Login

Into Africa Part IV: Safari Tips for South Africa

I’ve already shared the wonders of our African adventures now let me share some wonderful logistical tips. I had a lot of concerns regarding our safari since I wasn’t sure what to expect or what precautions needed to be taken. It was way out of my comfort zone and sphere of knowledge. Now, I have a gumball-sized sphere of knowledge on the subject to share. Don’t worry, it hasn’t already been chewed.

I should point out that these tips may not all be relevant for safaris in all parts of Africa; Africa is a large and diverse continent. They should be useful for South Africa, particularly the Sabi Sand Reserve. And if you happen to be headed to Ulusaba in February, this information might be just about perfect.

a petite pachyderm
Elephants were my favorite beasts we encountered.

Malaria

When I first discovered malaria is endemic in Sabi Sand, I freaked out a bit. Since malaria pills make about a third of users sick in one way or another, I wasn’t super excited about taking them. I wasn’t keen on experiencing Africa while also experiencing diarrhea, delusions, or frank psychosis. After doing some research, Jason and I decided to have malaria pills on hand but not take them until we could determine if we would find any mosquitos in Ulusaba. This was a prudent choice because neither Jason nor I got bitten even once. We only encountered mosquitos briefly while driving in areas near water, and a thick layer of repellant was enough to keep them from snacking. We didn’t see any at the lodge.

There are several malaria prophylaxes available. The best one to use varies based on the region you are visiting. For South Africa, the most-commonly recommended is Malarone. The CDC provides information on their website about country-specific malaria risks and medications.

While only you can decide if a malaria prescription makes sense for you when heading into the bush, remember that malaria pills aren’t 100% effective in preventing the disease. So, regardless of whether you take medication, you’ll want to thwart bites. Here are some safeguards you can take to keep from being a mosquito’s meal:

  • Wear Insect Shield clothing. It’s permeated with a permanent and odorless insect repellant.
  • Wear pants. This will also keep your legs from getting burned while you are sitting in a vehicle for hours.
  • Treat your attire with permethrin before you leave on vacation. Permethrin spray stays on clothing for about six washes. As an added bonus, both Insect Shield and permethrin keep ticks away too, and you will likely encounter plenty of those.
  • Wear a hefty dose of insect repellant. This one should be obvious.
  • Sleep with mosquito netting around your bed. Many safari lodges, like Ulusaba, already have netting in place.

Vaccines

It is likely you will need to get some vaccines before traveling to Africa. What vaccines are necessary depends on where you are going. Our health department recommended Jason and I get MMR (measles, mumps, and rubella) boosters and hepatitis A and typhoid vaccines. The CDC link above provides vaccination suggestions for different travel destinations, along with its information on malaria. Keep in mind, you will need to get your vaccines about a month before your trip to guarantee full protection. Don’t be thinking you can stop by the doctor’s office on the way to the airport.

a swanky scavenger
There are countless fascinating creatures to see on safari beyond the Big Five.

Attire

Never before has what to wear on vacation preoccupied so much thought as when we were planning our safari. If you don’t already have a significant amount of greens and khakis in your wardrobe, you may want to purchase some. Why khaki and green? You will blend into the background, and the animals will think you are just another tree or termite hill, I guess. If you don’t want to purchase foliage-colored frocks, don’t wear bright colors at the very least. And a word of caution on blacks and dark blues, it is not a myth that the flies in Africa are attracted to these hues. The flies are annoying. Don’t wear blacks and deep blues.

We were at Ulusaba for three days, and I only used a portion of the clothes I brought. You too will probably require less apparel than you think. What would I recommend packing in way of safari attire?

  • Two pairs of pants, one of these should zip off into shorts
  • A pair of sandals, you will wear these more than tennis shoes
  • Two t-shirts or other short-sleeved shirts
  • A long-sleeved shirt, it can get cold on early and late drives even if it is blistering in the middle of the day
  • A jacket
  • A wide-brimmed hat
  • A pair of lightweight tennis shoes

Most lodges, including Ulusaba, provide free laundry services. You don’t have to be stuck smelling like safari funk.

