Into Africa Part II: Cape Town

After a 12-hour flight from Amsterdam, we arrived in South Africa at nearly midnight. My first impression of South Africa? The air smelled different, earthy and humid. It was a rejuvenating change from the winter we’d left.

all awake
Unlike the Domtoren, we didn’t climb these stairs in a semiconscious state.
getting to the Point
The views slowed our pace on the two-mile hike around Cape Point.

We only had a couple days to explore Cape Town, so we packed in the sights tightly. We spent our first day with a group of Jason’s coworkers and their spouses exploring the Cape of Good Hope and Simon’s Town. At the Cape of Good Hope, Africa’s most southwestern spot, we stood on the edge of the continent surrounded by craggy splendor. We hiked to Cape Point, a dramatic cliff topped by the Cape Point Lighthouse and cuffed by the ocean. While the area was crowded with tourists, the agitated water and battered slopes still gave a sense of the tempestuousness of this wild headland. The wily chacma baboons thieving items from sightseers added another layer of unpredictability to the setting.

It's a sign!
Since we had just come from Amsterdam, we found this signpost at the Cape Point Lighthouse amusing.

In Simon’s Town, we visited the 2,000 African penguins that call Boulders Beach home. Yes, Africa has penguins; they are probably called African penguins for that reason. I didn’t let those waddling waiters have all the fun at Boulders. I splashed into the Indian Ocean in that sheltered cove too. Well, I thought I did. As it turns out, the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet without much fanfare at Cape Aghulas not Cape Point. Most of the Cape Town locals don’t even have that straight. Yup, I just waded unwittingly into the exotic Atlantic.

Cape Point Lighthouse
The Cape Point Lighthouse rests precariously on a cliff about 800 feet above the turbulent ocean.
Cape Point
Cape Point may not technically be the southernmost tip of Africa, but it certainly felt that way.

The next day, a group of the spouses sought the top of Table Mountain while our significant others put in some work hours. Table Mountain is an oddity among peaks. Its nearly-flat crest extends for two miles. It forms an unmistakable backdrop to Cape Town’s cityscape.

Boulders' birds
African penguins only live in southern Africa and are endangered.
a fair-weather fowl
The thought of penguins doesn’t usually conjure up images of Africa, but perhaps it should.
a bogus ass
The African penguin is also called the jackass penguin due to its habit of braying.

That morning was gloriously clear, so the view-hungry tourists swarmed the Table. We waited about 45 minutes in the queue for the tram to the top. Although I expected Table Mountain to be level, I was surprised by how far its flatness stretched. Its summit wasn’t just scenic though, it was uncomfortably warm. My feet decided this heat was their cue to expand further. Did I mention that my feet swelled up as soon as I crossed into the Southern Hemisphere? They remained bloated until they arrived back on their own side of the planet. Then, they magically deflated. Is that a regular thing? Or are my feet just melodramatic homebodies?

on Table Mountain
Table Mountain rises 3,500 feet above the peninsula.

After Table Mountain, we had just enough time before dinner to see a bit of the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and stop in the Bo-Kaap district. The Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is widely regarded as one of the best in the world, not only because Table Mountain cooperatively postures behind it but also because it features the wealth of plants unique to the Western Cape. Our pause in Bo-Kaap was brief but gave us time to snap some vibrant shots. Bo-Kaap’s colorful streets seemed a little worn between the weight of visitors and the hardships of residents.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden
The Western Cape is home to over 2,200 indigenous species. The Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is a beautiful place to appreciate some of these.

Thus, our quick interlude in Cape Town ended. The following day, we were off to Sabi Sand Game Reserve by way of a couple flights and one propeller. I will cover that surreal experience next week.

Into Africa Part I: Utrecht

Like most people, I have a list of places I’d like to travel to in this wide world. An African safari has never been on that buckle list. Yet, somehow, on Valentine’s Day, Jason and I found ourselves in route to South Africa. How did this happen? How do you find yourself on the way to Africa without long-term intentions to do so? Here’s the recount of our unanticipated journey.

The company Jason works for bought another company with a facility in Cape Town a year or so ago. Jason needed to go to this Cape Town office, along with some of his coworkers. So, a trip to Cape Town with a safari extension in the not-too-far-away Sabi Sand Game Reserve was offered up to us like a golden lion on a plate. We took it; golden lions are shiny.

Happy Valentine's Day!
Spending Valentine’s Day on a plane made the holiday nearly invisible, but it reappeared in our hotel room in Amsterdam.

When undertaking an expected or unexpected safari, planning is paramount and a little overwhelming. You’ll have to get shot up with vaccines and loaded with malaria pills. The green and khaki items in your closet will multiply faster than leprechauns on St. Paddy’s Day. Despite a preparation to-do list we added lines to on a daily basis in the month leading up to our trip, 104 lines in all, we found ourselves up to 3:00 AM the night before our flight packing and arranging. Yes, we started our trip exhausted and just kept adding layers of fatigue in way of jet lag, overnight flights, early game drives, etc.

