Tacos, Torpedoes, and Old Towns

San Diego is California’s second-most-populated city and its oldest. You had me at sunshine. Wait, did I skip that part? San Diego has a Mediterranean climate, so its sunshine is as plentiful as its people. Jason and I recently traveled to those unclouded shores again and enjoyed 75 degrees while it was significantly less than 75 degrees back home. Our many past visits to San Diego didn’t make choosing where to spend our time any easier. We ended up occupying a few days collectively at some places that could have eaten up several days each. Plus, we ate a lot, as in an amount that requires a long-winded paragraph to cover.

the boat's brain
The Midway’s computer was installed in 1963 and was 17,000 times slower than modern machines.

The seafood and Mexican cuisine options in San Diego are like a tidal wave hitting a tamale stand the size of a football stadium. How does one choose between them? Oh, the gastrointestinal conflict! The culinary drama! Why not gorge on both? We dined at La Puerta, voted one of the top 10 places to get a taco in the United States. Based off our meal, it deserves that prestige. We also ate at El Agave, an old favorite of ours. The Taco Stand provided yet another tasty serving of tacos; Jason and I are still debating if that tastiness outweighed the wait though. For seafood, we feasted at Top of the Market where the crab cakes and Key lime panna cotta were the best part of the meal. We didn’t skimp on dessert elsewhere either. We ate handmade ice cream at Salt and Straw not once but twice. It could have been 27 times, but we have impressive self-control. Donut Bar, claimed to have the world’s most award-winning donuts, also intrigued us. However, by the time we visited at noon, only the sickly-sweet varieties were left. Therefore, Jason and I concluded we’d rate some of the donut shops in Portland higher. We would be happy to perform another taste test at Donut Bar to ascertain if our initial conclusion was correct. We also consumed pancakes and breakfast tacos at Snooze AM Eatery. Limiting taco intake to just two meals a day seems entirely unnecessary. Why so many sentences devoted to the discussion of consumption? I like food.

flight at night
The Midway carried 100 aircrafts at its peak.
globs of knobs
What did all these knobs do? No idea. How did someone remember what they all did? No idea.

Although devouring excellent eats did take up a surprising amount of time, we sandwiched other activities between meals. We spent a few hours aboard the USS Midway, an aircraft carrier with the capacity to accommodate over 130 aircrafts. Midway was commissioned in 1945 and was the largest ship in the world at the time. To me, the Midway felt both monstrously huge and cramped all at once. I only managed to tackle a fraction of the exhibits, but don’t worry, I still significantly augmented the useless-facts portion of my brain. Did you know SOS stands for save our ship?

California Tower
The California Tower was built in 1915 for the Panama-California Exposition celebrating the completion of the Panama Canal.

The following day, we went on a photography tour of Old Town and Balboa Park. Not only did we learn some fascinating historical tidbits (There were no trees in San Diego when the first Spaniards arrived.), but I got some classic shots of the architecture in Balboa Park’s 1,200 acres. Not familiar with Balboa Park? Here are some useless facts to expand your brain: Balboa Park was one of the first places devoted to public recreation in the United States and is larger than New York City’s Central Park by almost 400 acres. That acreage is filled with 17 museums, a zoo, bowling greens, multiple gardens, a Shakespearean theater, a puppet theater, a gymnasium, an organ pavilion, and restaurants. The graceful archways and clay roof tiles of Balboa’s Spanish Colonial Revival architecture afforded perfect framing and contrast to a lapis sky; the picture possibilities seemed inexhaustible.

Spanish Colonial Revival
Balboa Park’s Spanish Colonial Revival architecture sparked a trend throughout the country.
a steady blur
A tripod and a steady subject can change motion.

One of Balboa Park’s attractions is the renowned San Diego Zoo. We hadn’t revisited the zoo in over a decade. With temperatures in the 70s, spending time outside was a must. This made the zoo an easy choice. The San Diego Zoo is home to over 650 species of animals. It also contains a plethora of paths that overlap frequently, which sometimes makes figuring out where you are at less than easy. We wandered along the Monkey Trail, Scripps Aviary, parts of the Park Way, and the Eagle Trail. We didn’t know where we were headed a large share of the time, but we encountered many animals that we’d never heard of and old favorites along our mysterious route.

Woman of Tehuantepec
“Woman of Tehuantepec” was sculpted by Donal Hord and has been in Balboa Park since 1935.

