Big Sur? Sure

It was Jason’s turn to plan our anniversary outings this year. He asked if I was up for going to Big Sur, and I said sure, even though I didn’t know exactly where that was. Here’s how our explorations of that vaguely-defined section of California’s coast materialized.

We stayed at the Sanctuary in Marina, which is right on a blustery but beautiful beach.
We stayed at the Sanctuary in Marina, which is right on a blustery but beautiful beach.

First thing is first. What is Big Sur? A town? A park? A VIP? No, it is the slice of the California shoreline roughly between Carmel and San Simeon. It is rocky, dramatic, and distinctly remarkable despite its imprecise boundaries.

Our first day in California, our anniversary, we spent walking along Monterey’s Cannery Row, a cute touristy area lined with little shops and lapping tides. We ate lunch on the pier, drenched in unexpected sunshine, while the waves sent jellyfish fluttering about below us. We chuckled at the sea lions barking rowdily to one another on the Coast Guard Pier. After a walk through the succulent-covered sands of the Marina Dunes Preserve, we feasted on Mediterranean fare at Dametra Café in Carmel. Spontaneous dancing, delightful serenades, and the best Greek salad I’ve ever eaten were all part of that memorable meal.

The Bixby Creek Bridge, built in 1932, is one of the biggest single-span bridges in the world.
The Bixby Creek Bridge, built in 1932, is one of the biggest single-span bridges in the world.
Keyhole Arch, Pfeiffer Beach's most interesting feature, appears unextraordinary until viewed head on.
Keyhole Arch, Pfeiffer Beach’s most interesting feature, appears unextraordinary until viewed head on.

The next day felt big indeed as we took in Big Sur. If one were to drive nonstop from Carmel to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, which is only a portion of Big Sur, the ride would just take an hour; it took us all day. The stops along this route were plentiful and plenty distracting. We decided to start with our top priorities and see what we had time for after that. Turns out, we didn’t have time for anything after that.

We stopped at the Rocky Creek and Bixby Creek Bridges. Bixby, a 714-foot-long arched structure, is claimed to be the most photographed bridge in the United States, but how do you calculate that? It was an aesthetically-pleasing arc whatever its ranking. We ate dinner at Nepenthe Restaurant, a secluded establishment along the way, while hovering 800 feet up on a seaside cliff. It was gorgeous! Pfeiffer Beach was our next detour. This beach was rather unusual with its famous Keyhole Arch and purple sand. The last thing we were able to fit in before sunset was a short walk to view McWay Falls. McWay Falls is an 80-foot waterfall that splashes onto a pristine beach just beyond the reach of the surf. It sounds like the fabricated setting of some bad island romance flick, but it’s real, and it was not bad.

McWay Falls spouts right into the ocean's waiting waves.
McWay Falls spouts right into the ocean’s waiting waves.

We started the last day of our short vacation at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is often regarded as one of the top ten aquariums in the United States, a ranking it deserves. The sea otters were my fav! (No surprise there.) Three otters were in the exhibit that day: Gidget, Selka, and Rosa. The rest were off mentoring others of their species. The otters were bigger and longer than I had imagined- weighing about half of me- and they never stopped moving. Otterly adorable!

Yes, the sea otters were this adorable.
Yes, the sea otters were this adorable.

We could easily have spent a couple days gazing into the aquarium’s kelp forest and learning more about Monterey Bay’s habitats, but we were soon off to Carmel Mission, Carmel Beach, and 17-Mile Drive. 17-Mile Drive is a scenic ride through ritzy Pebble Beach and a half dozen of the fanciest golf courses ever conceived. Some of our favorite points of interest along those miles were Ghost Tree, Point Joe, and the Lone Cypress. The sea wasn’t the only thing restless on this peninsula; the air seemed rather rushed as well. Consequently, we were unusually motivated to keep many of our stops brief.

Carmel Mission was founded in 1770. Its extensive grounds are pretty and peaceful.
Carmel Mission was founded in 1770. Its extensive grounds are pretty and peaceful.
The Lone Cypress, said to be the most photographed tree in North America, has been a registered trademark of the Pebble Beach Company for a hundred years.
The Lone Cypress, said to be the most photographed tree in North America, has been a registered trademark of the Pebble Beach Company for a hundred years.

