The Life of Death Valley

Death Valley is the hottest and driest place in North America and the biggest national park outside Alaska. Its reputation notwithstanding, it offers much beyond cracked mud, cattle skulls, and rattlesnakes. Death Valley holds both the lowest point in North America and terrain over 11,000 feet. It also contains oodles of oddities like stones that move themselves, ghost towns, and a salt pan spread over 200 square miles. Plus, the blankness of its landscape allows for full appreciation of each colorful twist and etch. For us, Death Valley was packed with countless surprises, some of them galactic.

the good about Badwater
The great thing about taking pictures in a salt pan is that even Charlie Brown wearing a sheet would look tan.

Due to its remote location, reaching Death Valley requires some driving no matter which direction you are coming from. We decided to make this our first road trip with a new car. Unfortunately, the excitement of taking our fresh wheels was tempered by beeps. Our windshield wiper fluid became low somewhere between St. George and Las Vegas. Our car, in all its technological glory, reminded us of this near deficiency precisely every mile. We stopped in Vegas to mollify the Gods of Beep with an offering of washer fluid, but it took three stores to find this common item. What’s up Vegas? The rest of our drive was exquisitely beepless.

Badwater Basin
The famous polygons of Death Valley are formed by salt crystals expanding in the cracks of dried mud.
overlooked landscapes
The salt in Badwater Basin is mostly sodium chloride. It is spectacular when viewed as a single crystal or a collective.

Our first day in the park, we covered a tourist requirement by visiting Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level. Many of our fellow visitors just popped out to get a picture by the sign and then hurried on to their next photo stop, missing the best of Badwater. With about half a mile of walking, the distinctive polygon-shaped salt patches that Death Valley is known for can be reached. These are definitely worth taking a couple thousand steps. Why so salty? Death Valley’s salt pan was covered by a lake that evaporated about 2,000 years ago leaving behind its minerals. More deposits have been added with each flash flood. Since Badwater Basin is below sea level, those compounds have nowhere to drain. Voila! A couple thousand years with a clogged pipe and you’ve got a salt crust up to five feet thick.

spiny brine
Densely packed spirals of spiny salt fill as far as the eye can see at the Devil’s Golf Course.

After North America’s low point, we visited Satan’s fairway. The Devil’s Golf Course is a part of Badwater Basin that doesn’t flood because it’s a few feet higher than the valley’s deepest point. It’s also rarely touched by precipitation. That absence of water has allowed for the formation of large halite crystals over time. These are sharp and unforgiving; I’ve never encountered terrain so eager to stab. We managed to take a little stroll amongst the jagged, pickled sculptures without any bloody bumps.

Devil's Golf Course
The devil’s in the details.

Just before sunset, we stopped at the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, which is the park’s largest dune. There, you can hike miles along ridges that rise up 150 feet, or you can roll away like R2-D2 did. That’s right, Mesquite Flat was one of the many locations in Death Valley used for filming the Tatooine scenes in Star Wars: A New Hope. Death Valley was also the setting for parts of Return of the Jedi. As nerdy as we are, we somehow didn’t know this before our trip.

rolling dunes
Mesquite Flat is where R2-D2 rolled away from C-3PO.

The following day, we were off to Zabriskie Point and a 2.7-mile trek through the Badlands Loop. On the Badlands Loop, you wander through the maze of buttery colors below Zabriskie Point. These deposits were once the bottom of Lake Manly. Tilted and distorted by seismic activity and scored by the bursts of countless floods, the Badlands feature a labyrinth of carved, barren mounds separated by the thirsty fingers of dry washes.

Natural Bridge
Natural Bridge has the biggest span and worst name of the natural bridges in Death Valley.
dry and dramatic
Natural Bridge Canyon contains a number of dry waterfalls, vertical mementos of the unforgiving force of flash floods.

We also checked out Natural Bridge in Natural Bridge Canyon that afternoon- yes, those names are amazing. Jason and I have seen many natural bridges, this one was different. With a toothed and chunky span 35 feet tall and equally wide, this formation could never be called graceful. Like almost all the 17 bridges in Death Valley, Natural Bridge is composed of conglomerate rock, which is a type of sedimentary stone containing gravel, pebbles, and boulders. Basically, conglomerate rock is nature’s cement. This short hike, only 0.3 miles each way, is sure to please the geologically curious.

Artist's Palette
Dry should never be confused with dull.

Ever in search of nifty sunset locations, we tried to catch one at Artist’s Palette that evening. We saw roughly the last 30 seconds. Fortunately, the sun’s disappearance didn’t mute the heaps of mint, blush, canary, and ultramarine splashed and swirled by volcanic and hydrothermal activity across this mountainside. Magnificent!

Golden Canyon
It’s surprising how many forms and colors barren hillsides can take.

We filled the following day with a trek and a view. First, we hiked the portion of Golden Canyon to the Red Cathedral. You may know Golden Canyon by the name Jason calls it- Jawa Canyon. Most of the Jawa scenes in A New Hope were filmed in this butterscotch-colored gap. Naturally, we reenacted a few.

from the windows of the Red Cathedral
Golden Canyon is the most popular hike in Death Valley. Who are we to argue with the herd?

