Typically Magical

Christmas is supposed to be magical. Often, it is just typical. For us, last December’s festivities were a little of both.

What was typical about 2020’s Christmas? Jason and I opened presents from each other in our usual fashion, though perhaps a bit earlier than normal. In our drawn-out process, every item is played with, discussed, tried on, laughed at, etc. Jason and I also made beef bourguignon together. We often scavenge for enough moments to make this special dish during the holidays and have succeeded on enough occasions to justify its placement here in the typical category.

the unavoidable benefits of climate collapse
Hiking on Christmas day? Magical or apocalyptical?

That brings me to the magical. What was magical about 2020’s Christmas? Time. Without a multitude of family happenings, Jason and I had enough time to make breakfast together and go on an afternoon hike. I’m not sure if a hike on Christmas should be considered magical or simply a manifestation of climate mayhem, but we enjoyed it either way.

The Silence of the Yams
It puts the icing on.

While we didn’t have present-opening extravaganzas with family members, we did have chaotic Google video chats and gift unveils. Technology is pretty magical even if its trendy offspring, tumultuous virtual conversations, are sometimes less so. Therefore, with reservations, I’m placing these digital gatherings in the magical category.

kooky cookies
We created many film-inspired cookies proving delicious and appetizing aren’t necessarily synonymous.

Those few dull paragraphs sum up what was a delightful Christmas. Maybe magical would be a stretch, but it was ordinarily and abnormally wonderful.

A Standard Trip

We visited Moab last fall after being absent from its vermillion curves for a year. I’m sorry Moab! We still love you. I hate to offer excuses, but there’s been this whole COVID thing…

Delicate Arch
Delicate Arch stands resolute 52 feet above a swirling sandstone pan.

This trip was all about showing off some of Moab’s standards to my sister’s family, none of whom had been to Moab before. Amazing newcomers in Moab is as simple as walking them outside, so Jason and I can’t take much credit for our inevitable impress success.

beneath the bunches
Although Delicate Arch is probably the most popular hike in the Moab area, we successfully descended below its crowds.

With the world warming up, November didn’t feel like November in Moab. The only giveaway of the season was the lack of light. How are you supposed to see everything you want to with a 5:30 cutoff? Come on Mother Nature, let’s be reasonable.

Pine Tree Arch
Pine Tree Arch is a chunky hole framing a small tree.
Landscape Arch
At 300 feet, Landscape Arch is the longest arch in North America, but it is in no danger of being the widest with a girth of only six feet at its narrowest section.

We spent our first day in Arches National Park. After completing the hike to Delicate Arch, a Moab essential, we covered about three miles in the Devils Garden to see Landscape, Navajo, Tunnel, Pine Tree, and Partition Arch. We navigated most of our return route in darkness, including a tricky fin. Despite our vision deficiency, the adventure was well received by our juvenile companions.

fun with fins
Fins form arches and create fun.

Some of the kids requested a ramble on the Fisher Towers Trail, a wish we happily accommodated the next day. The Fisher Towers are a collection of channeled sandstone spires frosted by layers of burgundy mud. The largest of these, The Titan, is believed to be the tallest free-standing natural tower in the United States at 900 feet. Those pillars aren’t the only fascinating rock formations along this 4.5-mile route though. Bulbous hoodoos seem to mushroom out of the sand, and the final viewpoint overlooks a valley inhabited by a jumble of warped stone figures. Although the weather was more pleasant than we had a right to expect, the wind began accelerating in a chaotic manner near the end of our journey. Outbursts sent fistfuls of dirt into our faces and down our shirts. Our ears and pockets were full of grit by the time we reached the trailhead.

sand icing
The Fisher Towers are iced with dripping mud.

The following day, we visited Moab Giants, a fun dinosaur park and museum near town. Moab Giants focuses on the ancient creatures who once roamed the area with an emphasis on their tracks. On Moab Giant’s Dinosaur Trail, over 100 full-sized replicas can be viewed along with footprint information. The educational and photographical opportunities are plentiful, and we enjoyed both equally.

little dots, normal people
Tall towers. Normal-sized people.
towers transformed
The Fisher Towers undergo transformations from every angle.

Before heading home, we detoured to the Island in the Sky portion of Canyonlands National Park. Between the relentless wind and 45 degrees, Canyonlands was barely tolerable with abundant jackets. Yup, just like that, late fall was back. We hiked to Mesa Arch, a trail short enough to be doable in the cold, and stopped at overlooks of Shafer Canyon and the Grand View Point.

perfectly pocked
Cratered characters gather at the feet of Fisher Towers.
finishing Fisher
The Fisher Towers Trail ends perched above Onion Creek with miles of Southwest expanse beyond.

Although we hiked about 12 miles during our stay, fitness did not follow. The food available in Moab makes the exercise attained inconsequential. Between South African fare from Hidden Cuisine, drunken noodles from Thai Bella, donuts from Doughbird, breakfast delights from Love Muffin, and quesadillas from the Quesadilla Mobilla, we were well fed. We’ll just leave it at that.

deadly displays of affection
That’s one way to embrace death.
a rex requirement
Fake dinosaurs- so hot right now.