Unless you are going to be spending significant time walking around in the bush, hiking shoes are probably not a good use of luggage space or weight. For our hour-long bush walk, I just wore tennis shoes, and they worked fine.

While you could get rained on, you may or may not need to pack a poncho. Ulusaba had the nicest ponchos I’ve ever used available for guests. Check with your lodge before bringing a poncho or other potentially unnecessary items.

misconstrued cubs
Hyenas are interesting animals that don’t deserve their negative reputation.

Packing

I am an overly-prepared person. Being overly prepared for our safari while only carting limited pounds of luggage was difficult but obligatory. Flights into remote lodges are not aboard Boeing 707s or anything with more than one propeller usually. We lucked out with our Federal Airlines’ flight. Our 10-seat plane was fairly comfortable and had air conditioning. Apparently, this is about as posh as these little aircrafts get. Still, we had a weight limit on our bags. So, leave the bricks at home, or put them in your carryon.

Also note, on some of these flights, hard-sided and/or roller luggage may not fit or even be allowed. Some charter flights only permit duffel bags. We thought it better to just pack in duffel bags in case, a precaution that wasn’t necessary for our particular flight. Still, better safe than bagless. Make sure you know the weight and size restrictions of your flights.

Duffel bags are mostly fine to travel with. The main problem with them is that they are too flexible to protect anything from getting smashed. To remedy this, we bought plastic crayon boxes and used them to keep sunscreen tubes from squirting everywhere and souvenirs from being crushed, a solution that worked well.

Photography

I am a professional photographer, so these tips may not apply to selfie takers. I took over 2,600 pictures while in South Africa. The vast majority of these I shot on our drives with a telephoto lens (100-400mm). This is the lens you will likely use for 90% of drive pictures. If you don’t have one, they can be rented from many lodges with advance notice.

Dust is not a friend of camera equipment. I kept it out of mine by covering my camera with a microfiber yoga towel while holding the SLR on my lap for easy access. I also took two camera bodies and had my regular (24-105mm) lens on the other body; I didn’t want to have to change lenses while out on a drive.

Our vehicle had plenty of room for a smaller backpack to be kept at our feet. We used it to carry a few extra things like a tripod. My tripod didn’t get used much, but it proved handy for taking shots of our vehicle and all its passengers.

a spotted spotting
Leopards can be hard to find, but we found them frequently.

Friends

If you have adventurous friends, take them on safari with you. A group of chums is a highly useful item to pack on your expedition. Our vehicle was filled with buddies, and it made the drives even more satisfying. Of course, your safari could be an opportunity to make new friends.

Insects

The wilds of Africa are full of life, including bugs. You will most likely consume fancy meals outside while on your safari. Beetles will be sharing your table with you. Just accept that and things will go a lot smoother for you.

Bathrooms

I feel this bears mentioning for the picky poopers out there. You need not fear when traveling to South Africa. The bathrooms in that country are tidier than the ones in the United States on average. Many of them even have attendants who are engaged in constant cleaning.

What about bathrooms in the bush? The bad news is that there are no bathrooms on the game drives. The good news is that you probably won’t be eaten by an animal if you have to relieve yourself during a drive. The tinklers in our group all urinated in safety, but I’d bring your own toilet paper if I were you.

That concludes my safari advice. With a little preparation, your expedition will likely be one of the most memorable experiences of your life.

Rachel May 8, 2019 No Comments

Biking in Moab: A Guide for the Practical Nature Lover

I am a Moab enthusiast. My husband and I have been traveling to Moab twice a year for almost a decade. In this post, I will be giving practical tips for mountain bikers visiting Moab. It’s my wordy shout-out to my favorite desert destination.

Before I begin my lengthy advice, let me congratulate you on your consideration of Moab. You are as wise as you are wise. Second, let me warn you. If you don’t already know that you need to take plenty of water and slather on sunscreen before heading out into the desert on a two-wheeled contraption, this blog post is not for you. (I’d recommend Common Sense in the Outdoors 101.) Or if you prefer to zoom through unbelievably beautiful terrain like you’re in a race, this post won’t apply. These tips are for the nature lover that happens to love nature best from the seat of a bike. Now, with that covered, let’s move on to my oh-so-helpful guidance.

