A Standard Trip

We visited Moab last fall after being absent from its vermillion curves for a year. I’m sorry Moab! We still love you. I hate to offer excuses, but there’s been this whole COVID thing…

Delicate Arch
Delicate Arch stands resolute 52 feet above a swirling sandstone pan.

This trip was all about showing off some of Moab’s standards to my sister’s family, none of whom had been to Moab before. Amazing newcomers in Moab is as simple as walking them outside, so Jason and I can’t take much credit for our inevitable impress success.

beneath the bunches
Although Delicate Arch is probably the most popular hike in the Moab area, we successfully descended below its crowds.

With the world warming up, November didn’t feel like November in Moab. The only giveaway of the season was the lack of light. How are you supposed to see everything you want to with a 5:30 cutoff? Come on Mother Nature, let’s be reasonable.

Pine Tree Arch
Pine Tree Arch is a chunky hole framing a small tree.
Landscape Arch
At 300 feet, Landscape Arch is the longest arch in North America, but it is in no danger of being the widest with a girth of only six feet at its narrowest section.

We spent our first day in Arches National Park. After completing the hike to Delicate Arch, a Moab essential, we covered about three miles in the Devils Garden to see Landscape, Navajo, Tunnel, Pine Tree, and Partition Arch. We navigated most of our return route in darkness, including a tricky fin. Despite our vision deficiency, the adventure was well received by our juvenile companions.

fun with fins
Fins form arches and create fun.

Some of the kids requested a ramble on the Fisher Towers Trail, a wish we happily accommodated the next day. The Fisher Towers are a collection of channeled sandstone spires frosted by layers of burgundy mud. The largest of these, The Titan, is believed to be the tallest free-standing natural tower in the United States at 900 feet. Those pillars aren’t the only fascinating rock formations along this 4.5-mile route though. Bulbous hoodoos seem to mushroom out of the sand, and the final viewpoint overlooks a valley inhabited by a jumble of warped stone figures. Although the weather was more pleasant than we had a right to expect, the wind began accelerating in a chaotic manner near the end of our journey. Outbursts sent fistfuls of dirt into our faces and down our shirts. Our ears and pockets were full of grit by the time we reached the trailhead.

sand icing
The Fisher Towers are iced with dripping mud.

The following day, we visited Moab Giants, a fun dinosaur park and museum near town. Moab Giants focuses on the ancient creatures who once roamed the area with an emphasis on their tracks. On Moab Giant’s Dinosaur Trail, over 100 full-sized replicas can be viewed along with footprint information. The educational and photographical opportunities are plentiful, and we enjoyed both equally.

little dots, normal people
Tall towers. Normal-sized people.
towers transformed
The Fisher Towers undergo transformations from every angle.

Before heading home, we detoured to the Island in the Sky portion of Canyonlands National Park. Between the relentless wind and 45 degrees, Canyonlands was barely tolerable with abundant jackets. Yup, just like that, late fall was back. We hiked to Mesa Arch, a trail short enough to be doable in the cold, and stopped at overlooks of Shafer Canyon and the Grand View Point.

perfectly pocked
Cratered characters gather at the feet of Fisher Towers.
finishing Fisher
The Fisher Towers Trail ends perched above Onion Creek with miles of Southwest expanse beyond.

Although we hiked about 12 miles during our stay, fitness did not follow. The food available in Moab makes the exercise attained inconsequential. Between South African fare from Hidden Cuisine, drunken noodles from Thai Bella, donuts from Doughbird, breakfast delights from Love Muffin, and quesadillas from the Quesadilla Mobilla, we were well fed. We’ll just leave it at that.

deadly displays of affection
That’s one way to embrace death.
a rex requirement
Fake dinosaurs- so hot right now.

How did our young cohorts do with all this adventuring? It took our group much longer to finish each undertaking than expected, but our sluggish spirits remained exuberant. If something takes twice as long, it means you enjoyed it twice as much, right? How did Moab do? It seemed more crowded than normal for November. Maybe others have discovered my November trick. (Dang it!) Or maybe COVID has altered vacation habits.

a grand view
Canyonlands is layer upon layer of plateau and plunge.

Moab, I swear I’ll not stay away so long again… unless another pandemic hits, and I have to survive on pickles and pecans while only communicating with the outside world through toilet paper signals. I guarantee nothing in that case. After all, I wouldn’t want to make any two-ply promises.

Brian and the Break

Jason and I needed a break this fall, and a break is exactly what we got in an excursion to Cedar Breaks and Brian Head with a sister. When you get to take a break to a break, you know it’s going to be good.

Parowan Gap
Parowan Gap contains graphics that span across centuries and cultures.

