Moab’s Peaks and Plateaus Part II

The next day we hiked the Gooseberry Trail, the most strenuous trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District. It dives 1400 feet from the top of Island in the Sky to the rim of Gooseberry Canyon, 1200 of those come in its first 0.7 miles. While this path is only 5.4 miles out-in-back, its enormous elevation change makes it relatively untraveled so we were eager to assess its rise and solitude extremes for ourselves.

A series of narrow switchbacks coiled precariously downward from the top of Island in the Sky.
A series of narrow switchbacks coiled precariously downward from the top of Island in the Sky.
The Gooseberry Trail is one of the steepest paths in any national park.
The Gooseberry Trail is one of the steepest paths in any national park.

It took us 4 hours and 40 minutes to complete the trek to Gooseberry Canyon and back; the average is 4 to 6 hours. Frankly, it was much easier than I expected. Based on website comments and Canyonlands’ pamphlets, I anticipated having to take numerous breaks just to keep my heart from going all Tommy Lee in my chest but my beater did just fine and didn’t need many pauses. However, this trail was not easier than Jason expected. Yes, my expectations are tougher than his.

The deep dip down was even more daunting than it appears here.
The deep dip down was even more daunting than it appears here.
The vibrant layers of the Kayenta and Chinle Formations splashed all around us.
The vibrant layers of the Kayenta and Chinle Formations splashed all around us.

The hardest thing about this path, in my opinion, was its fearsome heights. Gazing down from the top of the mesa, the trail looked like a skinny snake slithering on the edge of oblivion. It took some guts to tell that rising “no” inside me “no” but I shut it down slowly with one foot in front of the other.

Gooseberry Canyon falls just 100 feet from where its trail ends. What an ending!
Gooseberry Canyon falls just 100 feet from where its trail ends. What an ending!
The White Rim Road, a 4x4 trail, runs along Gooseberry Canyon for a bit so we got asked by a few confused off-roaders where the heck we came from.
The White Rim Road, a 4×4 trail, runs along Gooseberry Canyon for a bit so we got asked by a few confused off-roaders where the heck we came from.

After our initial height-shock faded, the trail really wasn’t terribly terrifying but our awe remained. Mighty views kept hitting us until Gooseberry Canyon brought a new wave of wonderment and alarm. With its 200-foot plummets, it was an intimidating and spectacular spot to eat a victory sandwich. What an amazing hike with all the heart-pounding exertion and panic one could want in a day!

I made Jason look so tough. Photography is magic.
I made Jason look so tough. Photography is magic.
Stairs eased the elevation changes on the trail's gnarliest sections.
Stairs eased the elevation changes on the trail’s gnarliest sections.

Moab was superb once again. You aren’t particularly bright if you thought I would say otherwise. Where else can you freeze your caboose in an alpine meadow and the next day, just minutes away, sport a tank top in desert rapture. It was a little sad not to have our bikes with us but we managed pretty well on two feet.

Moab’s Peaks and Plateaus Part I

Jason and I couldn’t let fall freeze into winter without taking our traditional outing to Moab. However, my semester’s relentless presentations, papers, and team projects were creating quite an impediment so we chose to go to Moab for only two days rather than our customary three. Two days of fun is better than three days of no fun. You can check my math; it adds up.

Glorious summer sunshine seemed to seep out of every aspen leaf we came across as we traveled upward.
Glorious summer sunshine seemed to seep out of every aspen leaf we came across as we traveled upward.

We decided, reluctantly, not to take our bikes with us because of our shortened stay. Instead, we settled for two day of hiking in two drastically different climates. We visited the towering peaks of the La Sal Mountains and the deep drops of Canyonlands National Park.

Gold Basin held fantastic views of Mount Tukuhnikivatz or Mount Mellenthin. Maybe Mount Peale? It was hard to figure out which peak was which.
Gold Basin held fantastic views of Mount Tukuhnikivatz or Mount Mellenthin. Maybe Mount Peale? It was hard to figure out which peak was which.