Much of the desert surrounding Moab is so intensely colored it looks fabricated.
Much of the desert surrounding Moab is so intensely colored it looks fabricated.

How do you get to Moab?

The same way you get anywhere. You jump in a car and drive or you fly. Salt Lake City, along with its expansive airport, is only about a four-hour drive from Moab. Moab has a small airport but it’s very small. If you don’t have your own plane, then Salt Lake City is a much better option. Be aware that the section of Utah between Salt Lake City and Moab does not represent the terrain of the state as a whole. Parts of it are really quite homely and I’m embarrassed to include them in the irregular hexagon I call home. Also, keep in mind that if you are flying for any portion of your journey, you don’t need to worry about packing a bike. (Overhead bin?) There are a whole slew of places to rent cycles in Moab.

Do I need to make hotel reservations in advance to stay in Moab?

Yes, yes, YES! In fact, making reservations a couple months beforehand is not a bad idea. Definitely don’t expect to just roll into town and find a place to stay on the fly, unless you’re keen on car snoozing. There are a number of locations to camp around Moab too but, frankly, mountain biking in the desert is a messy affair. Nothing is quite as necessary, or as delightful, as a warm shower after an intense day of sandy cycling. Therefore, although we like to camp, when we are in Moab we stick to lodgings with non-mobile walls.

Canyonlands National Park is just a quick ride from Moab.
Canyonlands National Park is just a quick ride from Moab.

Are there a lot of biking options around Moab? I’ve only heard of Slickrock.

I’ve probably spent about 50 days biking and hiking in Moab since I’ve been married and the only trail I’ve biked more than once is Slickrock, which my husband and I have done three or four times. The path possibilities are really a little overwhelming because so many of them are so delicious. That’s one of the reasons we keep coming back, to make ourselves feel better about what we just can’t get to each time.

Are the biking trails in the area easy to find?

Some are a cinch to find and some are harder to locate than a belly button on a caterpillar. Jason and I have purchased a few guides to biking in Moab to make trail detecting easier. With so many paths in the area that crisscross and evaporate, I would highly recommend you do the same. We like FalconGuides or Rider Mel’s. On that note, be mindful that the ride times listed in these books are typically way off unless you are a diehard that doesn’t care about stopping for lunch, pictures or breath. If you appreciate scenery and snack breaks, doubling the times given in these guides should leave you lots of wiggle room.

If you like photography, you'll love Moab.
If you like photography, you’ll love Moab.

Are all of the biking trails around Moab extreme and difficult?

No, the only thing all of Moab’s biking paths have in common is their remarkable setting. No matter what your skill level, you can find trails right for you. Plus, even the more difficult routes can be handled by those less experienced if they are in decent physical condition and have the common sense to walk their bikes on the sections that are way too challenging for their abilities. The only path I wouldn’t even recommend walking a bike on is the Portal Trail. Three cyclists have died there and squeezing across its tiny brim is intimidating enough without trying to hang onto a bike. If you feel inclined to check it out, I’d suggest going sans cycle.

Be aware when choosing trails that mileage alone is not a good indication of exertion required, especially when sand is involved. You may ride a mile in sand at a barely perceptible pace and feel like you’ve run a marathon. Remember, many of the impressive rock formations around Moab are made out of sandstone, which isn’t called that for nothing. Know what to expect from a trail before you expend all of your emergency energy reserves, the ones only for running from a T. rex or saving Ferris, wading through the maw of some gritty beast or scaling up an incline even a mountain goat would snub.

The hiking options around Moab are as numerous as the biking ones.
The hiking options around Moab are as numerous as the biking ones.

When is the best time to go to Moab?

Not the summer! Moab is a desert and July and August there range from miserable to deadly, especially if you are pedaling about like a mad person. We like to go between mid-September and mid-November in the fall and between mid-March and mid-June in the spring. If you do find yourself in Moab when it is roasting, I would recommend biking in the La Sal Mountains instead of on the desert plateaus. You will miss some of Moab’s most unique scenery but you’ll also miss expiring from heat exhaustion.

