The Iron Road to Senility

I get spoiled on my birthday just for doing something I don’t put in any effort into- becoming older. This year, Jason’s spoiling came in the form of a wide array of activities spanning multiple weeks. These ranged from climbing a mountain on a string to climbing a mountain to listen to a companion of Sting.

iron beginnings
A bumpy ATV ride over private land or a 1.2-mile hike is required to access the beginning of Waterfall Canyon’s via ferrata paths.

A via ferrata, which means “iron road” in Italian, is a climbing path that utilizes steel cables along with rungs or ladders instead of classic climbing gear. The steel cables are attached to the rock and climbers clip into them using two leashes. This system prevents deadly falls but not painful falls. However, it does allow climbers to ascend together and decreases the technicality of a climb.

iron interpretations
Much of Route 1 did not have rungs, and you were on your own to scurry along cracks and ledges.
conquering the crux
The crux of Route I is an overhang jutting out above a long drop off. It required more expertise, muscle, and mental quieting than I thought I’d need for this activity.

Via ferratas became part of European tourism, particularly in the Dolomites and Alps, starting in the mid-1800s. They grew more prolific during World War I as an aid for troop movement, and currently there are about 1,000 via ferratas on the European continent. There are also at least a few here in the Americas.

Mount Ogden
Mount Ogden, the peak containing Waterfall Canyon, is 9,579 feet high and comprised of granite, shale, quartzite, limestone, and dolomite.
the iron upswing
Via ferratas have become increasingly popular in the US in recent years.

Jason and I didn’t even know of via ferratas until we watched The Utah Bucket List on PBS back in 2014. This film highlighted the via ferratas located in Waterfall Canyon near Ogden. Since then, we’ve been longing to experience these intriguing routes, and my birthday provided a good excuse to do so.

sturdy companions
I enjoyed being able to talk to other members of the group while climbing, particularly in the intimidating parts.
step by step
I thought doing a via ferrata would basically be like going up a cliff on a long ladder; it was not.

Waterfall Canyon’s via ferratas can only be accessed with guides, and maximum group size is eight. As we could only include six others in this scheme, we decided to extend the invite to the gaming group that has been playing The Lord of the Rings: Journeys in Middle-earth with us for dozens of months. Why not climb a real mountain with those who have been scaling invented ones with you for years? Clearly, they have proved up to the associated physical and mental challenges.

reachable heights
Via ferratas make adrenaline-pumping undertakings more accessible to those who don’t know all the special handholds and secrets of ascension.

Waterfall Canyon contains three via ferrata paths. These routes were set by Jeff Lowe, a famous climber and Ogden native, back in 2005 and 2006. Jeff Lowe completed over 1,000 first ascents during his career before becoming ill with an unknown neurodegenerative process. We did Route 1, the easiest of the canyon’s three. Route 1 is a 5.6 with a 5.7 crux and rises 500 feet. In comparison, the hardest path, Route 3, is a 5.13. Although the fitness and skill levels of those in our group varied greatly, all but one made it through the whole course even with some height fears scattered among us. No doubt, all that difficult terrain we trudged through in Middle-earth immensely impacted our courage and competence on this occasion.

Jeff Lowe’s lines
Jeff Lowe, the legendary climber who set the via ferrata paths in Waterfall Canyon, died in 2018 after dealing with a neurological disease similar to ALS for 18 years.

We were told the route would take anywhere from 90 minutes to five hours. It did not take us five hours but did require about two and a half. As I mentioned earlier, with via ferratas, everyone ascends together. You can talk to and encourage others, which is nice when you have more hesitant participants among you. The disadvantage is that you will likely fall farther if you slip than you would with a traditional rock-climbing format, up to about 10 feet. While that’s not enough for a serious injury, it’s plenty for sprains or broken bones. Besides being a little riskier than anticipated, the activity was also tougher on the nerves and skill scales than expected. My heart responded to the exposure by pounding away, but I pushed on despite its rhythmic objections. It was scary and marvelous! In my opinion, participating in a terrifying birthday activity is a fantastic yearly tradition as it’s a great way to prepare for the persistent terrors of perpetually decaying one miniscule moment at a time.

