Dang Durango!

Jason and I have gotten in the habit of taking trips with my parents and sister every summer. I guess we like each other enough not to seek a cure for this habit. My sister suggested we visit Durango this year and that’s how we found ourselves there a few months later.

No frame is too antiquated for me.
No frame is too antiquated for me.

Jason and I have a different vacation style than many members of my family; we are ever ready to discover new places and try new things while others prefer just chilling. Fortunately, we rented a lovely home that made relaxation and exploration simultaneously possible.

Cliff Palace is the largest cliff dwelling in North America.
Cliff Palace is the largest cliff dwelling in North America.

The Durango fire, known officially as the 416 Fire, started just days before our excursion. It made the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad inoperable and tourist destinations like Purgatory inaccessible. We didn’t waste time crying over spilled embers though.

The tunnel Balcony House's tour crawls through is 12 feet long and 18 inches wide.
The tunnel Balcony House’s tour crawls through is 12 feet long and 18 inches wide.

Our first day in Durango, we shopped on its adorable Main Ave and squeezed in a trip to Aztec Ruins National Monument in New Mexico. Aztec Ruins, despite its name, has nothing to do with the Aztecs. (Those silly Spaniards thought every native was an Aztec.) Instead of Aztecs, Ancestral Puebloans were the monument’s former inhabitants. Over a thousand years ago, these people created this sophisticated community near the Animas River. I was surprised by the refined design elements incorporated into their structures. At Aztec, unlike other ruins, you can actually go through a number of the site’s 400+ rooms. It definitely merits the drive from Durango and is different than what you see at Mesa Verde.

Balcony House consists of 38 rooms and two kivas.
Balcony House consists of 38 rooms and two kivas.
The Balcony House tour is Mesa Verde's most extreme. A 32-foot ladder is just one of its adventurous challenges.
The Balcony House tour is Mesa Verde’s most extreme. A 32-foot ladder is just one of its adventurous challenges.

No trip to Durango would be complete without investigating Mesa Verde National Park. We spent a day there; we could have easily spent a couple more. We did the Cliff Palace and Balcony House tours. Cliff Palace was physically difficult for some members of our group and Balcony House was a heights challenge for others; I’m A-OK with adrenaline spikes and muscle contractions when timeless curiosities are involved. We also drove along the Mesa Top Loop to sift through hundreds of years of the Ancestral Pueblo civilization’s evolving architecture.

We watched lightning flash a tantrum above Spruce Tree House's quiet alcove.
We watched lightning flash a tantrum above Spruce Tree House’s quiet alcove.

After our packed day in Mesa Verde, some members of our group needed a breather. That breather came in the form of escaping from a room at Conundrum, painting nails, and binge-watching Stranger Things.

Silliness is contagious.
Silliness is contagious.

Our last day in Durango began with a hike in the San Juan Mountains on the Colorado Trail. The Colorado Trail crosses 500 miles of the state’s rugged terrain. We took it long enough to cross the Junction Creek bridge, about 5.5 miles. It was a bit muggy that morning, but the creek provided some toe-dipping diversions.

You can never have too much mountain.
You can never have too much mountain.

Although the ride home would have been wearing enough on its own, Jason and I made several not-entirely-on the-way stops in route that extended our travel time further and resulted in a return after 2:00 AM. We checked out Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, a stretching preserve that contains the highest concentration of archeological sites in the U.S. Over 6,000 have been recorded within its borders and a total of over 30,000 has been estimated. We visited its Anasazi Heritage Center, along with the Dominguez, Escalante, and Lowry Pueblos. Lowry Pueblo was our favorite of these. On Lowry’s windy plateau, we ate a peaceful picnic of salsa and chips while the stones of a remote civilization hummed a quiet history.

A two-mile walk around Little Ruin Canyon reveals many intricate structures like Hovenweep Castle.
A two-mile walk around Little Ruin Canyon reveals many intricate structures like Hovenweep Castle.

Our last stop was Hovenweep National Monument. Although a bit isolated, Hovenweep was both a curious and astonishing marvel! There, tall towers of remarkable complexity pack the rim of a small canyon like a prehistoric city block. These structures look almost medieval with their turrets and defensive positions along the ravine’s brim. Many were constructed so close to the canyon’s cliffs that chunks of them have crumbled into that gully over time.

Most of the structures in Hovenweep's Little Ruin Canyon were constructed in precarious spots along its edge. Overtime, many have lost pieces to the valley floor.
Most of the structures in Hovenweep’s Little Ruin Canyon were constructed in precarious spots along its edge. Overtime, many have lost pieces to the valley floor.

Durango was a historic trip with many historic moments. We witnessed the remains of some remarkable cultures, got my sister hooked on Stranger Things, and got my mom to play a board game. (Say what?) We also got a hint of the power behind the 416 Fire as smoke infiltrated the air and ash drifted down on our heads. Dang Durango!

