A Tale of Two Eras

The Jane Austen Society of North America (JASNA) is the largest literary group devoted to Jane Austen in the world with over 5,000 members. You didn’t know Janeites are nearly as common as Beliebers did you? Over 850 of those Janeites assembled in Williamsburg, Virginia, this year for JASNA’s sold-out annual meeting. We were among them. Jane Austen history and colonial history? That was an easy sell.

Colonial Williamsburg, for those not familiar with it, is a living-history museum. It covers over 300 acres and includes more than 88 original 18th-century structures along with hundreds of replicas. There, craftspeople practice trades like brickmaking, blacksmithing, gunsmithing, tailoring, and wigmaking- working history to life. If that sounds like a lot to experience in a week or even a month, you are quite perceptive.

Christiana Campbell's Tavern
The taverns in Williamsburg add a delectable element to history. This particular one was George Washington’s favorite.

Williamsburg was a bit overwhelming in other ways. We left Salt Lake City at 56 degrees and arrived in Williamsburg at 96 degrees, a record high for October. Even July typically isn’t that hot in Williamsburg. Standard complaints aside, beyond the stifling plane ride we took from Atlanta to Norfolk, I didn’t think the heat was that bad. The next day’s 92 degrees and nearly 100% humidity also felt less than horrible. Our palms got sweaty instantly whenever we walked outside, but that was the only indication of the sticky temperatures bombarding us. After visiting Las Vegas in the middle of summer and Los Angeles during a 117-degree heatwave, Virginia’s steamy tantrum didn’t impress.

Capitol
The Capitol held Virginia’s House of Burgesses from 1705 to 1779 and burned down twice.

Between JASNA activities and Colonial Williamsburg sights, our days were packed. Splitting our time between the two was a little tricky. The first day, we learned some new steps at an English country dance class and then ate dinner at Josiah Chowning’s Tavern. Next, we visited with President Thomas Jefferson for an hour and went on a Lantern Trade Tour to see the shops of printers, bookbinders, silversmiths, and milliners. Just typing that long stream of happenings makes me tired.

forging history
Like the other tradespeople in Colonial Williamsburg, the blacksmiths are real artisans not props.

The subsequent day started with a series of JASNA presentations. We attended a keynote lecture featuring Jocelyn Harris and learned about The Gothic Key to Northanger Abbey. Fascinating, right? We ate dinner at Christiana Campbell’s Tavern with a group of our vintage friends to the accompaniment of a Baroque guitar. Later that evening, we made it to a glass armonica concert featuring Dean Shostak. Dean Shostak is one of only five people in the world that know how to play the glass armonica. Never heard of the glass armonica? Benjamin Franklin invented it in 1761 out of a bunch of glass bowls. It became so popular composers like Mozart wrote pieces specifically for it. Eventually, it fell out of favor in the first decades of the 1800s, which may be why you have no idea what I’m talking about. We followed all of this with Cry Witch, a reenactment of a witch trial that took place in Virginia in the early 1700s. We got to vote on the verdict, and I chose guilty. After all, a bad dream seems like perfectly sound evidence of witchcraft.

a desirable deviation
Most of the JASNA attendees were women over the age of 50. Jason was an alluring outlier.

Our third day, we wandered around Colonial Williamsburg, attended a few lectures, and danced for hours at a ball. You know, the same thing everyone does on Wednesdays.

After listening to one more lecture on Jane Austen and the Reformation the next morning, we headed back into Colonial Williamsburg to get a tour of the Capitol, Governor’s Palace, Raleigh Tavern, and numerous other structures. We ate dinner at the King’s Arms Tavern by candlelight. It was quite tasty. As I always say, the best kind of history is the sort you can eat.

fiery escorts
Hundreds of JASNA attendees promenaded around Colonial Williamsburg led by two torchbearers.

We finished off the evening with a ghost tour that retold some not-so-fact-based spectral legends like Lady Skipwith, Lucy Ludwell, and the hauntings at the Peyton Randolph House. However, we discovered one tale regarding George Wythe to be mostly true after a little post-tour research. George Wythe, signer of the Declaration of Independence and mentor to Thomas Jefferson, was probably poisoned by a nephew hoping to quicken his inheritance, though that was never irrefutably proven. I guess some tall tales are surprisingly short. The ghost tour was mostly lighthearted and fun with crackling leaves and a fall breeze adding their ambiance embellishments. Those additions made the outing feel like a scene from Hocus Pocus.

Governor's Palace
The Governor’s Palace is a recreation of a building used by both royal and post-colonial governors, including Thomas Jefferson.

