A Monumental Adventure

This year’s anniversary festivities fell to me for the planning. I’ve been curious about Monument Valley for years. On this occasion, as it often does, curiosity got the better of me. So, Jason and I were soon off on a monumental adventure.

Balanced Rock
A rock can be balanced by a bow.

We stopped at Arches National Park on our way to Monument Valley. I was hoping to photograph the slew of wildflowers anticipated after Utah’s unusually wet winter and spring, but the blossoms were just starting to pop out. Arches was far from a photographic bust though. I happened to be shooting Balanced Rock at sunset when a double rainbow unexpectedly materialized over it. Shot score!

Run Forrest!
You may recognize this hill from a famous running scene.

The following day, we proceeded into the middle of nowhere because nowhere is exactly where Monument Valley is located. Although remote, the drive to Monument Valley passes some stimulating scenery like Mexican Hat, a massive rock that looks like a sombrero stuck upside down.

Goulding's
Goulding’s Trading Post Museum makes for an interesting interruption.

Before heading into Monument Valley, we stopped at the Goulding’s Trading Post Museum to learn a little about the over 100 movies that have been filmed in Monument Valley. Don’t remember any? Perhaps you recall Forrest Gump, Back to the Future III, National Lampoon’s Vacation, The Lone Ranger, Mission: Impossible II, Wild Wild West, and Starman? Four John Wayne movies placed Monument Valley on the cinematic map and countless others have kept it there.

West Mitten Butte
Most hiking in Monument Valley requires a guide. The Wildcat Trail is an exception.

Monument Valley is a mystifying mix of fantastic buttes and crowds. The nine stops you can make on the 17-mile Valley Drive without a guide are gorgeous but might test your patience. They may be packed with tourists taking 50 pictures of themselves doing the exact same jump over and over again in front of a butte you are waiting to photograph. (Yup, that happened, and no, 50 isn’t an exaggeration.) If you want to avoid the surplus throngs, I’d recommend using your feet.

John Ford's Point
This overlook in Monument Valley is named after John Ford, the Hollywood director that made Monument Valley legendary.

There are only a couple places you can hike without a guide in Monument Valley. One of them is the Wildcat Trail that circles the West Mitten Butte. Despite the masses at the visitor center, we saw exactly seven people and two equestrians on this four-mile trek. Hallelujah for hominid lethargy!

Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei
Buttes erode into pointy beauties.
Three Sisters
Spring flowers bloomed around the Three Sisters.

Our last day in Southeastern Utah began with a visit to the Bluff Fort Historic Site. Bluff is a tiny town of 320 surrounded by a challenging landscape. Its fort was the first Anglo settlement in the Four Corners region. These initial settlers came from Escalante in 1880 via the Hole in the Rock Trail. Their story is pretty remarkable. The recreations and restorations at the fort are maintained with obvious pride and love. It’s a great place not only to gather historical tidbits but also information on points of interest in the area. The staff is knowledgeable and plenty of maps are available. As an added bonus, admission is free.

North Window
The only unguided driving one can do in Monument Valley is on a loop with just nine stops. Each one is magnificent though.

The rest of our day was packed with Native art and ancient structures. We stopped at the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel first. This panel is easy to access and continues for more than 100 yards. It features varied rock art between 800 and 2,500 years old.

Wolfman Panel
The Wolfman Panel is distinct and sophisticated… and a distinct reminder that humans are often disappointing creatures. Bullet holes? What the!

Next, we visited three ruins and some petroglyphs along Butler Wash, which is now part of the Shash Jaa Unit of Bears Ears National Monument. Through Butler Wash many archeological sites can be accessed. We chose to investigate the Wolfman Petroglyph Panel with its nearby edifices, Split Level Ruin, and Monarch Cave Ruins.

Wolfman's den
We encountered pictographs, petroglyphs, metates, and pottery shards at the ruins we visited.

Although we hiked to three ruins, none of them felt like repeats. The ones near the Wolfman Panel contained a number of compartments. Split Level included hand pictographs and petroglyphs. Monarch’s curved structure reminded us of the buildings at Hovenweep National Monument. None of the required climbs were particularly long, ranging from about a mile to just over two, but we were rained on repeatedly at surprising moments during our treks.

Monarch Cave Ruins
Rain dampened our weekend numerous times, especially during our trek to Monarch Cave.

Our trip to Monument Valley encompassed areas beyond that epic basin. We explored many parts of Southeastern Utah previously unseen. You don’t have to journey across the world to experience new things; just around the four corners wonders await.

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