Just Joshing You Part II

Although our stay in Zion was meant to break up the drive to Joshua Tree, it didn’t break it up enough. Please tell me we are there!

the Joshua Tree
The Joshua Tree was once called “the most repulsive tree in the vegetable kingdom.” Luckily, opinions about this member of the agave family have shifted.

Jason and I arrived at our rented home in the town of Joshua Tree after dark, so we had no idea what the terrain surrounding us looked like. The next morning, I woke up just after sunrise astonished by the bouldered landscape and the four coyotes wandering in the backyard. It was a magical preamble to the next segment of our trip.

discarded relics
Vehicles abandoned long ago can be found at random along what used to be the area’s roads.
Wonderland Ranch
The Ohlson family occupied this structure for an unknown period of time and then deserted it for an unknown reason.

The weather that first day was 65 degrees and perfect for squishing in three hikes. Joined by some welcomed relatives, we did the Hidden Valley and Barker Dam Loops, a sum of 2.3 miles. We also wandered out to the Wall Street Mill, which added another 2.2 miles to our daily trekking total.

the Wall Street Mill
The Wall Street Mill opened in 1933 and crushed gold ore for three decades. A remarkable amount of its machinery remains preserved.
the Worth Bagley Marker
The original Worth Bagley Marker was vandalized in 2014 and is now in the park’s museum. This to-scale replica stands in its place.

Even after reading an entire book about Joshua Tree, Jason and I were still surprised by the quantity, height, and shape of its numerous granite piles. However, the park’s jumbled geology is just one facet of its fascinating past; its human story is also warped and riveting. For instance, Hidden Valley, peaceful and stunning, was once used by notorious cattle thieves to hide their nabbed steers. And the Wall Street Mill? While the mill is on the National Registry of Historic Places due to its historic significance, it isn’t the only significant thing one comes across in its vicinity. Along its route, you pass several rusty antique vehicles. Then, you skirt a blushing, crumbling building called the Ohlson House or Wonderland Ranch. Incidentally, no one knows why this home was built at this location or why the constructors abandoned it. Minutes later, you encounter a marker erected by Bill Keys, the owner of the Wall Street Mill, at the spot where he shot Worth Bagley. This marker states, “Here is where Worth Bagly bit the dust at the hand of W. F. Keys, May 11, 1943.” Curiously, Bill Keys himself created this memento promptly after he was released from jail for killing Worth Bagley. Yes, Joshua Tree’s history is full of gun fights, cattle robberies, mine disputes (which often led to gun fights), and old-fashioned mob manhunts. Its past is about as wild as the Wild West got.

climbing Ryan
The trail up Ryan Mountain only climbs 977 feet to hit its 5,457-foot summit.

The next morning, we were keen on conquering Ryan Mountain before a blustery storm brought gusts between 20-40 mph, and the daily crowds also gusted. Since Ryan Mountain is one of the most popular hikes in Joshua Tree, we started climbing at 8:30 in hopes of achieving both maximum wind and people reduction… and getting a parking spot. We saw few people during our ascent, less than we were expecting. The gods of hiking a well-liked mountain without encountering a horde were certainly with us.

the top and bottom or Ryan
The Ryan in our group tried to do a dramatic jump at the top of Ryan Mountain. This was the result.
Ryan Mountain
Ryan Mountain was named after a family that once operated a ranch nearby.

With the predicted blasts considered, we decided to spend the rest of the day driving and stopping rather than hiking and whooshing. Those forecasted breezes never manifested, for the second time on our trip, but our drive was worthwhile regardless. Skull Rock, a stone that looks much like a skull from certain angles, was our first stop. Although Skull Rock was cool, the mess of disorderly boulders surrounding it were more interesting.

Skull Rock
Skull Rock’s eye sockets were created by tafoni.

After Skull Rock, we continued to the Cholla Cactus Garden, a sharp patch of misshapen plants growing densely in a mysterious pocket. These cacti proved more intriguing than anticipated, making this my favorite picture spot of the whole trip.

mangled sentries
Giant, lopsided boulders surround Skull Rock.

Our last day in Joshua Tree, we hiked the Maze Trail, a 4.7-mile loop through bulky stones, sandy washes, and unusual flora… aka typical Joshua Tree terrain. This trail offers a variety of routes via adjoining loops. We just did the basic; it didn’t feel basic.

Sonoran citizens
Joshua Tree contains both Sonoran and Mojave Desert. Its chollas are found in the Sonoran section.
sharp fighters
Chollas are incredible survivors and are able to handle temperatures up to 138 degrees F.

