14,000 years making it one of the oldest, if not the oldest, organisms on the planet. Where can you find this dendrophiles’ delight? It is located near the shores of Fish Lake about 45 minutes from both Richfield and Torrey. Acquiring outstanding views of Pando, however, takes a little more effort than just getting to the lake. It can be hard to differentiate Pando from the other aspens around it. Here are the deets on how we remedied that.

Pando
Pando is Latin for “I spread.”

We parked our cars on the lake’s south side at Sewer Lagoon Road, just a bit off the main highway (UT-25). Then, we walked down the road about a quarter of a mile to an access point for the Lakeshore National Recreation Trail, which goes around the entire perimeter of the lake. Cars with enough clearance can just drive to this trail access, but one car in our group was too low.

We took the Lakeshore National Recreation Trail to the Rim Overlook, which has a posted sign. Then, we continued for a quarter mile past a gate at the top of the hill until we hit a rock outcropping on the left side of the path (west) with a fantastic prospect of Pando and Fish Lake. If you are looking out from that viewpoint, where can you see Pando? It will be to the southwest with its northeast corner at the campground, just west of the group sites.

This vista was better than others we passed on the way. Though the route was longer than what we found outlined online, the 6.2 miles RT were worth it. The scenery was a beautiful mix of forest, shoreline, and wetland, and we saw no one while hiking. Despite its lack of traffic, the path was well maintained. Overall, I was impressed with Fish Lake, and I’d happily come back. FYI, the trail is mostly flat for about a mile and a half and then heads up a series of switchbacks. My mother, who is in her 70s, made it a mile out without any problems.

Our oversized weekend flew by with a few chaotic moments as family members arrived and left. However, it was less hectic than other years since group numbers were low at any given time. Jason and I didn’t let chaos or cultural masterpieces impede us from appreciating natural wonders. From monologues to monoclones, the outing was anything but monotonous.