Jason’s family typically does a camping excursion at least once every summer. We try to join them if it works out. When they took a trip to Strawberry Reservoir in late June, it did. Despite this being a camping outing, it did not actually entail any camping for Jason and me. However, it did involve playing Cards Against Humanity in fake British accents while an inviting fire warmed up backsides, hiking on unoccupied trails, and driving across scenic mountainsides in a UTV. So, I think we still deserve a tiny bit of outdoor cred.
Views delighted us on all sides as we bounced along.
First and foremost, let me address how this trip became camping in name only. While the rest of the group camped at Strawberry Reservoir, one of Utah’s most popular fishing spots, we had no desire to do any angling. Therefore, we opted to spend a couple nights at Daniels Summit Lodge instead. This lodge is only 15 minutes from Strawberry, which made it too convenient to ignore as a potential sleeping location.
Being lodgers instead of campers didn’t prevent us from visiting the group’s fire for a game of Cards Against Humanity, which we played on multiple tables to allow for social distancing. We incorporated phony accents into this already ludicrous game. Somehow, I won. Yup, my mind is as warped as a funhouse mirror.
The aspens were so dense in some places they practically formed an arboreal wall.
On one day of our stay, Jason and I rented a four-seat RZR. Different portions of Jason’s family took turns occupying our backseat. We did loops that took us from forest service roads to narrower rocky routes. What could be more macho than cruising ATV roads in a rugged RZR? How about moving a giant pine tree that fell across the path just minutes before you arrived? That’s right, my tiny biceps are bigger on the inside. Yeah, okay, so I helped marginally, and Jason did most of the heavy lifting. But hey, lifting logs is one of the few ways men can prove their usefulness.
The blasts that brought down that tree were relentless that entire afternoon. They blew between 20 and over 30 MPH for hours. They assaulted Daniels Summit with micro gusts above 80 MPH. That didn’t stop us from riding our UTV to the top of Strawberry Peak, an isolated summit with an elevation of 9,714 feet. With commanding views of the Wasatch Range from Mount Timpanogos all the way to Mount Nebo, this was one of the highlights of our drive.
Apparently, some RZR models can go up to 80 MPH. That doesn’t seem necessary in a world with so many rocks.
Not camping while on this camping trip proved wiser than Jason and I have the years to expect. Although it was nearly July, winter made a temporary comeback during our stay. At Daniels Summit, the temperatures plunged from the high 70s down to the low 30s. Having walls made out of something other than nylon proved quite advantageous.
If a little 80 MPH wind couldn’t impede us, neither could some nearly freezing temperatures. After things got chilly, we hiked both the Heber Valley Overlook and Donkey Ridge Trails in the Dutch Hollow portion of Wasatch Mountain State Park, which add up to about four miles. Thanks to the threat of rain and the unusual temperatures, we saw exactly two hikers and one biker during our whole afternoon spent on these popular trails. I’m not sure why the cooler weather scared away others; I’d take having to wear two jackets any day over wanting to peel back a layer of my skin to cool down.
The trail to the Heber Valley Overlook is usually quite congested. That was not so during our visit.
That is the complete story of our card playing, tree dragging, peak parking, trail riding, wind bracing, path climbing, dog days freezing, no-camping camping trip.
Jason and I were supposed to take a trip to the Caribbean with his parents in June. That didn’t happen… you may have heard of this COVID thing? Since our sanity was borderline after months of homebodyness, we opted to at least take a little break in Zion National Park and its surrounds. COVID had created a little chaos down there but had also disrupted Zion’s regular crowds. That worked for us. Frankly, we probably would have been happy going to the world’s most exotic toenail collection- heck, maybe even its least exotic one- as long as it got us out of the house for a few days.
I had to do that to take this. Was it worth it? Maybe we should ask Jason’s shoulders.
In keeping with the contemporary confusion, even prepping for this trip was slightly chaotic. After months of journeying nowhere, an abnormality for us, I kind of forgot what I usually pack and my packing process. It’s funny how quickly routines get erased. Good thing I have a packing list, or who knows what I would have missed- underwear, toothbrush, camera, deodorant… husband.
The path to Angels Landing has an elevation change of 1,500 feet. Yes, it’s noticeable.
Springdale, the gateway to Zion, is usually overrun with tourists in the summer. It only had a fraction of its normal throngs during our stay. It seemed a little uncanny to have the sun blasting there without the people blasting; the town felt half-awake. Don’t mistake my puzzlement for a complaint. You will get no grumbles from me on this.
You must traverse 21 abrupt switchbacks known as Walter’s Wiggles on the trek to Angels Landing.
Zion Canyon, where the majority of Zion’s attractions are located, has been closed to private vehicles for years due to congestion. Shuttles are typically the only way to access it during all but the winter months. However, the shuttles were not operating when we visited because of COVID. What did this mean? Vehicles were only allowed to enter the canyon until available parking filled up. Parking opened at 6:00 AM and filled up… oh, a few minutes later. Okay, maybe 43 minutes later on a lucky morning. We avoided this headache by only going into Zion Canyon later in the day. We hiked elsewhere in the park and outside the park the rest of the time and kept our heads comfortably on our pillows past 6:00 AM.
Refrigerator Canyon provides the only shade along route to Angels Landing.Although the chained part of Angels Landing was closed, Scout Lookout did not disappoint with its magnificent views of Zion Canyon’s unforgiving bluffs.
Our first evening in the area, we took the Kayenta Trail to the Upper Emerald Pool. We made it back just before it got dark and only saw a handful of people along the route. It was great to see nature instead of folks when visiting nature. We also heard nature. Canyon tree frogs serenaded us at the pool. They sound like goats, so that’s what we thought we were listening to. Also, the idea of the noises originating from a mountain lion was tossed around. Grrrr!
