A Sister Surprise Behind the Rocks

Late last year, a plan for meeting in Moab began to form. It started with my sister thinking about doing a trail race. It continued with me renting a house as her Christmas present, and then somehow it concluded with Jason and me being convinced to run the race as well. And that’s how we ended up in a familiar place with a few surprises. Read on to discover all the details you never knew you always wanted about a trip we took months ago. They are sure to have you firmly on the central portion of your seat.

After the Behind
I finished way behind the rocks.

The Behind the Rocks Ultra, the event that initiated this plot, was the first trail race Jason and I ever participated in. We signed up for the smallest distance offered, 10 miles. It turned out to be 10.67. I was not psychologically ready for 10.67. Sure, 10 miles I could do but 10.67? Come on people! The course went through terrain graced by outlooks on the La Sals and many sandstone formations, including Picture Frame Arch. The encompassing beauty was energizing and distracting but not enough to compensate for the particularly challenging uphill stretch between mile six and 7.5. My knees weren’t super into the arrangement either and thus decided to throb the last couple miles. Still, I managed to hit my goal of finishing in less than 2.5 hours at 2:25:20. Clearly, I aim high. I finished 133 out of 164. If 80% of the class gets a higher score than you, you still pass, right? Jason came through nearly 100 runners ahead of me at 1:43:09 and 34th overall. That boy has ambitions and long legs! We will not speak of how my sister did on her 18-mile course as there is no need to further emphasize my leisurely performance.

Funnel Arch
Funnel Arch is a buttress arch that spans 45 feet.
sandstone and silliness
Sisters make everything sillier, even geology.

Why sit still after running a trail race? Sure, there are the obvious reasons having to do with fatigue and all that but besides those? Jason and I hiked to Funnel Arch a couple years ago. This trail’s small section of Class 5 climbing pushed my comfort levels. So, what did we decide to do after exhausting ourselves on the Behind the Rocks Ultra? I bet you can guess. With four of us, the pushing, pulling, and blocking required to scramble this one-mile trek were easier. And, I must admit, this climb seemed to help loosen up my sore muscles. I didn’t hurt the rest of the day as much as I thought I would.

The Rectory
The Rectory is a 1000-foot-long and 200-foot-wide butte just north of Castleton Tower.
spectacular and scary
From the narrow ridge between Castleton Tower and The Rectory, Ida Gulch, Mary Jane Canyon, Parriott Mesa, and Adobe Mesa can all be viewed.

One dumb turn deserves another? The next day, we hiked to the ridge between Castleton Tower and The Rectory. Castleton Tower, also called Castle Rock, is a 400-foot monolith made of Wingate Sandstone that juts out of a 1000-foot funnel created by the Moenkopi and Chinle Formations. Its trail climbs over 1,300 feet in 1.3 miles. Undoubtedly, the best choice for a post-run activity, but, since Jason and I hadn’t done this trail for almost 10 years, it was relatively easy to ignore the complaints of our tender and tired muscles in the pursuit of breathtaking panoramas. For some of us, it was less easy to ignore the path’s intimidating drop-offs and slightly sketchy sections. My sister didn’t make it all the way to the ridge, but she got close before her shaky legs successfully pleaded their case of self-preservation. Although our movement prompted protests from my muscles, particularly at the beginning and on the downhill, I worked out my pain, and I really didn’t have many aches by the next day. Overall, it was the quickest dissipation of discomfort I’ve experienced after a race of that length. That’s right legs, I do know what is best for you, and I would never choose gorgeous scenery over your wellbeing.

cool at Castleton
Wearing matching hats is the surest way to signal your coolness to others in passing.

Just as my sister was leaving to go home, Jason and I got a surprise call from another sister saying she was passing through town. She ended up staying the night at our rental. Our niece, who was traveling with her, decided to remain in town even longer and hike with us the next day. We had a hard time selecting which trail to take her on out of all the classics in Moab. As it was supposed to be particularly blustery that day, we picked a more protected path, the 2.4-mile trail to Longbow Arch. We needn’t have worried about the wind as the temperatures hovered around 70 and felt mighty pleasant even with it.

Longbow Arch
The hike to Longbow Arch is easy, and a 60-foot span is your reward.

We always expect Moab to provide fantastic scenery, activities, and cuisine. However, we don’t usually expect it to provide extra family members. Way to go Moab! I didn’t think it possible for you to exceed our lofty expectations.