For those headed to Big Sur, however you define that area, keep in mind a couple things. The food is awesome! Make time to eat lots of it! And be prepared to be colder than you anticipate. With forecasted temperatures in the 60s to low 70s during our visit, Jason and I brought shorts and tank tops. We should have brought coats instead. Brrr! Seventy degrees isn’t very pleasant when you factor in exuberant coastal breezes and frequent fog.

The ominous twists of this Monterey cypress, bleached by years of wind and salt, begged to be photographed.
The ominous twists of this Monterey cypress, bleached by years of wind and salt, begged to be photographed.

I didn’t have any expectations of Big Sur, since I didn’t know much about it before this trip. So, to say my expectations were exceeded wouldn’t really mean anything. Instead, I’ll just say that it was a good trip full of scenic waters and tasty food. Sure, I’d go back to Big Sur.

The Rat Race

My sister Kristen is a determined and strong woman. When she signed up for the Desert RATS 50K, a trail run, and asked if Jason and I wanted to join her, we thought about it for about two seconds. After two seconds, we decided to provide cheering services and participate in the 10K instead. I too am a determined woman, but I am determined not to be that determined. The race was in Fruita, Colorado, which gave us an excuse to take a long weekend getaway with a portion of my family. We had a great time hanging with kin and making a detour to Moab on the way home.

Our 10K took us along the Colorado River's ridges.
Our 10K took us along the Colorado River’s ridges.

Kristen did her 50K on Saturday morning, which took over six hours. Then, after running 31 miles, that crazy girl wanted to do some hiking in Colorado National Monument. I did mention that we are of determined stock, didn’t I? We trekked a bit of the Coke Ovens Trail together until Kristen realized she couldn’t make her legs move anymore. Then, Jason and I traversed Otto’s Trail by ourselves.

We rented a charming antique home in Fruita.
We rented a charming antique home in Fruita.

The next day, Jason and I ran our first trail 10K. It was a gorgeous course with expansive views of the Colorado River. I can see why people like trail runs. Following our little jaunt, we ate lunch at a cute café and wandered around Fruita’s quaint streets. Fruita is small, but it’s got style. In the evening, we headed to Whitewater Hill Vineyard so the oenophiles in our group could sample some local libations. We spent our late hours that night, and throughout the weekend, playing games like Phase 10, Exploding Kittens, and Codenames around the kitchen table of our darling rented home.

Independence Monument, a freestanding spire, was my favorite formation we encountered in Colorado National Monument.
Independence Monument, a freestanding spire, was my favorite formation we encountered in Colorado National Monument.

Jason and I stopped in Moab for a day or so on our way home. My sister and her husband joined us for an afternoon of that day or so. We ate lunch at the Eklecticafe and hiked to Corona and Bowtie Arches. The Eklecticafe serves, as its name suggests, an eclectic menu; vegans and carnivores alike can find something to suit their palates among its varied options.

Corona Arch is easy to reach and breathtaking to behold.
Corona Arch is easy to reach and breathtaking to behold.

Jason and I went to Arches National Park after my sister and her hubby departed for home and hiked “The Spectacles” before it got dark. It was beyond windy in the park that evening. Gusts up to 55 MPH plagued us with sand and extra resistance. On a positive note, the breeze scared most of the tourists back to their windless dwellings, so we didn’t have many other visitors to contend with on the trail.

The curves of Corona provided too tempting a frame to resist.
The curves of Corona provided too tempting a frame to resist.

For years, Jason and I have talked about eating dinner at the Desert Bistro during our Moab visits, but we have always been too tired or dirty to follow through on this desire. This time, we finally ate a meal at this fantastic joint. Yum! The house salad with its mix of crunchy sesame seeds and pungent gorgonzola was incredible, and the beets layered with pesto goat cheese were tremendously tasty. Also, my bison tenderloin wrapped in bacon was amazing… so, pretty much everything was scrumptious! If you find yourself hungry in Moab, get your hungry self to this place… with a reservation.