The San Diego Zoo accommodates 27 types of monkey and various other primates; these were some of our favorites of the day. The bonobo, often called the pygmy chimpanzee, is an endangered species of great ape and the most intriguing creature we encountered at the zoo. It is believed to be humans’ closest relative with a developed brain capable of empathy and recognizing affliction in others. In full disclosure, we did witness one of these intelligent animals sample its own feces. But, if humans didn’t wear pants and eating your own excrement wasn’t socially forbidden, you might try a turd too.

a red-tailed monkey
What has a red tail and a cute little baby? That red-tailed monkey.

On our last day in San Diego, we went back for one more taste of Old Town. Along with watching some colorful Folklorico dancing performed for free at the Fiesta de Reyes, we learned about the difficulties of stagecoach travel at the Wells Fargo Museum and the Seeley Stable Museum. We also visited the Mormon Battalion Historic Site, which provided another perspective on San Diego’s early days.

a bonobo
Bonobos and common chimpanzees are humans’ nearest relatives.
polars to people
Polar bears may exceed 10 feet when standing. Jasons may exceed six feet when standing.

Like Colonial Williamsburg, Old Town San Diego State Historic Park is a living history museum. As in Colonial Williamsburg, employees wear historical garb at Old Town. However, I did see a laptop and a couple other bits of modern technology being used by employees in Old Town, which would be occupational suicide in Colonial Williamsburg. Bygone pretentiousness comes at a cost though; unlike Colonial Williamsburg, most of the museums at Old Town are free. I’m guessing the frugal among you would happily overlook some out-of-place tech to achieve a positive impact on your pocketbook.

Old Town
Old Town is the location of the first Spanish settlement in San Diego.

San Diego filled our travel guts with delicious sustenance. We consumed tacos aplenty, sampled architecture, drank in sunshine, and gobbled trivial data. Yummy! By the way, San Diego may be California’s second-most-populated city, but it felt pleasantly deserted without the Comic-Con crowds.

Desert Points and Joints

Tucson is a prickly delicacy wrapped in a warm tortilla and smothered in sunshine sauce. In December, we visited that arid nirvana with a chunk of my family. Delicious food was eaten, 150-year-old cacti were beheld, exceptional trails were hiked, and careless kids were spiked. Here’s how the piggings and the prickings went.

drought adapters
There are around 2,000 species of cactus.

Tucson is the second-largest city in Arizona. It is encircled by five minor mountain ranges and a national park. Its bragging rights include being the first U.S. city to receive the title “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO and boasting the southernmost ski resort in the United States. We wasted no time sampling its inimitable offerings intimately.

when chollas attack
I’d be making that face too.

Jason went outside with some of the nieces and nephews to explore our first morning in Arizona. Within minutes, a nephew walked backwards into a jumping cholla, a barbed cactus known for attaching painfully onto anything near it. Although its hooks made removal more difficult than expected, Jason disconnected flesh from plant with skilled maneuvering.

short range, long life
The saguaro cactus only grows in the Sonoran Desert but lives up to 200 years.

After all those spikes were disconnected, we created opportunities for more stabbings with a hike in Saguaro National Park on portions of the Douglas Spring Trail, Converse Trail, and Garwood Trail- about 1.5 miles in total. Glorious desert!

Sabino Canyon
The Santa Catalina Mountains were created over 12 million years ago.
symbol of the Southwest
A saguaro can weigh up to 4,800 pounds and reach up to 60 feet.

Following our trek, we ate lunch at the humble looking but highly rated Baja Café. Yum! This restaurant is known for eggs benedicts and huevos rancheros. I got the Wyatt Earp, which is a grilled green chile and cheese tamale pie topped with tomatillo sauce, seared pulled pork, two strips of chipotle bacon, fire roasted green chilies, onions, tomatoes, melted cheddar and Monterey jack cheese, poached eggs, avocado hollandaise, pico de gallo, and cotija. If I didn’t just make you hungry with that run-on sentence, you may have no stomach for bad grammar. I’d highly recommend Baja Café, even if you prefer snickerdoodle pancakes to eggs benedict.

liquid magnetism
A single saguaro can absorb 200 gallons of water during just one rainstorm.

During the afternoon, we shopped at the Old Town Artisans, cute stores in downtown situated on the site of a fort built by the Spanish in 1775. Beyond offering distinctive handmade items, these shops contain remnants of original gold-leafed mouldings, wallpapers, and ceilings constructed from saguaro cactus ribs.

Beep! Beep!
It’s hard to believe roadrunners can dash up to 27 MPH on their tiny legs.
prickly and purposeful
The spines of a cactus don’t just fend off potential nibblers; they also reduce water loss by decreasing airflow around the plant.