Our last day in Virginia, we thought about going to Yorktown or Jamestown but reconsidered since there was still much we hadn’t seen in Williamsburg. At the Courthouse, we attended a mock court case. We returned to the Peyton Randolph House for a tour, which was only marginally eerie during the day. We visited the Magazine, George Wythe House, and Wetherburn’s Tavern. And no, we didn’t encounter any irritated orbs complaining about arsenic off-notes in the strawberries at the George Wythe House.

blasts from the past
Cannons like these were used in the Revolutionary War.

Out of all of those activities and sights, which were our favorites? While all were enthralling, we especially enjoyed Cry Witch, the JASNA ball, and our tavern meals. Need I repeat myself about the best sort of history being the kind you can eat?

taking Regency on the road
Filling your suitcase with Regency attire takes commitment and Tetris skills.

Williamsburg and JASNA were a perfect combination, except for the too-much-to-see-and-do part. My advice to those visiting Williamsburg? Wear comfortable shoes, focus on a few highlights at a time, slow down to eat some seafood at George’s favorite joint, and get a little nerdy with the history geeks.

Spiking 150

You history buffs may recall a monumental conclusion that occurred 150 years ago. If not, let me spike your memory. This May marked the 150th anniversary of the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad at unlikely Promontory Summit, Utah. In celebration of this anniversary, 150 parties took place around the state. Jason and I were delighted to be part of one of these and to be able to visit Promontory Summit itself during its three-day celebration.

hooped and boxed
The Heber Valley Railroad utilizes cars built from 1910 to the late 1940s.

The Heber Valley Railroad (Heber Creeper) is the sole historic railway in Utah; it’s the only place in the state you can ride a 100-year-old train. So, it was a perfect track for one of the many sesquicentennial festivities. Before the Heber Creeper rolled down its 15-mile line hauling eight cars filled with 400 people, our vintage dance group enlivened those riders with moves from the 1860s. On the platform, we taught them to chasse and skip along with us.

Big Boy
Big Boy weighs 1.2 million pounds and is over 132 feet long making it the world’s largest locomotive.

During the ride through Provo Canyon, our twirling troupe traversed cars and chatted with attendees. Their passion was contagious. With so many train enthusiasts from all over the world aboard, the Heber Creeper was feeling the love that night. I enjoyed wandering the compartments and conversing with people, but it was a challenge to fit my hoopskirt though the aisles and even harder to sit down. Apparently, train cars aren’t built to accommodate 4.5-foot-wide passengers.

the last spike
During the summer, reenactments of the driving of the last spike happen every Saturday at Golden Spike National Historic Park.

We managed to get tickets for the Sesquicentennial Celebration the following day at Golden Spike National Historic Park. The weekend’s festivities were completely sold out with thousands of attendees. On the way to Promontory Summit, we stopped in Ogden to see Big Boy, the largest and heaviest steam locomotive ever made. Decommissioned in 1959, Big Boy No. 4014 was restored to operating condition in honor of the sesquicentennial by the Union Pacific Railroad. The crowds to view Big Boy were dense, even thicker than the throngs we encountered later that day at Promontory Summit. It was worth the wedging though to examine that beefy chunk of a bygone era.

rolling perdition
We partied like it was 1869 with some family members who also came to Golden Spike.

We made it to Golden Spike in time for the afternoon reenactment, which was packed but entertaining. We heard some true tales about the completing of the railroad, ate from a plethora of food trucks, and visited “Hell on Wheels.” The working replicas of the Jupiter and No. 119 locomotives, although not new, were new to me. I loved how they breathed tangible steam and smoke into the stillness of the past.

No. 119
The original Union Pacific No. 119 was scrapped in 1903, but this operating replica is pretty convincing.

As a history nerd, I was super excited about the sesquicentennial, and it did not disappoint. Being a part of the revelries with our dancing group made it even more extraordinary. It was surprisingly easy to get swept up in the momentum of an occurrence that changed this continent 150 years ago.

Prancing Monarchs in Petticoats

Jason and I have performed and instructed steps at some esteemed affairs. Recently, we waltzed for royalty.

Our vintage-dance group got hooped and gemmed up to teach and twirl at the Princess Festival. The gathered czarinas seemed enthusiastic about their hopping education. We caught glimpses of them trying to replicate their “princess dance” throughout the night.

Collectively, our hoopskirts consumed a hulking space.
Collectively, our hoopskirts consumed a hulking space.

Keep on bopping you regal lasses!