Turret Arch's knobs and crevices are fascinating in any light.
Turret Arch’s knobs and crevices are fascinating in any light.

The last day of our trip, we hiked the Alcove Spring Trail in Canyonlands National Park with some sidetracking down an intersecting canyon to check out Moses and Zeus, two iconic sandstone towers that share a conversation in a silent land. Moses, the taller of the two spires, protrudes 410 feet from its base of Moenkopi and Chinle bands. Although it was almost 80 degrees in Moab the day before, weather is capricious not consistent. It was in the low 40s in Canyonlands when we began our ramble, and the wind was zipping along at 25 MPH with gusts up to 40 MPH. We took three layers of jackets with us but, thankfully, only ended up using all of them collectively for the first half an hour.

The canyon floor is a distant down from Alcove's start high on a plateau.
The canyon floor is a distant down from Alcove’s start high on a plateau.

Although Alcove Spring is a nearly 12-mile trek, I don’t believe that’s what keeps people from attempting it. Its path descends 1,300 feet down a cliff face into a canyon rather abruptly. Afterward, the trail compensates for its initial stimulation with a large heap of monotony as it wanders through a wash for most of the rest of its duration. This wash is relatively flat but is as full of bothersome sand as boredom.

Moses and Zeus have been engaged in a patient conversation for thousands of years.
Moses and Zeus have been engaged in a patient conversation for thousands of years.

Since Alcove’s 1,300-foot crag was tricky to navigate downward, the idea of going back up it was a little intimidating, but it ended up being fairly easy. (Jason may tell you something different if you care to ask him.) We ascended in just over half an hour, much better than we were expecting. The whole hike took us about six hours, putting us on the faster side of the estimated 6-7 hours. Slightly above mediocre = amazing, right?

Our impression of Alcove Spring? The scenery was pretty but not as gorgeous as other spots in Canyonlands. Moses and Zeus were cool though and didn’t require a long detour to reach. The best thing about the Alcove Spring hike was that we saw absolutely no one on it, not a single person the whole day. Yippee! I prefer my nature people-free.

Fruita was fun and Moab was predictably marvelous. We enjoyed spending some time with my family and some time in new and true parts of nature.

Tropical Revelations

Last time we traveled to Maui, we did it all. We took in many of the island’s main attractions and went home even more worn out than we started. So, when we found out Jason’s employer would be funding an island outing, our second visit to Maui, we vowed to stop and smell the tuberoses this time.

Thinking about taking a trip to Maui yourself? You need to just accept that you will have to pick and choose your own adventure on the island. You will not be able to do and see everything. In order to make your Maui experience more pleasant, I’ve decided to be marginally useful and reveal some of the activities that may not be worth a slot on your vacation timetable. Scattered throughout my rundown of our island days, I have included some comments on what Jason and I would repeat again and what we shouldn’t have bothered doing in the first place. May it guide you in your quest to make the most of Maui while not making too much of Maui.

Let me begin my string of pearls with this wisdom: one of our key mistakes last time was not making time for food. Maui has many tempting dining spots. Don’t skip out on them because you are too busy hiking volcanos and gallivanting through paradise. Remember, good food is paradise.

On a completely unrelated and totally useless note, it was hard to pack for Maui in the middle of winter. I couldn’t even remember what summer clothes I owned, but that was a small price to pay for an exotic break from a bleak season.

Day 1: Layovers with Nick

Too Much Travel

Our vacation began with a long day of travel, including a layover at LAX.

Nick’s Fishmarket

We ate dinner with a large group of Jason’s starving coworkers at Nick’s Fishmarket. Calamari come to momma!

What would I change? Nothing. The flight you can’t avoid, and Nick’s Fishmarket you shouldn’t avoid.

Day 2: A Whale of a Time

Running Ashore

We started off our morning with a run along the beach. We should have started it much earlier. Humidity is not cool!