Jason and I stopped at Parowan Gap on the way to Brian Head. There, an impressive array of petroglyphs has accumulated from different cultures over more than 1000 years, including the Fremont, Paiute, and Hopi. Although Parowan Gap is just a few minutes off I-15, we had never even heard of it until this trip. If you are passing through Utah by way of I-15, this is a great quick detour near Parowan.

Cedar from Ash
We caught new perspectives of Cedar Breaks from Ashdown Gorge.

The next morning, we began our adventuring in earnest. We rented a six-seat UTV, a Ranger Crew 1000, and headed skyward. We rode it up to the Twisted Forest Trail in Ashdown Gorge and then took to our feet. The Twisted Forest Trail wanders through sparse bristlecone pines atop white and ginger streaked hillsides to a dramatic precipice.

masters of survival
Masters of adaptation, bristlecones can survive losing up to 90% of their bark to fire and storm damage.
the bark of the bristlecone
Over thousands of years, severe conditions transform dead bristlecone bark into contorted art.

Bristlecone pines are one of the oldest organisms in the world and are only found in six states. They can live over 5,000 years in harsh high-elevation climates. Between their fascinating figures and the views along the dizzying ridgeline, we didn’t mind undertaking this mile-long trek twice to allow a missing member of our group to also enjoy it.

a conspicuous termination
The end of the Twisted Forest Trail truly is an ending.

After a double take of the Twisted Forest, we drove our UTV to the crest of High Mountain, which offered extensive outlooks on Cedar Breaks from its hidden backside.

High Mountain
You can’t plan a picture like this.
catching the bus
An abandoned bus isn’t a critter typically spotted in the woods.

The next day, we hiked at 10,000 feet above hoodoos, fins, arches, and gulches in Cedar Breaks National Monument. At Cedar Breaks, iron and manganese have been shaped by ice, wind, and faults over millions of years to create some of nature’s most exquisite geographic art. A couple of the kids in our group had never been to Cedar Breaks making the Ramparts Trail to Spectra Point and the Ramparts Overlook a must. Although this is probably the most popular path in the monument, it feels uncharacteristically hazardous for a standard route with no rails in most places and a 2,000-foot drop-off unnervingly close.

Cedar Breaks
Cedar Breaks’ amphitheater sweeps for three miles.
precarious and picturesque
Life is unforgiving, but the views can be beautiful.

We added another dash of adventure to our trek with an extra spur from the Ramparts Overlook to Bartizan Arch, a new route for all of us. In total, we only rambled about five miles, but we worked hard for those steps. Wind whipped about us with gusts up to 50 MPH, and our elevation changed over 1,200 feet. When you are already at 10,000 feet, a little elevation gain goes a long way.

Bartizan Arch
Bartizan Arch is a rare triple.
Ramparts Overlook
The earth plummets away from you in striking and terrifying ways at Cedar Breaks.

Our trip passed fast, and soon it was time to go home. However, we weren’t ready to relinquish just yet. We let the leisure linger a little with a hike to Hidden Haven Waterfall, just a 1.4-mile undertaking. The journey to this cascade comes with a little scrambling and creek hopping, but it is easy enough for all ages.

sunset at Sunset View Overlook
We surveyed more people than sun at the Sunset View Overlook, but the sunset was acceptably superb.
smoke and scarlet
Smoke from wildfires flushed the sun as it fell.

Afterward, we went to Yankee Meadows Reservoir for a picnic. I can’t say I’d recommend that area currently. It was badly burned by a fire in 2017. While it is starting to regrow, there are more cowpies and charred bark than living plants at this point.

Hidden Haven Falls
Benson Creek drops out of a slot canyon to produce this graceful chute.

Our little break to a large break held impactful scenery and a big impact on sanity. Yes, in case you are wondering, there is still a world outside your walls, and it continues to be magnificent.

Mountains V Microbes

Prologue

Here is the tragic tale of snowy slopes left desolate amidst the unseen onslaught of tiny viruses. This story is one of broken powder bliss and how Jason and I experienced the showdown between mountains and microbes.

Chapter I: Mountains

Thursday, Early January, Solitude

Jason and I went to Solitude for our first time ever at the beginning of January. Nine inches in 24 hours was plenty to tempt us. It wasn’t enough to tempt us early though. We got to Solitude about 12:30 PM after encountering no traffic in the canyon and took a parking spot that had just opened up.

Due to the numerous Ikon passholders, Solitude isn’t necessarily something you will find at Solitude Resort any longer. My advice to those visiting this resort? Don’t use the Moonbeam lift. It’s crowded with beginners and everyone else. The throngs are less intense elsewhere. We enjoyed exploring Eagle Express and Powderhorn, especially the Grumble, Rumble, and Stumble runs.

cold smoke
Fill my plate with hefty portions of powder!