Escalante and the Gulch

Ever since Jason and I explored Escalante last year, we’ve been eager to hike through Coyote Gulch, which is located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. I convinced a surprisingly-large share of my family to join us for a journey into that scenic gully this spring.

We used ropes to get into Coyote Gulch but not harnesses.
We used ropes to get into Coyote Gulch but not harnesses.

Coyote Gulch is a slim 25-mile canyon with walls up to 900 feet high that eventually unites with the Escalante River as it flows toward Lake Powell. Coyote Gulch’s verdant ribbon of cottonwoods and willows is hidden beneath scorched sandstone cliffs; the presence of desert pixies and imps feels almost certain amongst its secret streams and curious alcoves.

Jacob Hamblin Arch is just one of the many marvels concealed inside Coyote Gulch.
Jacob Hamblin Arch is just one of the many marvels concealed inside Coyote Gulch.

My family was spread out between Escalante’s limited hotels, cabins, yurts, and camping spots as we prepared for our trek. Jason and I stayed at Escalante Yurts again because we adore that place. Out of the sixteen family members that came to Escalante, fourteen convened early the morning of our hike ready, or not so ready, to commence our adventure.

Coyote Gulch contains strange and wonderful alcoves twisted by eons of water flow.
Coyote Gulch contains strange and wonderful alcoves twisted by eons of water flow.

There are multiple spots from which to enter Coyote Gulch. Since we were not camping overnight, we opted to start at Fortymile Ridge and take the Sneaker Route. The Sneaker Route dives over 100 feet into the canyon at about a 45-degree angle in a location close to Jacob Hamblin Arch and other notable features. Ropes are not essential for this class-5 drop, but they are essential for those that would prefer not to tumble down what is essentially a cliff. We used ropes.

"Small" and "insignificant" both apply here.
“Small” and “insignificant” both apply here.

Once inside Coyote Gulch, we wandered to both Jacob Hamblin Arch and Coyote Natural Bridge. Then, we split up, and some of us pursued ancient ruins while the rest of us searched for a pictograph panel, the Black Lagoon, and various waterfalls. Jason and I were among the three members of the latter group. We didn’t find any lagoons, black or otherwise, but we had a great time investigating.

A stream curves through Coyote Natural Bridge's graceful mouth.
A stream curves through Coyote Natural Bridge’s graceful mouth.

After hiking ten miles, many of those through a few inches of water, the blisters on our feet were as inevitable as the boisterous retellings of our victory. Yet, all our trekkers had a splendid time, including the ten-year-old.

I found it much easier to ascend our sneaky route than descend it.
I found it much easier to ascend our sneaky route than descend it.

The next day, Jason and I hiked through Escalante Petrified Forest State Park with my sister’s family. The Trail of Sleeping Rainbows was just as cool and colorful as we remembered and fun to share with our enthusiastic nieces and nephews.

The inhabitants of Escalante's petrified forest should have decayed and disappeared over 100 million years ago. Instead, they were transformed into rock rainbows.
The inhabitants of Escalante’s petrified forest should have decayed and disappeared over 100 million years ago. Instead, they were transformed into rock rainbows.

We departed ways with my sister after that and did two short hikes amidst lightening-streaked skies and cloudbursts. The first went past some ancient granaries and only required a little over half a mile of walking. The second, the 100 Hands Pictograph Trail, led to four petroglyph and pictograph sites, 100 Hands being the most well-known of these.

This ancient granary is right off Scenic Byway 12, camouflaged on a cliff face.
This ancient granary is right off Scenic Byway 12, camouflaged on a cliff face.

For those searching for the petroglyphs and pictographs sites along the 100 Hands Trail, the 100 Hands Panel can be found high on a sandstone wall just west of the Bighorn Panel. You should see it within a few minutes of passing Bighorn; it’s easy to miss. The Shaman and the Hunter Panel can be reached by taking the left spur when the trail hits a T. The right spur goes to an alcove where more petroglyphs can be seen; these ones, however, are fairly faint.

The Shaman and the Hunter Panel's elevation protects it from the laziest of vandals.
The Shaman and the Hunter Panel’s elevation protects it from the laziest of vandals.

On the way home, we didn’t miss out on the chance to eat at Hell’s Backbone Grill in Boulder. If you are passing through Boulder, I highly recommend stopping at this joint. Don’t let the town’s scant 225 residents mislead you, Hell’s Backbone Grill is consistently rated one of the best restaurants in the state or THE best. Hello brisket and creamy habanero enchiladas! Yum!

The purpose of these handprints, painted a millennium ago, remains unknown.
The purpose of these handprints, painted a millennium ago, remains unknown.

Exploring Coyote Gulch would have been ample reason for us to amble down to Escalante. The petrified wood and pictographed stone we encountered were just ancient icing on the cake, but you don’t have to take my word for it.

Big Sur? Sure

It was Jason’s turn to plan our anniversary outings this year. He asked if I was up for going to Big Sur, and I said sure, even though I didn’t know exactly where that was. Here’s how our explorations of that vaguely-defined section of California’s coast materialized.