At Scout Lookout, cliffs abound.
The next morning, after enjoying an outdoor breakfast, we headed up the Watchman Trail, which leads to views of a stone pinnacle looming more than 2,000 feet above Springdale. This trail was hot, especially on our windless ascent. I asked myself many times, How did I get so much sweat there? Alas, the universe had no answers for me, but the vistas were fantastic.
Red Hollow was easy to navigate but still provided a touch of adventure with its narrow cavities and rippled rock.
Angels Landing is a Zion classic Jason and I hadn’t done in nearly 20 years. Another 20 would have been an inexcusable shame, so we opted to make that trail the focus of our evening. While the final chain section past Scout Lookout was closed due to COVID concerns, the rest was wide open. Apparently, the crowds on this trail alone can become a safety hazard in the middle of tourist season. We encountered a few groups but had most of the path to ourselves. As we passed through Refrigerator Canyon on our hike back, we came across a fluffy Mexican spotted owl, a threatened species that has found a home in Zion, making a contact call to its mama. Even in the near dark, that owlet was so cute this sentence needs a few exclamation marks!!!
This dubious rope kept most of us from reaching Red Hollow’s genesis, but it didn’t stop Jason.
Our last day in the area, we explored some lesser-known trails and interest points between Zion and Kanab. Red Hollow, a small slot canyon near Orderville, was our first stop. This hike is short and clambers through a portion of the canyon that is usually dry. While definitely a slot for beginners, the scrambling was still fun. Somewhere in the middle of the canyon, a dry fall with a flimsy rope halted the upward progress of everyone but Jason. As he is part monkey, he made it all the way to the end.
Red Hollow Canyon cuts beneath the colorful Elkhart Cliffs.
After getting some grub in Kanab, we headed to the Sand Caves. The Sand Caves, really one cave with multiple openings, are the remnants of a sand mining operation that briefly took place back in the 70s. This cavern is up on a cliffside but can be reached with some quick scaling. While the cave’s soft stone has unfortunately made it an easy target for graffiti, its swirling deposits are still enthralling.
The Sand Caves near Kanab weren’t made by nature but are picturesque and interesting nonetheless.
Our last stop of the day was Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. This park encompasses nearly 4,000 acres of sand hued by Navajo sandstone. While the ATVs on the dunes were a bit distracting at times, the terrain was beautiful. It looked like a giant flag of tangerine silk billowing in an undetectable breeze.
I’m not a fan of graffiti, but this grabbed my attention.
We left Springdale on a Friday morning just as the area was ramping up for the weekend. Since our visit, Zion National Park has resumed its shuttle services. I’m guessing that means Springdale and Zion are now humming along in a much more normal fashion, though some swarm reduction can probably still be achieved during the week. I’m glad we were able to visit this region in its more disorganized but less crammed state. What a lift this break was to our shut-in spirits!
The sand at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park is striking and soft.
On a side note, southern Utah is hot. Although it was only early June, Zion was already cooking. The first day of our trip had a pleasant high in the low 80s, but for the duration of our visit, 90 and up was the forecasters’ accurate prophecy. If you go to Zion anytime during the summer, expect to scorch. And on a final note, I want to extend a big thank you to the rangers who were directing confused sightseers all while wearing masks in the swelter. Under the circumstance, these stewards did a remarkable job.
Celebrating anything during COVID requires creativity and flexibility. Our anniversary this year evolved into not involving any trips, but it did take us outside our house, which is practically like a trip these days.
It was Jason’s turn to plan our anniversary activities. With so much uncertainty at present, I didn’t begrudge him the task. He made us a berries and cream cheese French toast casserole for breakfast, which we enjoyed on our patio. In the afternoon, we went on a hike along the Bonneville Shoreline Trail to the Bear Canyon Bridge and back, which was just over 3.5 miles. Jason picked this path because wildflowers were reported to be in bloom. They were. We encountered 16 or 17 different types of blossoms, some of them covering whole hillsides in sheaths of violet or blush.
The trail was empty until the bridge thanks to a shorter access point from the other side.The hillsides were brimming with blooming dots.
Afterward, we went to dinner at The Charleston Draper, which had recently reopened to guests. We sat in their courtyard under towering trees and twinkle lights at least 10 feet away from anyone; it was conscientiously charming. This normal outing was sprinkled with oddities like masked employees and used dishes being treated like radioactive waste, but it was enlivening to be able to celebrate in a practically standard way even in that alternate universe.
You can find anything online, including custom wrapping paper.
We spent the evening around a firepit in our backyard roasting marshmallows and spotting falling stars. It was basically a scene from a quirky but warming rom-com.
A cozy fire and a hot man? Sign me up!
Although not our usual celebration, we had a perfect day. After all, an anniversary is best spent with just two. Thanks, COVID for making togetherness inescapable.
COVID need not eradicate your own anniversary celebrations. Here are just a few ways you can commemorate your special day while maintaining social distance:
1. Lots of restaurants have created outdoor eating space. Make use of it.
2. Rent a cabin or condo in a remote location. You can get away from your house and still avoid people.
3. Enjoy al fresco dining in your own backyard.
4. Take in a drive-in movie. Many are playing old romantic favorites like Sleepless in Seattle and The Notebook.
5. Escape into nature on a hike or on a bike.
6. Take a hike and have a picnic on a deserted hillside.
7. Have a cookies and games night with homemade cookies and two-player games like Castles of Burgundy or Patchwork.
8. Prepare a delicious meal together using an online cooking class. Options include Gordon Ramsay’s Masterclass, America’s Test Kitchen, and cooking with the New York Times.
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