Friday, Mid-January, Solitude

About a week later, 10 inches overnight convinced us to spend an afternoon at Solitude. The new snow had already been trampled under countless skis and boards, but we didn’t waste any time mourning its premature flattening. We tried out Summit Express in search of secret powder. Although there wasn’t any hush-hush fluff on Summit, that lift ride was probably the prettiest we’ve experienced in Big Cottonwood with feathery clouds zooming over imposing Black Bess Peak. We stayed up there around 10,000 feet most of the afternoon riding Dynamite.

Sunday, Mid-January, Brighton

Brighton received 24 inches in 24 hours with 13 of those falling overnight. That ended a week with 55 inches of accumulation, which accounted for most of its 87-inch base. With a platter of precipitation that delicious, we knew competition in the canyon would be concentrated. We left home before 7:00 in an effort to beat the rush. Although we got to Big Cottonwood quickly, a couple traffic accidents and a sudden accumulation of vehicles then delayed us on a grand scale. By the time we reached Brighton, nearly four hours had passed. Four hours! At least parking spots were plentiful as no one else had been able to get up the canyon either. We didn’t get first tracks, but we got tasty seconds and thirds. Intoxicated by the lure of the powder, we boarded for over 3.5 hours with no break to thaw even though it was only about 20 degrees during the warmest part of the day.

beginning with belief
Our nephew handled boarding’s sharp learning curve with enthusiasm.

Friday, Early February, Solitude

In February, we took a nephew boarding with us at Solitude. This was his first boarding experience, and he learned quickly with an afternoon in ski school. While he was practicing his stocky stance, Jason and I stuck with the Grumble, Stumble, and Rumble runs. They still had powder on them from a storm earlier that week. It was bumpy powder, which is probably why it was still there, but we didn’t mind. We stopped to get both burritos and waffles on the way home because beans and whipped cream are an obvious pairing.

Tuesday, Early March, Brighton

Our friend J.R. came with us eager to test out a new board. Temperatures stayed in the low 30s. Hence, we encountered no hardpack. We also did not encounter many people notwithstanding the nearly full parking lot. However, we stumbled upon laughter quite often.

board not bored
On the best boarding days, the mood is as light as the powder.

Chapter II: Microbes

Saturday, March 14th, Everywhere

Resorts began shutting down in swift succession, just one of the many ways COVID abruptly disordered life. Even though resort closures meant missing our favorite months of boarding, they certainly were not the most dramatic changes due to the virus. Had we known what was coming, we would have ridden the slopes endlessly early in the season like stick wranglers who weren’t afraid to get a little frostbite on their saddles.

Chapter III: Mountains with Microbes

Saturdays, April and May, Alta

Although not operational, Alta opened its forbidden slopes to all winter sports enthusiasts including boarders. Without functioning lifts, the only way to access those select hillsides was through shoe power. On a Saturday in April, I convinced Jason to try snowshoeing up and boarding down Alta’s inclines. He remained skeptical as we trekked 90 minutes up the rises of Home Run and Race Hill with boards strapped on our backs. When we started riding, the untrod but slushy snow felt strange. We sunk into it like powder, but it weighed us down. As this is not a common combination at a ski resort, it seemed as uncanny as finding busy city streets abandoned. Despite all our uphill efforts, it only took us 10 minutes to descend.

I guess Jason found the energy required for our shoe/board pursuits acceptable because the next Saturday found us at Alta again in t-shirt weather. This time we went higher up Home Run, almost all the way to the terminus of the Sunnyside lift. Surprisingly, this longer journey took us less time. We got to the top just an hour and 10 minutes after we started. Every second of our 12 minutes down was savored. I like to hog whole runs to myself, and we had nearly the entire resort on this occasion. They say be careful what you wish for. Universe, is it too late to tell you that’s not exactly what I meant?

Our last visit to Alta was in mid-May. By that time, the warm weather had created countless mini crevasses in the snow as if the frosty skin of the mountain had shriveled like a raisin. Still, it was pleasant outside, and we would have been content to be outside even without the pleasant bit.

These trips to Alta were a rope tow to Sanity. Thanks, Alta, for discarding your traditional prejudices regarding boarders and welcoming all to your beautiful slopes in these unusual times!

persistent powder
Powder will again prevail!

Epilogue

Now the snow is long gone but COVID is not. With the 2020-2021 ski season approaching, powder dreams blend with pathogen phobias into a granular jumble of drifting flakes and drifting germs. May snow crystals prove more prolific than viral nucleic acids in the months ahead.