If you timed your trip just right, from the middle of March to the middle of April, you could actually have the best outdoor vacation of your life. You could spend some time snowboarding or skiing near Salt Lake City and then drive a few hours down to Moab for some fabulous mountain biking. We’ve snowboarded on three feet of fresh powder one day in Park City and biked in 70s perfection in Moab the next. Life doesn’t get any better. I mean that.

I don’t want to starve for 40 days out in the desert? What about lunch?

Almost all of the eateries around town do lunches to go. These establishments are used to their clients being the impatient-to-get-out-there type. Our favorite place to pick up lunch and breakfast at the same time is the Love Muffin Café but there are numerous options for this in Moab.

This was taken during one of those magical sunset moments.
This was taken during one of those magical sunset moments.

Any photography suggestions?

There are five to ten minutes of light magic that happen as the sun is setting on Moab’s red rock. The stone smolders in the sinking glow. It’s practically impossible to get a bad picture during this brief period. If you see the rock start blazing, stop whatever you are doing and start shooting. You will be amazed at what you can capture.

Any other random tips?

If you plan on biking multiple days, please keep your tush in mind. Yes, your tush. Mountain biking in Moab is really bumpy. If you aren’t used to that rattle, or if you’re taking your bike out for the first time since winter’s tantrums, your butt is going to throb after a day on the saddle. Getting back on your seat the next day will feel like a cactus to the crotch. We like to give our backsides a break with a day of hiking sandwiched in between our two biking days. This doesn’t always alleviate the pains in our arses but it does help.

Moab, despite its familiarity, always feels like an adventure to me. It’s that perfect mix of gorgeousness and exhilaration you wish you could find on a dating site. My final bit of advice? Get to Moab and ride!

Rachel August 10, 2015 No Comments

From Roxy to Woody

It’s hard to say goodbye to an old friend, especially when that friend has carried you through many highs and lows, from dipping arid wastelands to lofty peaks. When that buddy has been a part of the happiest adventures of your life, separating from them is painful.

Jason and I purchased my trusty Mazda Protégé, Roxy, used shortly after we got married. Before we bought her we were sharing a car, which was highly inconvenient since my workday started at 5:00 AM and his began a few hours later in the opposite direction. We had to come up with an elaborate drop off scheme to get to our jobs. Needless to say, we were extremely grateful for a second car. We purchased Roxy for very little but, to a couple of poor newlyweds, she was the height of sophistication. With power windows, electric door locks, cruise control, and comfy seats she felt like a Rolls-Royce to us. Over the years Roxy proved herself far more valuable than her cheap price tag would suggest. Besides a couple of small AC and CV joint repairs, she never really asked us for anything so I was in no hurry to swap her. Although most of our friends kept changing vehicles and nagging us about trading up, I was prepared to hold onto that car until her bumper fell off but I guess all good things must eventually end.

It's hard to believe that these dings represent $1600.
It’s hard to believe that these dings represent $1600.

Roxy was aging very well but Jason and I decided a couple of years ago that we should start saving for a new vehicle since there was no telling when she’d begin to break down. We intended on replacing her roughly sometime this winter. This plan sounded reasonable in theory but Jason may not have ever been able to convince me to go through with it if it hadn’t been for an especially snowy winter day. That particular December morning I-15 hadn’t been plowed even though about 4 inches of snow had accumulated on it. Jason was driving Roxy to work and, like most of the other commuters, he was moving at only 15 MPH due to the slick conditions but, leisurely pace notwithstanding, about halfway through his travels he suddenly started sliding into an adjacent lane. Despite his best efforts, there was just no going back. He ended up hitting a large truck that was inconveniently in the exact spot Roxy was destined to occupy. Roxy only had cosmetic damage from this incident but it was enough dints and dings to total her. Rather than paying to fix her up, we decided we’d keep her until she hit 200,000 miles, a target she was quickly approaching, and then sell her to Jason’s brother. That meant it was time to shop.

We reached 200,000 miles on Roxy with barely any repair bumps along the way.
We reached 200,000 miles on Roxy with barely any repair bumps along the way.