It should be mentioned that hiking in Joshua Tree is more like walking. If you like the visuals attained through hiking but not the work involved, Joshua Tree may be your kind of place. With the exception of Ryan Mountain, all the treks we did were nearly flat. Unless you count the boulder pile we scrambled up just because- piles aren’t flat. Yes, we decided to climb the mountain of colossal rocks stacked behind the home we rented. Ascending those stones proved exciting and slightly unnerving. There wasn’t the potential of death in route, but a maiming seemed possible. We moved carefully though and only had one falling-into-a-cactus incident.

exposed cracks
Joshua Tree’s strange granite formations were created by weathering below the earth’s surface.

The morning of our departure, we awoke to two or three inches of snow. Barbed cacti covered in fluffy blankets were an uncanny sight. These plants could visibly be seen swelling as they sucked up the available moisture.

the Maze
What is normal for Joshua Tree isn’t normal anywhere else.

Just as it had begun, our time in Joshua Tree ended with a magical morning. Our getaway perfectly counteracted the blues generated by chilly air and a spreading plague. How could a warm retreat to a resilient environment full of misshapen grace provide anything less?

flake and spike
It’s not often you wake up to a scene like this in the desert.

On a side note, the town of Joshua Tree is small and a bit odd. I couldn’t quite get a sense of its flavor, but I tasted as much of it as I could. We sampled foods from Boo’s Organic Oven, Crossroads Café, Natural Sisters Café, Sam’s Indian Food & Pizza, and Pie for the People! These were all excellent.

Just Joshing You Part I

There comes a time in every pandemic, or maybe 10 times, when you need to get out of the house. In January, Jason and I reached another one of those gotta-get-out moments. Luckily, we already had a plan to get out to two national parks, one of which we had never visited. Here’s how our indispensable travels to the Joshua Tree and Zion National Parks led to the greatest possible happiness one can receive from roaming a couple national parks during winter in the middle of a pandemic.

observing The Watchman
The Watchman looks out 2,600 feet from the base of Zion Canyon.

While Joshua Tree National Park, a new location for us, was the main focus of our trip, we thought we might as well break up our long drive with a couple nights in Zion National Park. It was our first time in Zion in January, so we weren’t sure what to expect… until the weather forecast told us we should expect bad things. The wind was supposed to remain an unsettled 20-22 mph during our stay. Determined hikers + strong gusts + temperatures in the low forties = an infallible method for making rambling popsicles. Fortunately, we didn’t become an ingredient in that recipe thanks to a slide.

Lower Emerald Pool
The water sprinkling over Lower Emerald Pool’s alcove was barely a trickle.

We hiked the Sand Bench Loop, which is 3.6 miles long starting from The Court of the Patriarchs and meanders on top of a massive 2,000-year-old landslide. We encountered virtually no breeze for most of our trek, even though the wind was whizzing outside Zion Canyon. Goodbye 20-22 mph; hello blocking rocks strategically placed 250 million years ago! Apparently, this trail doesn’t get much love except from those taking it on horseback, but we thought the views of The Patriarchs, the rock formations across the canyon, and the valley below The Watchman were striking. Also, we only saw five or six groups during our whole trek, and nothing makes an outlook more appealing than a lack of people.

the Grafton schoolhouse
Grafton’s schoolhouse was built in 1886 and also served as a church.

Afterward, we had just enough daylight, or nearly enough, to hike to the Lower Emerald Pool, which is an easy stroll at just over a mile. This trail had recently reopened after a year-long closure to perform some routine repairs; floods and rainstorms regularly damage this swath of Zion. While this path had more occupants than Sand Bench, compared to its usual masses, it was practically deserted.

the Alonzo H. Russell home
With a backdrop like that, it’s easy to see why Grafton is the most photographed ghost town in the West.

On our way out of the area the next day, we stopped at Grafton, a nearby ghost town. It was settled in 1847 and deserted in 1945. Like its inhabitants, we thought we could make this a quick stop… a few hours later we finally made it back on the road. Please note, I am not responsible for the seductive and engrossing nature of historical information.

Grafton Cemetery
Grafton Cemetery, the final resting place of up to 84 of its townsfolk, tells the story of a challenging existence. In 1866, 13 residents died, almost 10% of the settlement’s population, due to diphtheria, conflicts with Natives, and a broken tree swing.

