Through Hell’s Gate and Back Again

Moab is a place unlike any other. Despite the dozens of times we’ve traveled to its crimson outcroppings, Jason and I are still enamored by its resilient magnificence. We took a monumental escape to that enigmatic countryside last fall, as we do every autumn. Hidden art, architecture, and arches abounded, along with a little vengeance.

Sipapu Bridge
Sipapu Bridge is solid yet elegant.

On this trip, we decided to seek out Natural Bridges National Monument. Natural Bridges is two hours south of Moab, far enough away that we never realized it was that close. Better now than never.

Horse Collar Ruin
Horse Collar Ruin is so named because the openings on these two structures look like horse collars.
ruins in White
Horse Collar Ruin includes a number of structures camouflaged under the niches of White Canyon.

In Natural Bridges, we decided to hike the 5.6-mile loop that twists through the Cedar Mesa sandstone cliffs in White Canyon to Sipapu and Kachina Bridges. What a terrific trek! The canyon was peaceful and vibrant, filled with gilded sunshine filtered through golden leaves and reflected off bright canyon walls.

Kachina Bridge
Kachina Bridge trades refinement for strength.

Sipapu Bridge, the second-largest natural bridge in the United States, was the first span we encountered on our path. Ladders, handrails, and staircases guided us to this remarkable 268-foot arc. After we passed its worn bow, we didn’t see another human being until we emerged from the canyon miles later. That’s my kind of hike!

Owachomo Bridge
We made it to Owachomo as the sky was darkening from blue to black.

Between Sipapu and Kachina, we nearly missed our favorite part of our trek. Horse Collar Ruin, a seven-hundred-year-old group of buildings constructed by the Ancestral Puebloan, was a highlight of the day. Jason went on a side trail looking for the ruin in the area we thought it was probably located and came back shaking his head. He had, in fact, been gazing right at it, but it blended into the background quite effectively, as its builders intended. Luckily, I noticed one of its stone structures thanks to both happenstance and my attention to detail. When seeking Horse Collar Ruin on your own hike, be aware that there isn’t a sign directing you to it. You will have to pay careful attention to the canyon ledges to find these fascinating edifices.

beautiful vengeance
It’s not just the terrain that takes your breath away on Hell’s Revenge. The views do that too.

Kachina Bridge, our last stop in route, was a chunky contrast to Sipapu. Its 44-feet girth is bulky and rough. Maybe it just needs the seasoning of another 30,000 years in nature’s finishing school.

Pinto Arch
Thousands of arches hang in the area surrounding Moab, each of them worn exquisitely.
a different bean scene
Change your perspective and an arch looks completely different.

By the time we completed our loop through Sipapu and Kachina, the sun had set in a moonless sky, and blackness was rushing in to fill the void. Yet, we still set out on the short path to Owachomo Bridge, determined to see the last span in the monument. The bridge’s slender shape was impressive silhouetted against the deepening heavens. Good thing we lack the common sense to stop hiking when night falls.

tunneling to Jeep Arch
The trail to Jeep Arch begins in an unusual fashion, through a metal tunnel about 200 feet long.

The next day, we scheduled an activity that is typical for Moab but atypical for us in Moab: jeeping. Robert Mick, son of legendary Dan Mick, took us on Hell’s Revenge. Vengeance is sweet! Hell’s Revenge starts out intimidating with the aptly-named Intimidator, a thin fin of sandstone that doesn’t look fit for a vehicle. The rest of the trail keeps the adrenaline pumping, the eyes popping, and the giggles erupting. Robert did some crazy stuff I would never, ever, ever have tried. Not only did we ride along the Abyss and Black Hole, we also took the optional plunge into Hell’s Gate. Hell’s Gate is nearly vertical and skewed in every direction. It looks completely unpassable. One guy watching us said, “I just pooped my pants” as we crested over the last of the Gate’s twisted inclines.

a marvelous monolith
The route to Jeep Arch is just as marvelous as the final destination.

After jeeping, we hiked to Pinto Arch. Never heard of Pinto Arch? How about Corona Arch? Yes? Pinto Arch can be reached by taking an offshoot from the Corona Arch Trail. Even with the many times we’ve been to Moab and the multiple times we’ve hiked to Corona Arch, we didn’t realize Pinto was right there. It is visible from Corona’s path if you know where to look. It reminded me of a squatter and portlier relative of Bowtie Arch. We hit it just around sunset, which made for some great photography.

Jeep Arch
Jeep Arch has a boxier opening than most.