Miffy's Traffic Light
Miffy is kind of like a Dutch Hello Kitty. In Utrecht, she has her own traffic light and rainbow crosswalk.

South Africa is about as “other side of the world” as you can get. It certainly felt like that when we were voyaging there. Within 11 days of travel, we packed seven flights, over 30 hours in airports, and 53 hours in the air. Crisscrossing 18 time zones messes with your internal clock in a big way. We were fortunate to get a 24-hour respite in Amsterdam both directions. Our day in the Netherlands on our outgoing journey is the focus of this week’s post.

Although we never expected it to be the case, we’ve been to Amsterdam enough times in recent years that it feels familiar. Hence, we thought it would be an excellent place to dodge planes without being drained further, and it was indeed.

Utrecht's Domtoren
Utrecht’s Domtoren is the highest church tower in the Netherlands. We stepped to its historic top.

We’ve learned from experience that when you are trying to force yourself to stay awake for 27+ hours in an effort to acclimate to a new time zone, museums are a poor choice of activity. Thus, we bypassed the many fantastic museums in Amsterdam and took a train to the town of Utrecht, the fourth-happiest city in the world according to BBC Travel. Utrecht was founded by Romans in AD 47, but it’s a lot livelier than most 1,972-year-olds. We liked its relaxed yet cultured vibe. St. Martin’s Cathedral, tasty fish and chips, and quaint medieval architecture all kept our senses engaged and our eyes open. Before returning to Amsterdam, we climbed to the top of the Domtoren, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands with 465 steps. Both Jason and I became dizzy and had difficulties staying conscious as we spiraled up the stairs of this belfry. In retrospect, maybe it was a poor choice of activity for the severely jet lagged too.

canal cafes
Utrecht is unique among canal cities in that wharf terraces were added to many of its waterways almost a thousand years ago. Now, they serve as cute cafes and shops.

Amsterdam’s canals, oddly enough, seem customary and comfortable to us now. That friendly city, and its accessible neighbors, was the perfect stop on the way to an exotic continent. Next week, I will explore our explorations in Cape Town, the subsequent stop in our global escapades.

Being Flakey

Sometime after it stops snowing each year, I recount all our snowboarding escapades. But did it ever start snowing last season? Now, with the 130 inches of the 2018-2019 season softening the disappointment of 2017-2018, let us remember the pitiful powder that came before.

Waiting for snow during Utah’s last ski season was like waiting for a snail to complete an Ironman. Jason and I hit the slopes for the first time near the end of January on a base of only 59 inches. Pathetic. A storm had just dropped about 10 inches on Brighton, so we took advantage of those meager flecks. It hadn’t snowed enough to bring in the crowds, but it was enough powder to make the mountain agreeable.

perfectly acceptable
Our second day on the slopes was entirely adequate.

We didn’t go out in February. There were a couple decent storms during that month, but it was always ungodly windy during and after them. When we went again in mid-March the base depth was only 68 inches. Although there was no new fluff, the pleasant 40-something weather pulled in the snow-starved crowds. We had to vulture to find a parking spot in Brighton’s lot. The snow was peppy despite being ancient; it was forgiving and fast.

lift drench
It’s a strange sensation having streams of frigid water run down your snow pants and pool in your boots.

Near the beginning of April, we ventured to Brighton again. Even though we went on a Saturday, the resort was the deadest we’ve ever seen it. The chair lifts were mostly empty. Why you ask? Rain. Not just a few drops here and there but a complete downpour that didn’t let up for hours. The showers only transformed into flakes above about 10,0000 feet, close to the top of the mountain. We boarded approximately an hour and 45 minutes, our shortest stay on the slopes ever. We got drenched in that little span of time. Our gloves were so soaked on the inside that they felt like dumbbells. They had to be dried out using hair dryers over a series of days. We had rivulets streaming down our legs into our boots and finished with sopping crotches. The rain-topped snow behaved odd. It was slow and sticky in spots at the top and extremely slushy at the bottom. The ground made slurping noises as we slid across it like your annoying coworker probing for the last dribbles of his Big Gulp. The bizarreness of the situation gave us a good laugh though, and we loved having the mountain all to ourselves.

A snow crow?
Jason called this pose the “soggy scarecrow.”

The last day we boarded was the closing day of the season. We have to get at least one good day of spring boarding in every year, and this was it. The weather was perfect, in the mid-50s with plenty of sunshine. The parking lot was completely full, but the slopes didn’t have many people on them. Party in the parking lot? Around 3:30, half an hour before closing, the Snake Creek lift lines expanded more than we have ever seen, but no one was on the runs. Apparently, all those folks were trying to reach some celebration at the top. I was trying to reach some snow at the top. It was a nice day to end the season on.

heaps of sunshine
Heaps of snow can be replaced by heaps of sunshine in the recipe for a delicious boarding day.

Chione was displeased by our sporadic visits to her wintery shrine during the 2017-2018 season. Only going boarding four times is shameful and the least amount we’ve done in probably a decade. Fortunately, the current season has got the powder power that 2017-2018 lacked. I will cover that another time, hopefully less than a year from now.