How did our young cohorts do with all this adventuring? It took our group much longer to finish each undertaking than expected, but our sluggish spirits remained exuberant. If something takes twice as long, it means you enjoyed it twice as much, right? How did Moab do? It seemed more crowded than normal for November. Maybe others have discovered my November trick. (Dang it!) Or maybe COVID has altered vacation habits.

a grand view
Canyonlands is layer upon layer of plateau and plunge.

Moab, I swear I’ll not stay away so long again… unless another pandemic hits, and I have to survive on pickles and pecans while only communicating with the outside world through toilet paper signals. I guarantee nothing in that case. After all, I wouldn’t want to make any two-ply promises.

Brian and the Break

Jason and I needed a break this fall, and a break is exactly what we got in an excursion to Cedar Breaks and Brian Head with a sister. When you get to take a break to a break, you know it’s going to be good.

Parowan Gap
Parowan Gap contains graphics that span across centuries and cultures.

Jason and I stopped at Parowan Gap on the way to Brian Head. There, an impressive array of petroglyphs has accumulated from different cultures over more than 1000 years, including the Fremont, Paiute, and Hopi. Although Parowan Gap is just a few minutes off I-15, we had never even heard of it until this trip. If you are passing through Utah by way of I-15, this is a great quick detour near Parowan.

Cedar from Ash
We caught new perspectives of Cedar Breaks from Ashdown Gorge.

The next morning, we began our adventuring in earnest. We rented a six-seat UTV, a Ranger Crew 1000, and headed skyward. We rode it up to the Twisted Forest Trail in Ashdown Gorge and then took to our feet. The Twisted Forest Trail wanders through sparse bristlecone pines atop white and ginger streaked hillsides to a dramatic precipice.

masters of survival
Masters of adaptation, bristlecones can survive losing up to 90% of their bark to fire and storm damage.
the bark of the bristlecone
Over thousands of years, severe conditions transform dead bristlecone bark into contorted art.

Bristlecone pines are one of the oldest organisms in the world and are only found in six states. They can live over 5,000 years in harsh high-elevation climates. Between their fascinating figures and the views along the dizzying ridgeline, we didn’t mind undertaking this mile-long trek twice to allow a missing member of our group to also enjoy it.

a conspicuous termination
The end of the Twisted Forest Trail truly is an ending.

After a double take of the Twisted Forest, we drove our UTV to the crest of High Mountain, which offered extensive outlooks on Cedar Breaks from its hidden backside.

High Mountain
You can’t plan a picture like this.
catching the bus
An abandoned bus isn’t a critter typically spotted in the woods.

The next day, we hiked at 10,000 feet above hoodoos, fins, arches, and gulches in Cedar Breaks National Monument. At Cedar Breaks, iron and manganese have been shaped by ice, wind, and faults over millions of years to create some of nature’s most exquisite geographic art. A couple of the kids in our group had never been to Cedar Breaks making the Ramparts Trail to Spectra Point and the Ramparts Overlook a must. Although this is probably the most popular path in the monument, it feels uncharacteristically hazardous for a standard route with no rails in most places and a 2,000-foot drop-off unnervingly close.

Cedar Breaks
Cedar Breaks’ amphitheater sweeps for three miles.
precarious and picturesque
Life is unforgiving, but the views can be beautiful.

We added another dash of adventure to our trek with an extra spur from the Ramparts Overlook to Bartizan Arch, a new route for all of us. In total, we only rambled about five miles, but we worked hard for those steps. Wind whipped about us with gusts up to 50 MPH, and our elevation changed over 1,200 feet. When you are already at 10,000 feet, a little elevation gain goes a long way.

Bartizan Arch
Bartizan Arch is a rare triple.
Ramparts Overlook
The earth plummets away from you in striking and terrifying ways at Cedar Breaks.

Our trip passed fast, and soon it was time to go home. However, we weren’t ready to relinquish just yet. We let the leisure linger a little with a hike to Hidden Haven Waterfall, just a 1.4-mile undertaking. The journey to this cascade comes with a little scrambling and creek hopping, but it is easy enough for all ages.

sunset at Sunset View Overlook
We surveyed more people than sun at the Sunset View Overlook, but the sunset was acceptably superb.
smoke and scarlet
Smoke from wildfires flushed the sun as it fell.

Afterward, we went to Yankee Meadows Reservoir for a picnic. I can’t say I’d recommend that area currently. It was badly burned by a fire in 2017. While it is starting to regrow, there are more cowpies and charred bark than living plants at this point.

Hidden Haven Falls
Benson Creek drops out of a slot canyon to produce this graceful chute.

Our little break to a large break held impactful scenery and a big impact on sanity. Yes, in case you are wondering, there is still a world outside your walls, and it continues to be magnificent.