Waterfall Canyon
Waterfall Canyon is so named because a 200-foot waterfall adorns its terminus.

That wasn’t my only birthday shindig, though it would have been more than sufficient. The next weekend, Jason had ideas for enough tentative plans to keep a toddler satisfied. We never would have been able to do them all, but we jammed in a few. We went to Park City to see Stewart Copeland of the Police play with the Utah Symphony as part of the Deer Valley Music Festival. Nothing feels more like summer than sprawling out on a shaded hillside atop blankets while listening to some classic tunes and nibbling house-made chips and paella.

earned confidence
It is exhilarating to know you can.

The next day, we spent an hour and a half at the Red Butte Garden. Oddly, we had never been there together in all our years of togetherness. The garden had way more grounds to cover than our hour and a half would allow, but I loved seeing the succulents in the Water Conservation Garden.

Was that the end? No. The day after that, we ate a yummy meal on the balcony at Log Haven with firs and oaks forming a fragrant backdrop to our overconsumption. There’s something magical about that place on cool summer nights.

What about my actual birthday? Following a tasty breakfast of crepes filled with fruit salsa and whipped cream, we went to Snowbird Resort and took a scenic ride on the Peruvian Lift. We got off at the top and hiked to the apex of Mount Baldy. Mount Baldy’s summit is 11,068 feet up, but it’s such an easy climb from the chairlift, I’m almost embarrassed to mention it like I actually ascended a mountain. After about two miles of hiking, we were back at the chairlift for a ride down. We would have loved to do more trekking on this pleasant, windy afternoon, but, unfortunately, there was no time as a couple family members were joining us that evening for Thai takeout in the backyard.

If left up to Jason, we would have undertaken twice as many birthday activities spread out over even more days. As it was, I was overly celebrated. The road to old age is a steely one, but the terrain sure is amusing.

A Great Festival

Each spring, the Great Salt Lake Bird Festival attracts enthusiasts from all over the world to witness what many Utahans don’t even notice. The Great Salt Lake is the eighth-largest terminal lake in the world and provides critical resources to 10 million migratory birds every year consisting of 330 distinct species. The Great Salt Lake Bird Festival allows attendees to focus on the habits, interactions, and sounds of these many feathered creatures, along with the unique habitats they depend on.

Jason and I have attended the festival a few times now. This year, we did two tours at the event: Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge Behind the Gates and Best of Antelope Island. One was four hours long, and the other was five. Those may seem like lengthy stretches to be staring at winged beings, but the time went surprisingly fast.

watching the winged
Time flies on wings of lightning when you are watching beings with wings… and being bitten by them.

Another thing that went fast during the festival? Sleep. I had to get up at 5:00 the first morning and 3:45 the next to make it to the shores of the Great Salt Lake and Bear River at the appropriate times. I guess the early bird gets the worm, but does it also get the coffee?

My sister and parents joined us in attending this year. Another sister and her family were scheduled to also come, but COVID had other ideas. While COVID may not have cooperated, the weather did. Despite the tours’ early hours, I only needed a jacket for the first stint of both.

Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge
The Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge is considered one of the top ten places to bird in the nation. It includes 78,000 acres of freshwater marshland perfect for migratory birds.

Jason and I saw 59 different species of birds over our two excursions. My favorites were black-crowned night heron, ruddy duck, burrowing owl, western tanager, chukar, white-faced ibis, and long-billed curlew.

Jason won the prize for the most bug bites, an honor I’m sure he was just itching to receive. The biting gnats got him 22 times. He wore a head net, but he was pretty unconcerned about positioning it snuggly when he thought it wasn’t necessary. Clearly, they aren’t called no-see-ums because their presence is obvious.

As always, our soaring and wading friends delighted. If you are interested in attending the festival, be aware that tickets completely sell out within minutes, so make sure you are online and ready to buy when they become available. Typically, that’s in mid-March.