Just Joshing You Part II

Although our stay in Zion was meant to break up the drive to Joshua Tree, it didn’t break it up enough. Please tell me we are there!

the Joshua Tree
The Joshua Tree was once called “the most repulsive tree in the vegetable kingdom.” Luckily, opinions about this member of the agave family have shifted.

Jason and I arrived at our rented home in the town of Joshua Tree after dark, so we had no idea what the terrain surrounding us looked like. The next morning, I woke up just after sunrise astonished by the bouldered landscape and the four coyotes wandering in the backyard. It was a magical preamble to the next segment of our trip.

discarded relics
Vehicles abandoned long ago can be found at random along what used to be the area’s roads.
Wonderland Ranch
The Ohlson family occupied this structure for an unknown period of time and then deserted it for an unknown reason.

The weather that first day was 65 degrees and perfect for squishing in three hikes. Joined by some welcomed relatives, we did the Hidden Valley and Barker Dam Loops, a sum of 2.3 miles. We also wandered out to the Wall Street Mill, which added another 2.2 miles to our daily trekking total.

the Wall Street Mill
The Wall Street Mill opened in 1933 and crushed gold ore for three decades. A remarkable amount of its machinery remains preserved.
the Worth Bagley Marker
The original Worth Bagley Marker was vandalized in 2014 and is now in the park’s museum. This to-scale replica stands in its place.

Even after reading an entire book about Joshua Tree, Jason and I were still surprised by the quantity, height, and shape of its numerous granite piles. However, the park’s jumbled geology is just one facet of its fascinating past; its human story is also warped and riveting. For instance, Hidden Valley, peaceful and stunning, was once used by notorious cattle thieves to hide their nabbed steers. And the Wall Street Mill? While the mill is on the National Registry of Historic Places due to its historic significance, it isn’t the only significant thing one comes across in its vicinity. Along its route, you pass several rusty antique vehicles. Then, you skirt a blushing, crumbling building called the Ohlson House or Wonderland Ranch. Incidentally, no one knows why this home was built at this location or why the constructors abandoned it. Minutes later, you encounter a marker erected by Bill Keys, the owner of the Wall Street Mill, at the spot where he shot Worth Bagley. This marker states, “Here is where Worth Bagly bit the dust at the hand of W. F. Keys, May 11, 1943.” Curiously, Bill Keys himself created this memento promptly after he was released from jail for killing Worth Bagley. Yes, Joshua Tree’s history is full of gun fights, cattle robberies, mine disputes (which often led to gun fights), and old-fashioned mob manhunts. Its past is about as wild as the Wild West got.

climbing Ryan
The trail up Ryan Mountain only climbs 977 feet to hit its 5,457-foot summit.

The next morning, we were keen on conquering Ryan Mountain before a blustery storm brought gusts between 20-40 mph, and the daily crowds also gusted. Since Ryan Mountain is one of the most popular hikes in Joshua Tree, we started climbing at 8:30 in hopes of achieving both maximum wind and people reduction… and getting a parking spot. We saw few people during our ascent, less than we were expecting. The gods of hiking a well-liked mountain without encountering a horde were certainly with us.

the top and bottom or Ryan
The Ryan in our group tried to do a dramatic jump at the top of Ryan Mountain. This was the result.
Ryan Mountain
Ryan Mountain was named after a family that once operated a ranch nearby.

With the predicted blasts considered, we decided to spend the rest of the day driving and stopping rather than hiking and whooshing. Those forecasted breezes never manifested, for the second time on our trip, but our drive was worthwhile regardless. Skull Rock, a stone that looks much like a skull from certain angles, was our first stop. Although Skull Rock was cool, the mess of disorderly boulders surrounding it were more interesting.

Skull Rock
Skull Rock’s eye sockets were created by tafoni.

After Skull Rock, we continued to the Cholla Cactus Garden, a sharp patch of misshapen plants growing densely in a mysterious pocket. These cacti proved more intriguing than anticipated, making this my favorite picture spot of the whole trip.

mangled sentries
Giant, lopsided boulders surround Skull Rock.

Our last day in Joshua Tree, we hiked the Maze Trail, a 4.7-mile loop through bulky stones, sandy washes, and unusual flora… aka typical Joshua Tree terrain. This trail offers a variety of routes via adjoining loops. We just did the basic; it didn’t feel basic.