The next day, the wind picked up quite a bit. It made the mid-fifties feel more than 50% less hospitable. However, seeing as it was 20 degrees back home, you won’t catch me ungraciously complaining here. Despite the chilly breeze, we hiked about four miles through Sabino Canyon in a convoluted loop that jumped on a number of trails including parts of Esperero, Rattlesnake, and Bluff. These took us through cactus-covered hillsides and above Sabino Creek. Appearing like a vein diffusing golden blood, the land lining Sabino Creek was covered in deciduous trees just losing their fall leaves. This ordinary gilded stipe seemed almost alien surrounded by resilient saguaros.

a superior sunset
Desert sunsets are more vibrant because of a superior spectral pureness due to cleaner and drier air.

We spent the afternoon at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. Since large sections of this museum are located outside, the chilly wind plagued us still while we observed a load of desert critters including black widows, roadrunners, bobcats, and endangered Mexican gray wolves. We learned that there are over two dozen types of rattlesnakes in the Sonoran Desert. That’s a whole lot of rattling my nerves! The museum’s Cactus Garden is notable with over 100 types of these unique plants, including rare and endangered species like the Pima pineapple.

Tucson travelers
Families are chaotic and amazing.

Our time in Tucson passed in a sunny, gusty, prickly, cheesy blast. The plates and landscapes were inspiring and the wind almost immobilizing.

Sunshine and Sisters

This fall we spent a long weekend in Moab, like we have practically done since therapods pushed their toes into its scarlet mud. On this occasion, my sister joined us, and the weather was ideal, which made the trip exactly perfect.

Longbow Arch
Longbow Arch spans 60 feet.

Although November is one of our preferred months to visit Moab, conditions can be unpredictable that time of year. Fortunately, temperatures stayed in the sixties and skies remained sunny. Thank you, Gods of Not-Quite Winter!

long but not crowded
Longbow was impressive, and we only came across a handful of hikers on its trail.

How did we make use of all that delicious sunshine? First, we hiked the 2.5 miles to Longbow Arch, a trail we had somehow never explored or even heard of. Quite a few sights are packed into this short jaunt including petroglyphs, dinosaur tracks, and the obvious arch.

three-toed marvels
When a sandstone slab crashed down from a cliff, dinosaur tracks created 150 million years ago were revealed.

The next day, we trekked two trails, Cowboy Jacuzzis and Jeep Arch. Reaching the Cowboy Jacuzzis requires under a mile each way. Mill Creek slows as it fills these rock bowls, and sunshine striking the stone heats the water to bath temperatures… well, that’s what supposedly happens during warmer times of the year. It was cooler than any bath I’d like to dip into when we were there.

Cowboy Jacuzzis
The Cowboy Jacuzzis can be accessed via a trail that starts in a residential area.

We visited Jeep Arch just a year ago, but since my sister had never been, we were disposed to enjoy this hike again. It was just as spectacular as the first time.

happy hikers
Although we had trekked to Jeep Arch recently, we were happy to tread that colorful path again.
Jeep Arch
Does this remind you of a retro Boy Scouts magazine cover? If not, we failed.

Our last day, we hiked somewhere between six and seven miles on the Amasa Back Trail with an added spur to an overlook above the Colorado River and Poison Spider Mesa. Amasa Back is a peninsula formed by a U-bend in the Colorado River. Its trail climbs to its crown. Rising 1000 feet has its advantages. At first, we were disappointed that our perspective on countless fins and dramatic cliffs from above the Colorado was marred by State Route 279 and other mementos of humanity. However, in the end, we found the ORVs and other Vs making their way up Poison Spider Mesa to be extremely entertaining, especially the unjustifiably confident ones. Our prospect also revealed the numerous layers of plateaus expanding above State Route 279 invisible from its pavement. An unfamiliar look on such a well-known motorway was fascinating.

uno mono
This monolith is one of the more interesting features along the hike to Jeep Arch.

What did we like about hiking Amasa Back? The vista from the viewpoint was unique and, surprisingly, made more interesting by its manmade touches. Also, we were able to appreciate this perspective in solitude. While the path had plenty of bikers on it until we passed the HyMasa Trail, a single-track used to access the Captain Ahab Trail, we didn’t see a single person the rest of our journey. What didn’t we like? Amasa Back is a jeep trail, which means a wider and more scuffed route.

Amasa Back
Although Amasa Back is a jeep road, we didn’t see a single vehicle.
perched above Poison Spider
We watched numerous vehicles attempt to surmount Poison Spider Mesa from our perch above the Colorado, many of them futilely.

It was great to share Moab with my sister and her hubby. Usually, it’s just me and Jason hogging the splendor to ourselves. Sunshine and sisters pair perfectly in the desert like cyanobacteria and lichens.