Whale Watching

In the middle of winter, thousands of humpback whales congregate around the Hawaiian Islands. We went out with Makai Adventures on a small boat, accompanied by some friends, hoping to see a few of these ocean beasts; we encountered over 30. We spotted both adults and calves flipping tails, waiving pectorals, and generally showing off. Many of them were curious about us and interested in getting closer to our vessel. A hydrophone dunked just a few feet into the water picked up their song. Whale songs, we learned, are unique to regions and change a little from year to year, just as styles change. Whales are pretty trendy.

Out of all the exciting whale bits we spied, this head thrilled me the most.
Out of all the exciting whale bits we spied, this head thrilled me the most.

Lahaina Grill

Lahaina Grill has been voted one of the top 25 restaurants in the U.S. the last four years in a row. So, we happily joined some friends in sampling its famous cuisine. The service at Lahaina Grill was impeccable and the fare scrumptious. (One member of our group sucked up eight glasses of soda during dinner, and his cup never went dry.) I’d recommend the wagyu beef ravioli. I know it is tempting to eat fish for every meal when in Hawaii, but this ravioli is worth interrupting that prudent strategy for.

What would I change? This was a fantastic day! I’d do the run much earlier to avoid the heat, but that would be my only alteration. As a bit of information, Makai Adventures has their customers remove their shoes on their boats. That might matter to you if you have a toenail phobia.

Lahaina's banyan tree is the largest in the United States. Its 17 massive trunks and maze of aerial roots take up a whole block.
Lahaina’s banyan tree is the largest in the United States. Its 17 massive trunks and maze of aerial roots take up a whole block.

Day 3: Hana Here We Come!

We woke up at 5:45 chipper and ready to hit the road… okay, we hit the snooze until about 6:00, but it was early. Our primary purpose in riding to Hana was to hike through a bamboo forest on the Pipiwai Trail in the Kipahulu portion of Haleakala National Park, a path we started out on during our last visit to Hana but ran out of daylight to complete. Although our main goal was worthy, we still stopped for some lovely distractions along our route.

Ke’anae Arboretum

A rainbow eucalyptus grove and taro fields provided a peaceful place to stretch our legs.

Ke’anae Peninsula

This jutting rock finger is surrounded by sharp boulders and swift currents. Its 160-year-old stone church was the only structure to survive a tsunami that hit back in 1946. Both the church and shore are worth exploring, but this is not a place to explore the water.

Koki Beach

We stopped briefly to take in this picturesque cove with its crimson sand and coconut-topped island.

Koki Beach looked like quintessential paradise.
Koki Beach looked like quintessential paradise.

Pipiwai Trail

Our last time in Maui, we trekked a portion of the Pipiwai Trail, the section up to Makahiku Falls, but we missed the best parts: the bamboo forest and Waimoka Falls. We wandered it all this time. The bamboo forest was incredible. When the wind blew, the stems clanged like wind chimes or pebbles rolling down a hill. The breeze would also make the tops undulate like waves in a leafy ocean. All our senses were immersed in the forest’s serenity. Waimoka Falls, the trail’s endpoint, a frothy veil tumbling off a 400-foot cliff, was dazzling too.

Parts of the Pipiwai Trail looked like the set of an exotic jungle flick.
Parts of the Pipiwai Trail looked like the set of an exotic jungle flick.
The bamboo on the Pipiwai Trail swayed with the currents of its sky ocean.
The bamboo on the Pipiwai Trail swayed with the currents of its sky ocean.

Local Fruit

On our return journey, we devoured some locally-grown apple bananas and guavas from an obliging stand.

With our limited halts, we got back from our road trip just in time to join Jason’s coworkers for a luau on the beach. We enjoyed some Hawaiian music, and I learned a little hula alongside many members of our group. What would I change about this day? Nothing. I enjoyed all of our stops, especially the Pipiwai Trail. Incidentally, I would recommend spending time on the Pipiwai Trail over the Seven Sacred Pools. Also, if you’re doing the road to Hana, don’t expect to be able to stop at too many places along the way. Pick your top priorities; you can’t do it all.