Mary Jane and the Goblin Part III: Silhouettes

Unlike humans, Nature makes few mistakes. For the last piece of this post, I will shift from people’s slipups to Nature’s brilliant flukes as I cover our interactions with Goblin Valley’s remarkable figures of contorted stone.

rock irregularities
The goblins are composed of Entrada sandstone, which was formed 170 million years ago.

After our investigation of Temple Mountain and short peek at Goblin Valley, my parents joined us for dinner at Duke’s in Hanksville. We followed that meal up with another at Duke’s the next morning. There ain’t nothing wrong with having chicken fried steak for breakfast, lunch, and dinner! Duke’s is a solid place to eat if you find yourself near Hanksville. With our bellies bursting, we headed for the hills… well, valleys.

goblin connections
Unlike most state parks, at Goblin Valley visitors are allowed to roam and interact with the thousands of inhabitants.
grandparents and ghouls
You are never too old to sway with the ghouls.

Goblin Valley State Park encompasses nearly 4,000 acres of some of the most bizarre terrain you’ll find on Epsilon Gorniar II. Unlike other parks, it contains only a handful of official trails. Otherwise, you are on your own to wander, climb, and explore. Unfortunately, it’s no longer an isolated secret. These days, Goblin Valley State Park often receives an intense influx of tourists between 11:00 and 3:00, at least on weekends. If there are no open parking spots, staff won’t let any more cars in until some become available. To avoid this, we arrived at 10:00 AM, a successful approach. If visiting, I’d recommend you do the same.

vanishing visitors
With a little wandering, the goblins will gobble up other sightseers, and you will get an appropriate sense of isolation as you investigate this lunar-like environment.
space set
Does Goblin Valley look familiar? You may recall it from a stony scene in Galaxy Quest.

We scrambled around for almost eight hours, crawling into holes and over hoodoos. After poking around First Valley for a while, which is the valley closest to the parking lot, we wandered to the Second Valley of Goblins. It contained significantly less people. Back in its remoter regions, we saw no one. Second Valley looked a little different than First Valley. Probably due to its relative narrowness, water had etched deeper paths through its sandy bottom. The hoodoos seemed hewn of rougher stuff with thin jagged pieces of a lighter rock protruding regularly from their surfaces. Apparently, there is also a third valley, but we didn’t make it that far, which is too bad because I’m sure it was deserted.

a snoozer
Sometimes connecting with Nature isn’t about a hike but a nap.
Goblin Valley
Despite its remote location, Goblin Valley has become one of Utah’s most popular state parks.

My parents left in the late afternoon, and the rest of us hiked to the Goblin’s Lair and the Goblette’s Lair. The Goblin’s Lair is a natural 70-foot sandstone cavern that was formed when part of a slot canyon collapsed. One of its skylights can be used to rappel 90 feet to the cavity’s bottom. We didn’t enter that way, but the non-dangling entrance still tested my bouldering skills. Thankfully, Jason was there to assist my squat legs on those massive slabs. His lack of claustrophobia also came in handy. He took the kids exploring in a tiny tunnel that leads off the main chamber. They clambered through that channel for about 100 feet until he decided a tight spot requiring an army crawl was a great place to turn around.

seeking the lair
The Goblin’s Lair used to be a secret of the park that was difficult to find. Now, there is a marked path to it.

The Goblette’s Lair, a much smaller hollow, we found far less impressive, but as it is only a short trek from Goblin’s, why not.

By the time we finished hitting all the gremlin hideouts, we were a little pooped. I’ll admit, my thighs were quite tender the next day. Plus, my knee was still displeased. As the proverb goes, “A sore body pairs perfectly with fine memories.” Man, those sagacious proverb writers really know their stuff.

Goblin’s Lair
The colossal boulders that collapsed to fashion the Goblin’s Lair must be scaled to enter it.

From professors to goblins, our extended weekend was full of unusual characters, and most of them weren’t even family members. Humans’ idiocies were contrasted with Nature’s wondrous creations, curiosity was satisfied, and knees were dissatisfied. Outdoor outing extravaganza perfection!