Our last day in Moab, we hiked to Jeep Arch. Online reviews said this trail was super hard to follow and getting lost was practically guaranteed. We did not think that was the case at all. Tracking cairns was necessary in many spots as the path wound over stretches of rock, but these sections were well marked. The route was scenic and the arch’s jagged opening curious. If you undertake this hike, the left side of the loop is the better side. The surroundings are prettier and afford a finer perspective of the arch. It took us about three hours to complete this nearly-four-mile jaunt. Driving back from this excursion, we discovered something new. Although we’ve gone down State Route 279 many times, we never realized there are hundreds of petroglyphs along this road. If you want to find yourself similarly surprised, look for a sign on the south side of the byway near the climbing routes. The petroglyphs can be viewed from the road easily, but binoculars are nice.

279's art
We’ve passed the abundant petroglyphs along State Road 279 numerous times without realizing they were there.

After over a decade of biannual trips to Moab, that desert wonderland still holds mysteries and marvels, along with a few of Hell’s hurdles.

Pike and the Port

Jason and I took a couple vacations with my family last spring, but we thought we might as well make it an odd trio for 2018 via a fall trip to the coast of Washington. After all, everyone knows that odd numbers are more aesthetically pleasing than even ones.

The Chihuly Garden is conveniently, and strategically, located right by the Space Needle.
The Chihuly Garden is conveniently, and strategically, located right by the Space Needle.

Jason and I decided to head to Washington a day early to explore Seattle before the arrival of my family. We occupied most of that time by eating. You think I jest? I do not sir. We stayed near Pike Place Market and used that advantageous location to sample food in excess from many of Seattle’s best eateries. Our first evening, we gobbled sliders, kimchi, and wings at Chan, a Korean gastropub. Chan’s sliders are the nibbles of legend, which explains the restaurant’s ranking as #3 of the over 3,000 bistros in Seattle.

We visited the Market Theater Gum Wall not once but thrice.
We visited the Market Theater Gum Wall not once but thrice.
The remains of my chewings are now stuck to Seattle forever.
The remains of my chewings are now stuck to Seattle forever.

The next morning, we ate something called a sammy at Dahlia’s Bakery. Whatever the name, it was one of the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. We wandered around the Market and shopped a bit before chomping again. (A stomach needs a break sometime.) The Crumpet Shop supplied us with both savory and sweet crumpets for our next grub installment. Delish!

We didn't gain any time by taking a ferry out of Seattle, but we did gain this briny urban vista.
We didn’t gain any time by taking a ferry out of Seattle, but we did gain this briny urban vista.

We filled the afternoon with something other than eating, just for variety’s sake. MoPOP gave us a peek at the props of fantasy, horror, and sci-fi culture. Chihuly Garden and Glass offered colorful displays of arty culture. Finally, we did what all tourists have to do in Seattle; we rode to the top of the Space Needle. The Space Needle was remodeled in 2018 to include the only rotating glass floor in the world. From 500 feet up, “The Loupe” affords a daunting perspective of the city. I thought standing on that turning base would set off some height misgivings, but I must be tougher than a talking goat. After our little break from stuffing ourselves, we couldn’t end the evening without stuffing ourselves. Lecosho furnished the ingredients for our last porking of the day.

Ships drifting in and out of the port provided nightly entertainment from our back porch.
Ships drifting in and out of the port provided nightly entertainment from our back porch.

The next day, my sister joined us for more eating undertakings. We gobbled Greek yogurt at Ellenos (the top-rated place in the city), pickles from Britt’s Pickles, pie and breakfast sandwiches from Dahlia’s Bakery, buttery croissants and macaroons from Le Panier, doughnuts from the Daily Dozen, tea from the Perennial Tea Room, cheese from Beecher’s, and pavlova from Café Campagne. Yup, all we did was chew food… and chew gum, which we deposited on the Market Theater Gum Wall. After that consumption overload, we headed to Port Angeles to meet up with my parents.

A saturated forest separates Cape Flattery from the rest of the land.
A saturated forest separates Cape Flattery from the rest of the land.
Even the most tentative of hikers can easily travel the trail to Cape Flattery.
Even the most tentative of hikers can easily travel the trail to Cape Flattery.

The subsequent morning, our whole group went to the Makah Museum and Cape Flattery. The Makah Museum displays some interesting tribal artifacts that were preserved in a mudslide hundreds of years ago. Yup, we went from nerd culture to native culture at warp speed. Cape Flattery is the most northwestern piece of the contiguous United States. Its sculpted stacks and warped hollows serve as a singular reminder of the ocean’s endless assault.

At Cape Flattery, strings of caves and whittled sea stacks attest to the relentless persistence of the ocean.
At Cape Flattery, strings of caves and whittled sea stacks attest to the relentless persistence of the ocean.

Following that eventful day, we spent some time at Port Angeles’ tiny farmers market before heading to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park. Hurricane Ridge is jagged and windy, a remarkable contrast from the soggy sections of the park. We did some mild hiking to viewpoints along the Big Meadow, Cirque Rim, and High Ridge Trails with a detour to Sunrise Point. Grand views sprawled into the skyline in every direction.