Day 4: Sea and Sky

Polo Beach

We spent some time in the morning just relaxing, dipping our feet in the water, and reading books.

Polo Beach is small, but it's a favorite of ours.
Polo Beach is small, but it’s a favorite of ours.

Helicopter Tour

In the afternoon, we took a helicopter ride through west Maui and south Moloka’i. This was spectacular! The Moloka’i sea cliffs, the highest in the world, dropped 3,315 feet of awesome on us. We also got an aerial view of the largest coral reef in the United States and four or five wandering whales. Flying through the deeply-riveted gorges of the Iao Valley was another flight highlight.

Helicopter outings are expensive, but we thought the West Maui and Moloka’i Tour was worth the money. I would recommend Blue Hawaiian and their Eco-Star helicopters.

Turtle Island, just off the coast of Moloka'i, was one of the many wonders we whirled above.
Turtle Island, just off the coast of Moloka’i, was one of the many wonders we whirled above.
The Moloka'i sea cliffs were drastic and dramatic.
The Moloka’i sea cliffs were drastic and dramatic.
The Iao Valley's dense vegetation doesn't conceal its abrupt curves.
The Iao Valley’s dense vegetation doesn’t conceal its abrupt curves.

Day 5: Picture Paradise

Beached Again

We spent an hour or two in the early afternoon on the beach reading books and soaking in the water again. That day, the ocean hitting Polo Beach was amidst a splashy tantrum. A red flag was flying, and the waves were packing some serious energy. It was strange to see wild waters at this usually-calm spot.

Secret Photography

In the afternoon, we did a 4-hour sunset photography workshop with Douglas Hoffman. We went to Secret Beach and Makena End. Those same peculiarly-robust swells made for some great pictures.

Secret Beach was the first stop on our photography tour.
Secret Beach was the first stop on our photography tour.
This was one of the hundreds of pictures I took at Makena End during our photo tour.
This was one of the hundreds of pictures I took at Makena End during our photo tour.

Ko

We finished the evening with dinner at Ko. Everything was delicious, but the complimentary breads served with edamame hummus, Korean chili sauce, and lavender honey butter were my favorite part of the meal.

What would I change? Nothing. The food was great, and the photography tour was a unique way to capture some memories.

Day 6: Fishy Highways

The King’s Highway

Our final day on the island, we got up early to hike the King’s Highway, an ancient path through austere lava fields that was once reserved for royalty. The sharp lava stones comprising and surrounding this trail seemed intent on continuing their molten ways for they were radiating heat despite the early hour.

The King's Highway wanders across a 500-year-old volcanic flow. Centuries after being covered by lava, the land is still barren.
The King’s Highway wanders across a 500-year-old volcanic flow. Centuries after being covered by lava, the land is still barren.

Coconut’s Fish Cafe

We ate fish tacos at Coconuts’ Fish Café for lunch, our favorite fish tacos of the entire trip. Cheap and delicious make an excellent combination.

Maui Tropical Plantation

This agricultural acreage offered insights into farming on the island and opportunities to add more beautiful shots to the thousands I’d already taken.

Ho’okipa Beach

We stopped at this beach to try to catch some sea turtles being sleepy. We were rewarded with 23 napping reptiles, including a baby.

Sea turtles frequently come to Ho'okipa Beach to take an afternoon snooze.
Sea turtles frequently come to Ho’okipa Beach to take an afternoon snooze.

Paia Fish Market

Before catching our flight home, we gobbled fish tacos again, this time from the Paia Fish Market. These were also excellent, but we liked Coconut’s catch better. (And no, you can never have too many fish tacos.)

If you hike the Kings Highway, do it early in the morning. Parking spots fill up fast, and the lava rocks feel like jagged blow dryers. Of our final-day adventures, Maui Tropical Plantation would have been the easiest to skip; it was relaxing though, and you can wander around the grounds for free.

Our opinion of Maui based on our second stay? While Maui still remains our least favorite of the Hawaiian Islands we’ve visited, this vacation felt more like a vacation and less like a marathon in paradise. May your journeys to Maui be equally full of tuberose sniffing.