Jason and I are not the type of people that purchase cars on a whim. We look up as much information as possible on the vehicle class we are considering and then we test drive like crazy, examine additional figures, and ponder some more. This style of shopping is time-consuming but it has served us well. Since we’ve been extremely happy with the cars we’ve purchased using this method, we weren’t about to alter our system. Hence, it took us months to decide what we wanted to buy this time.

Our new vehicle needed to be a small or crossover SUV with 4WD or AWD. We were done skating on freeways and we wanted something hardier for our biking/snowboarding adventures. We were also looking for a car with good gas mileage that was little enough to fit easily into our cramped garage. Room to load up our bikes and boards was also a requirement. We are usually used car people, new cars really are a waste of money, but in this particular case, with our specialized needs, we found that the contenders in the used arena were pretty limited and not much cheaper. We realized that in order to get what we wanted we’d have to buy new.

As we began searching lots of spanking new vehicles, we discovered that it’s harder to shop for a new car than a used one. With new cars the selection is plentiful and the options are many: makes, models, colors, innards…we were a bit overloaded. After weeks of researching and test driving, we finally focused our attention on the Subaru Outback and Forester. We debated back and forth between these two for days but in the end I just couldn’t say no to the Forester’s large windows and spacious interior. (And Jason just can’t say no to me.) So the 2014 2.5i Limited Forester it was. The 2014 model, which has improved gas mileage, better torque, a streamlined exterior, and a swankier interior compared to the 2013, had only been shipped in restricted quantities to dealers two days earlier. Ours wasn’t even technically on the dealer’s lot when we bought it. We had the distinction of owning the only 2014 Forester on the road in Utah when we drove that baby home, a distinction I’m sure we’ve already long lost at this point. It’s barely 2013 so it doesn’t make sense that the 2014 is available at all; just try not to think about it too much. I’ve named our Forester Woodford, or Woody for short. (It’s a Forester and its name is Woody. Get it?) I love how open this SUV feels with its giant windows and huge sunroof. Woody already has quite the fan in me.

Woody is a cute and friendly car. He's just what I was looking for.
Woody is a cute and friendly car. He’s just what I was looking for.

But alas, with Woody purchased it was time to part ways with Roxy. Jason’s little brother was very excited about having a car of his own; however, I wasn’t very excited about letting her go. I’m only a little ashamed to say that before we dropped Roxy off at his house I cried. I know, with my many layers of sarcasm and constant teasing, I don’t seem like the sentimental type but deep in this complicated heart is plenty of emotional turbulence that usually emerges at embarrassing times.

Roxy has not only been a very reliable car but she’s been part of a lot of wonderful memories. My whole married life, which has been extraordinarily happy, has passed in the presence of that vehicle. Her aging is a reminder of just how much time has elapsed for me as well. Where have the years gone? It was hard to say goodbye. I’m sure Matt will take good care of her and she’ll be as dependable a friend to him as she was to me but I’ll miss her still. Here’s to Roxy! My classy girl that has far outlasted many “superior” vehicles!

Roxy is my kind of girl: steady, comfy, small but gutsy.
Roxy is my kind of girl: steady, comfy, small but gutsy.

A post script: I miss the straightforwardness of older vehicles. What happened to the days when a power door lock was as fancy as it got? When you would turn the heat on if you got cold and the AC if you got hot. Now cars practically do everything automatically, even if you’d rather they didn’t, and there are so many knobs on their control panels that you need to pass a NASA course just to figure out how to adjust your radio stations. It’s funny how complicated we’ve made “simplicity.”

And what’s up with recent car models’ tiny windows? So many of the vehicles we test drove had such small windows that you could barely see the road from their stuffy interiors. They made me feel like I was driving around in a coffin. Claustrophobics of the world unite! Sure, from the outside their designs looked sleek but I think I’d prefer being able to see traffic to having aerodynamic windows. Carmakers, let’s not sacrifice functionality and practicality just so our vehicles can look like spaceships. Remember: the only flying cars can do currently is into pavement so it would be nice to be able to see that pavement before takeoff.

Rachel March 13, 2013 7 Comments
 Categories

Recent Posts

Recent Comments
Blogroll