Next week, or sometime thereafter, I will divulge the details of the second part of our journey. It boulder be good!

A Standard Trip

We visited Moab last fall after being absent from its vermillion curves for a year. I’m sorry Moab! We still love you. I hate to offer excuses, but there’s been this whole COVID thing…

Delicate Arch
Delicate Arch stands resolute 52 feet above a swirling sandstone pan.

This trip was all about showing off some of Moab’s standards to my sister’s family, none of whom had been to Moab before. Amazing newcomers in Moab is as simple as walking them outside, so Jason and I can’t take much credit for our inevitable impress success.

beneath the bunches
Although Delicate Arch is probably the most popular hike in the Moab area, we successfully descended below its crowds.

With the world warming up, November didn’t feel like November in Moab. The only giveaway of the season was the lack of light. How are you supposed to see everything you want to with a 5:30 cutoff? Come on Mother Nature, let’s be reasonable.

Pine Tree Arch
Pine Tree Arch is a chunky hole framing a small tree.
Landscape Arch
At 300 feet, Landscape Arch is the longest arch in North America, but it is in no danger of being the widest with a girth of only six feet at its narrowest section.

We spent our first day in Arches National Park. After completing the hike to Delicate Arch, a Moab essential, we covered about three miles in the Devils Garden to see Landscape, Navajo, Tunnel, Pine Tree, and Partition Arch. We navigated most of our return route in darkness, including a tricky fin. Despite our vision deficiency, the adventure was well received by our juvenile companions.

fun with fins
Fins form arches and create fun.

Some of the kids requested a ramble on the Fisher Towers Trail, a wish we happily accommodated the next day. The Fisher Towers are a collection of channeled sandstone spires frosted by layers of burgundy mud. The largest of these, The Titan, is believed to be the tallest free-standing natural tower in the United States at 900 feet. Those pillars aren’t the only fascinating rock formations along this 4.5-mile route though. Bulbous hoodoos seem to mushroom out of the sand, and the final viewpoint overlooks a valley inhabited by a jumble of warped stone figures. Although the weather was more pleasant than we had a right to expect, the wind began accelerating in a chaotic manner near the end of our journey. Outbursts sent fistfuls of dirt into our faces and down our shirts. Our ears and pockets were full of grit by the time we reached the trailhead.

sand icing
The Fisher Towers are iced with dripping mud.

The following day, we visited Moab Giants, a fun dinosaur park and museum near town. Moab Giants focuses on the ancient creatures who once roamed the area with an emphasis on their tracks. On Moab Giant’s Dinosaur Trail, over 100 full-sized replicas can be viewed along with footprint information. The educational and photographical opportunities are plentiful, and we enjoyed both equally.

little dots, normal people
Tall towers. Normal-sized people.
towers transformed
The Fisher Towers undergo transformations from every angle.

Before heading home, we detoured to the Island in the Sky portion of Canyonlands National Park. Between the relentless wind and 45 degrees, Canyonlands was barely tolerable with abundant jackets. Yup, just like that, late fall was back. We hiked to Mesa Arch, a trail short enough to be doable in the cold, and stopped at overlooks of Shafer Canyon and the Grand View Point.

perfectly pocked
Cratered characters gather at the feet of Fisher Towers.
finishing Fisher
The Fisher Towers Trail ends perched above Onion Creek with miles of Southwest expanse beyond.

Although we hiked about 12 miles during our stay, fitness did not follow. The food available in Moab makes the exercise attained inconsequential. Between South African fare from Hidden Cuisine, drunken noodles from Thai Bella, donuts from Doughbird, breakfast delights from Love Muffin, and quesadillas from the Quesadilla Mobilla, we were well fed. We’ll just leave it at that.

deadly displays of affection
That’s one way to embrace death.
a rex requirement
Fake dinosaurs- so hot right now.

How did our young cohorts do with all this adventuring? It took our group much longer to finish each undertaking than expected, but our sluggish spirits remained exuberant. If something takes twice as long, it means you enjoyed it twice as much, right? How did Moab do? It seemed more crowded than normal for November. Maybe others have discovered my November trick. (Dang it!) Or maybe COVID has altered vacation habits.

a grand view
Canyonlands is layer upon layer of plateau and plunge.

Moab, I swear I’ll not stay away so long again… unless another pandemic hits, and I have to survive on pickles and pecans while only communicating with the outside world through toilet paper signals. I guarantee nothing in that case. After all, I wouldn’t want to make any two-ply promises.