From Hurricane Ridge, mythical mounts, like Unicorn Peak, are revealed in a majestic sweep.
From Hurricane Ridge, mythical mounts, like Unicorn Peak, are revealed in a majestic sweep.

That evening, we sat around a fire in the backyard eating homemade soup, discussing politics and Poldark, and watching lights shimmer like celestial orbs across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It was an iconic oceanic experience.

Battery Kinzie's two stories and 15 rooms are all yours for the exploring at Fort Worden, including the spooky parts.
Battery Kinzie’s two stories and 15 rooms are all yours for the exploring at Fort Worden, including the spooky parts.
The Point Wilson Lighthouse is still illuminating Puget Sound after more than a century.
The Point Wilson Lighthouse is still illuminating Puget Sound after more than a century.

Our final day in Washington, we headed to Port Townsend to check out the Point Wilson Lighthouse and the rest of Fort Worden Historical State Park. Although still an active beacon, the lighthouse was not open to the public that day. So, we searched for marine treasures along the beach and hidden tunnels through the park’s many bunkers. Fort Worden contains over a dozen bunkers. These military installations are pretty awesome because, apart from their stripped innards, they have been left intact, and you are free to explore them in their entirety. Secret passageways, slim ladders, narrow stairways, and mysterious ramparts are all yours to inspect. You can go bonkers for bunkers!

If you haven't taken a trip with your family in a while, you really should. Now is the perfect time to reconnect with those crazy people you call kin.
If you haven’t taken a trip with your family in a while, you really should. Now is the perfect time to reconnect with those crazy people you call kin.

What was left of the day, we spent shopping and dining in Port Townsend. For a smallish town, Port Townsend contains some surprising shops. My favorite of these was World’s End, a Victorian pirate and steampunk bazaar. We found some rare booty there.

The home we rented was situated perfectly on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
The home we rented was situated perfectly on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Our time in Washington included memorable outings and memorable people. What better to do with the fine people in your life than explore the world, feed your face, gain cultural insights, and shout frustrations at the TV while you watch Poldark? Memorable indeed.

Rocking a Birthday at Rockport

A nephew, Benson, wanted to celebrate his birthday via camping this year. He invited Jason and I to join him, along with a few members of his immediate family. So, we went on a late fall outing to Rockport Reservoir in celebration of this significant occasion. Chatting, crepe munching, hiking, and wind battling ensued.

Notwithstanding its stone-centered name, I don't believe eating rocks is a typical activity at Rockport.
Notwithstanding its stone-centered name, I don’t believe eating rocks is a typical activity at Rockport.

Although I know my nephew loves me, I also know this invitation was extended in part to take advantage of my planning skills. Finding season-appropriate campsites at superb locations is a forte of mine, one that Benson wanted to utilize. I did not fail him. I reserved us a secluded spot at Rockport Reservoir, a great low-altitude option for the cool weather.

Lounging in a hammock is always an appropriate pastime on your birthday.
Lounging in a hammock is always an appropriate pastime on your birthday.
We wandered around the reservoir and found some interesting litter.
We wandered around the reservoir and found some interesting litter.

We spent our evening hours eating tinfoil dinners and conversing around the campfire. Sometime well after midnight, we finally crawled into our tents, minivans, and hammocks for the night just as the wind was preparing to begin a gusty jig.

We got rained on in Seymour Canyon. I was the only one prepared with an umbrella... or a nice husband that was prepared with an umbrella for me.
We got rained on in Seymour Canyon. I was the only one prepared with an umbrella… or a nice husband that was prepared with an umbrella for me.

The next morning, I made birthday crepes. No nephew of mine is having yogurt for breakfast on his birthday if I can help it. Creating crepes wasn’t the easiest task given our limited supplies and the limitless breeze. They turned out perfectly edible despite the wind’s many efforts to add leaves to the batter.

Seymour Canyon's views weren't showy but its splashes of color were.
Seymour Canyon’s views weren’t showy but its splashes of color were.

After some rock skipping, we broke camp and attempted, unsuccessfully, to find a trail to a row of cliffs above the water. Following that failure, we headed to Oakley for a hike up Seymour Canyon. We only trekked 3.5 miles on this path in total, but sections were drastically steep, so not all members of our group made it the whole way. Still, we had fun and earned the giant hamburgers we consumed at Billy Blanco’s on the way home.

The wet weather and demanding terrain made some members of our group less enthusiastic about our hike.
The wet weather and demanding terrain made some members of our group less enthusiastic about our hike.

Many years from now, Benson will look back to the days when getting older felt like an accomplishment. Somewhere in that nostalgic collage, he will recollect eating birthday crepes around a campfire with some eccentric relatives. I’m proud that the crepes and eccentricity etched in that memory will be mine.