We stayed at the Sanctuary in Marina, which is right on a blustery but beautiful beach.
We stayed at the Sanctuary in Marina, which is right on a blustery but beautiful beach.

First thing is first. What is Big Sur? A town? A park? A VIP? No, it is the slice of the California shoreline roughly between Carmel and San Simeon. It is rocky, dramatic, and distinctly remarkable despite its imprecise boundaries.

Our first day in California, our anniversary, we spent walking along Monterey’s Cannery Row, a cute touristy area lined with little shops and lapping tides. We ate lunch on the pier, drenched in unexpected sunshine, while the waves sent jellyfish fluttering about below us. We chuckled at the sea lions barking rowdily to one another on the Coast Guard Pier. After a walk through the succulent-covered sands of the Marina Dunes Preserve, we feasted on Mediterranean fare at Dametra Café in Carmel. Spontaneous dancing, delightful serenades, and the best Greek salad I’ve ever eaten were all part of that memorable meal.

The Bixby Creek Bridge, built in 1932, is one of the biggest single-span bridges in the world.
The Bixby Creek Bridge, built in 1932, is one of the biggest single-span bridges in the world.
Keyhole Arch, Pfeiffer Beach's most interesting feature, appears unextraordinary until viewed head on.
Keyhole Arch, Pfeiffer Beach’s most interesting feature, appears unextraordinary until viewed head on.

The next day felt big indeed as we took in Big Sur. If one were to drive nonstop from Carmel to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, which is only a portion of Big Sur, the ride would just take an hour; it took us all day. The stops along this route were plentiful and plenty distracting. We decided to start with our top priorities and see what we had time for after that. Turns out, we didn’t have time for anything after that.

We stopped at the Rocky Creek and Bixby Creek Bridges. Bixby, a 714-foot-long arched structure, is claimed to be the most photographed bridge in the United States, but how do you calculate that? It was an aesthetically-pleasing arc whatever its ranking. We ate dinner at Nepenthe Restaurant, a secluded establishment along the way, while hovering 800 feet up on a seaside cliff. It was gorgeous! Pfeiffer Beach was our next detour. This beach was rather unusual with its famous Keyhole Arch and purple sand. The last thing we were able to fit in before sunset was a short walk to view McWay Falls. McWay Falls is an 80-foot waterfall that splashes onto a pristine beach just beyond the reach of the surf. It sounds like the fabricated setting of some bad island romance flick, but it’s real, and it was not bad.

McWay Falls spouts right into the ocean's waiting waves.
McWay Falls spouts right into the ocean’s waiting waves.

We started the last day of our short vacation at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is often regarded as one of the top ten aquariums in the United States, a ranking it deserves. The sea otters were my fav! (No surprise there.) Three otters were in the exhibit that day: Gidget, Selka, and Rosa. The rest were off mentoring others of their species. The otters were bigger and longer than I had imagined- weighing about half of me- and they never stopped moving. Otterly adorable!

Yes, the sea otters were this adorable.
Yes, the sea otters were this adorable.

We could easily have spent a couple days gazing into the aquarium’s kelp forest and learning more about Monterey Bay’s habitats, but we were soon off to Carmel Mission, Carmel Beach, and 17-Mile Drive. 17-Mile Drive is a scenic ride through ritzy Pebble Beach and a half dozen of the fanciest golf courses ever conceived. Some of our favorite points of interest along those miles were Ghost Tree, Point Joe, and the Lone Cypress. The sea wasn’t the only thing restless on this peninsula; the air seemed rather rushed as well. Consequently, we were unusually motivated to keep many of our stops brief.

Carmel Mission was founded in 1770. Its extensive grounds are pretty and peaceful.
Carmel Mission was founded in 1770. Its extensive grounds are pretty and peaceful.
The Lone Cypress, said to be the most photographed tree in North America, has been a registered trademark of the Pebble Beach Company for a hundred years.
The Lone Cypress, said to be the most photographed tree in North America, has been a registered trademark of the Pebble Beach Company for a hundred years.

For those headed to Big Sur, however you define that area, keep in mind a couple things. The food is awesome! Make time to eat lots of it! And be prepared to be colder than you anticipate. With forecasted temperatures in the 60s to low 70s during our visit, Jason and I brought shorts and tank tops. We should have brought coats instead. Brrr! Seventy degrees isn’t very pleasant when you factor in exuberant coastal breezes and frequent fog.

The ominous twists of this Monterey cypress, bleached by years of wind and salt, begged to be photographed.
The ominous twists of this Monterey cypress, bleached by years of wind and salt, begged to be photographed.

I didn’t have any expectations of Big Sur, since I didn’t know much about it before this trip. So, to say my expectations were exceeded wouldn’t really mean anything. Instead, I’ll just say that it was a good trip full of scenic waters and tasty food. Sure, I’d go back to Big Sur.