Did you know that Utah’s tallest mountains outside the Uintas are not in the Wasatch Range? Don’t lie, you didn’t know that. The La Sal Mountains, barely east of Moab, contain 12 peaks above 12,000 feet, making them Utah’s second-highest range. Not impressed? What’s it with you and your desensitization to massive mounts? Despite our many trips to Moab, we had never been to the La Sals and that just wasn’t right.

This muddy pond marked the end of our path in Gold Basin, not exactly an inspiring stop spot.
This muddy pond marked the end of our path in Gold Basin, not exactly an inspiring stop spot.

At their lower elevations, the La Sal Mountains felt uncannily familiar and foreign all at the same time with sharp hillsides made scruffy by juniper and scrub oak. At their higher altitudes, the vegetation was more of an alpine standard with patches of aspens and bristly conifers.

It wasn't easy setting my tripod up on giant slabs of stone to get this picture.
It wasn’t easy setting my tripod up on giant slabs of stone to get this picture.

We picked a perfect time to visit the La Sals… well, it would have been perfect if our eyes were the overlords of our skin. The aspens were remarkable golden, almost fluorescent, but it was a bit chilly, as in 57 to 42 degrees depending on the elevation and sun’s inclinations.

Moonlight Meadow had already succumbed to winter's dreariness but it still provided some thrilling views.
Moonlight Meadow had already succumbed to winter’s dreariness but it still provided some thrilling views.

Nippy or not, we hiked three miles out-and-back along the Cirque Lakes Trail (Gold Basin) to a silty puddle our trail guide called a lake. Hence, the best part of this trek wasn’t its terminus but its lofty views of Mt. Tukuhnikivatz, Peale, and Mellenthin.

The aspens forming this wall were the last sentinels of color that remained in Moonlight Meadow.
The aspens forming this wall were the last sentinels of color that remained in Moonlight Meadow.

Although temperatures were dropping into the low 40s as the afternoon waned, we opted to do one more hike, a short jaunt to Moonlight Meadow. Moonlight Meadow is, well, an alpine meadow. Did you see that coming? We took an easy one-mile out-and-back path to this grassy knoll. At 10,000 feet, its famous aspens had dispatched their leaves already amid winter’s incoming bluster but it was still an appealing wander. Isn’t it odd that trees go around naked at the times of the year when they could use their shady wardrobes the most?

The liquid hanging precariously in the sky all day poured down just minutes after we jumped back in our car.
The liquid hanging precariously in the sky all day poured down just minutes after we jumped back in our car.

Unfortunately, thanks to our frosty climbs, by the time we got back to Moab my body had decided it was done performing the fruitless task of keeping me warm. I was cold all night. I had to wear a t-shirt, thermal top, and hoodie just to keep the goosebumps at bay.

The following day we got goosed in a different kind of way. More on that next week.

Meanwhile in Midway…

I had to attend a conference in Midway recently for an industry group. Per his habit, Jason tagged along. We were only there for a day and a half but we still found a little time for fun on four wheels.

In the few afternoon hours we had free between my seminars and board obligations, we rented a Polaris RZR. We took this hardy vehicle on a 30-mile jaunt across backcountry dirt roads and trails that started in Wasatch Mountain State Park and twisted around to American Fork Canyon before coming back along Deer Creek Reservoir, a journey that took nearly three hours.

Impressive outlooks were frequently encountered during our drive.
Impressive outlooks were frequently encountered during our drive.

This ride contained an ideal mix of roads that bounced and scenery that struck. We crossed creeks and dodged furrows while yellowing leaves clinked their decaying percussions in a pleasing breeze.

We rode a mix of trail types.
We rode a mix of trail types.

The downside? Dirt. We were so dusty when we returned that our schnozzles were literally black. After I washed my hands a few times, they still left grimy smears on the hotel towels. (Sorry hotel!)

Jason did most of the driving because I couldn't reach the pedals comfortably.
Jason did most of the driving because I couldn’t reach the pedals comfortably.

What a quick and dirty yet enjoyable escapade. Incidentally, I would recommend a RZR ride around Midway to families and adventurers alike. The RZR felt safer than other ATVs I’ve ridden and more appropriate for all types of passengers.