Sonoran citizens
Joshua Tree contains both Sonoran and Mojave Desert. Its chollas are found in the Sonoran section.
sharp fighters
Chollas are incredible survivors and are able to handle temperatures up to 138 degrees F.

It should be mentioned that hiking in Joshua Tree is more like walking. If you like the visuals attained through hiking but not the work involved, Joshua Tree may be your kind of place. With the exception of Ryan Mountain, all the treks we did were nearly flat. Unless you count the boulder pile we scrambled up just because- piles aren’t flat. Yes, we decided to climb the mountain of colossal rocks stacked behind the home we rented. Ascending those stones proved exciting and slightly unnerving. There wasn’t the potential of death in route, but a maiming seemed possible. We moved carefully though and only had one falling-into-a-cactus incident.

exposed cracks
Joshua Tree’s strange granite formations were created by weathering below the earth’s surface.

The morning of our departure, we awoke to two or three inches of snow. Barbed cacti covered in fluffy blankets were an uncanny sight. These plants could visibly be seen swelling as they sucked up the available moisture.

the Maze
What is normal for Joshua Tree isn’t normal anywhere else.

Just as it had begun, our time in Joshua Tree ended with a magical morning. Our getaway perfectly counteracted the blues generated by chilly air and a spreading plague. How could a warm retreat to a resilient environment full of misshapen grace provide anything less?

flake and spike
It’s not often you wake up to a scene like this in the desert.

On a side note, the town of Joshua Tree is small and a bit odd. I couldn’t quite get a sense of its flavor, but I tasted as much of it as I could. We sampled foods from Boo’s Organic Oven, Crossroads Café, Natural Sisters Café, Sam’s Indian Food & Pizza, and Pie for the People! These were all excellent.

Shoes and the Dance

For a number of years, our Christmas gifts to our nieces and nephews have been experiences rather than things. Usually, these experiences are Christmas break activities that bring the family together and out of that post-holiday stupor. This year, with COVID proliferating we weren’t sure we would be able to assemble. Fortunately, creative problem solving is one of my everlasting compulsions, and with a little of that an answer presented itself in the form of some traditional winter weight distribution, aka snowshoeing at Sundance Resort. That wasn’t the only predicament that had to be cracked to bring about the outing that would bring my family together. Let us talk of leisure problems and inconsequential solutions.

Shortly after I recognized the situational suitability of snowshoeing, I realized the kids would all need snowshoes. In the consumer-driven shopping hubs of America, you’d think finding a handful of snowshoes would be an easy task. Yes, supply and demand balance perfectly as the invisible hand directs the recreational free market system. Unless a pandemic throws that equilibrium into chaos because trees can’t give you COVID. My “creative” idea proved common, so finding snowshoes was tricky. After searching numerous stores and websites, Jason and I were able to find enough pairs for all the kiddos. One more problem solved, others to go.

Elk Meadows
Do you want to build a snowman?

After acquiring the shoes for snowshoeing, the snow part proved difficult. We chose to gather during Christmas break even with a powder scarcity. I thought we might be sludge shoeing in the meager 13 inches available, but the coverage was better than I anticipated. There were only a couple spots where the ground was bare, and the dirt in those sections was too frozen to be muddy. Yes, yet another obstacle surmounted.

making it to the meadow
The group almost gave up just minutes from this scenic spot.

The last issue was the diverse sentiments of the kids regarding snowshoeing. This particular dilemma existed due to the endeavor’s exercise requirement. There were some complaints and subsequent bribes resolved those concerns. However, most of the youngsters needed no payoffs to have a good time.

Stewart Falls
Stewart Falls’ tumbles were a stilled filigree on the hillside.

Due to the absence of snow, not all the trails at Sundance were open, but considering the limited gumption of the group, what was available was more than plenty. With a little pushing, we made it to Honeymoon Meadows where lovely views of Timpanogos and a frozen Stewart Falls encircled us.

Honeymoon Meadows
I’d honeymoon in any meadow with this boy.

Unlike a subset of the children, Jason and I loved clomping through the aspens. So, a few days later, on New Year’s Day, we returned to Sundance to clomp under the full moon. Brr!! The straw in my CamelBak froze as we trekked along in 15 degrees, but we managed to stay liquid.

the full experience
Snowshoeing under the full moon takes a little sense of adventure and a lot of layers.

I’m grateful we were still able to gather the family through a slightly-less-snowy-than-ideal adventure even with the restrictions of COVID life. Just about any problem can be solved with some resourcefulness and prolific snacks.