We successfully caught a sunset that evening at Dante’s View. As it turns out, Dante’s View is also Luke’s view as he is looking down at the Mos Eisley spaceport. This spot, located on the north side of Coffin Peak, is over 5,000 feet above the valley floor. From its vantage point, one can see both the lowest and highest points in the contiguous United States. Yes, in case you are wondering, back in the 1920s, Death Valley’s landowners dove a little heavy-handed into the death theme as a means of encouraging tourism- Dante’s View, Funeral Mountains, Coffin Peak- you get the idea.

valleys and stars
We packed for our trip not realizing we were headed to a galaxy far, far away. And yet…
a golden canyon creature
Jawa or Jason?
Dante's View
Nestled among the ridges of the Black Mountains, Dante’s View is no Hell.

As our final exploit in Death Valley, we got up early to catch a sunrise at Zabriskie Point, a popular daybreak photography spot. We’d read that if you didn’t arrive at least an hour beforehand, you wouldn’t be able to procure a spot. Although we were only 30 minutes early, there was still plenty of space amongst the 26 tripods waiting for rays to reach Manly Beacon. We didn’t mind getting a few less snoozes to get this experience.

Zabriskie Point
Zabriskie Point is an iconic spot to see a sunrise.

Death Valley felt like the Wild West meets Mars. It was beautiful in rare and unexpected ways. The diverse landscape appeared alien, and we found spiders in our toilet. The temperatures hit the mid-80s almost every afternoon; it sure didn’t feel like February. How does anyone handle it when it’s 45 degrees warmer? Jason asked me in earnest before we left the park, “Do you promise you’ll come back to Death Valley with me again?” Jason, I promise.

Tacos, Torpedoes, and Old Towns

San Diego is California’s second-most-populated city and its oldest. You had me at sunshine. Wait, did I skip that part? San Diego has a Mediterranean climate, so its sunshine is as plentiful as its people. Jason and I recently traveled to those unclouded shores again and enjoyed 75 degrees while it was significantly less than 75 degrees back home. Our many past visits to San Diego didn’t make choosing where to spend our time any easier. We ended up occupying a few days collectively at some places that could have eaten up several days each. Plus, we ate a lot, as in an amount that requires a long-winded paragraph to cover.

the boat's brain
The Midway’s computer was installed in 1963 and was 17,000 times slower than modern machines.

The seafood and Mexican cuisine options in San Diego are like a tidal wave hitting a tamale stand the size of a football stadium. How does one choose between them? Oh, the gastrointestinal conflict! The culinary drama! Why not gorge on both? We dined at La Puerta, voted one of the top 10 places to get a taco in the United States. Based off our meal, it deserves that prestige. We also ate at El Agave, an old favorite of ours. The Taco Stand provided yet another tasty serving of tacos; Jason and I are still debating if that tastiness outweighed the wait though. For seafood, we feasted at Top of the Market where the crab cakes and Key lime panna cotta were the best part of the meal. We didn’t skimp on dessert elsewhere either. We ate handmade ice cream at Salt and Straw not once but twice. It could have been 27 times, but we have impressive self-control. Donut Bar, claimed to have the world’s most award-winning donuts, also intrigued us. However, by the time we visited at noon, only the sickly-sweet varieties were left. Therefore, Jason and I concluded we’d rate some of the donut shops in Portland higher. We would be happy to perform another taste test at Donut Bar to ascertain if our initial conclusion was correct. We also consumed pancakes and breakfast tacos at Snooze AM Eatery. Limiting taco intake to just two meals a day seems entirely unnecessary. Why so many sentences devoted to the discussion of consumption? I like food.

flight at night
The Midway carried 100 aircrafts at its peak.
globs of knobs
What did all these knobs do? No idea. How did someone remember what they all did? No idea.

Although devouring excellent eats did take up a surprising amount of time, we sandwiched other activities between meals. We spent a few hours aboard the USS Midway, an aircraft carrier with the capacity to accommodate over 130 aircrafts. Midway was commissioned in 1945 and was the largest ship in the world at the time. To me, the Midway felt both monstrously huge and cramped all at once. I only managed to tackle a fraction of the exhibits, but don’t worry, I still significantly augmented the useless-facts portion of my brain. Did you know SOS stands for save our ship?

California Tower
The California Tower was built in 1915 for the Panama-California Exposition celebrating the completion of the Panama Canal.

The following day, we went on a photography tour of Old Town and Balboa Park. Not only did we learn some fascinating historical tidbits (There were no trees in San Diego when the first Spaniards arrived.), but I got some classic shots of the architecture in Balboa Park’s 1,200 acres. Not familiar with Balboa Park? Here are some useless facts to expand your brain: Balboa Park was one of the first places devoted to public recreation in the United States and is larger than New York City’s Central Park by almost 400 acres. That acreage is filled with 17 museums, a zoo, bowling greens, multiple gardens, a Shakespearean theater, a puppet theater, a gymnasium, an organ pavilion, and restaurants. The graceful archways and clay roof tiles of Balboa’s Spanish Colonial Revival architecture afforded perfect framing and contrast to a lapis sky; the picture possibilities seemed inexhaustible.

Spanish Colonial Revival
Balboa Park’s Spanish Colonial Revival architecture sparked a trend throughout the country.
a steady blur
A tripod and a steady subject can change motion.

One of Balboa Park’s attractions is the renowned San Diego Zoo. We hadn’t revisited the zoo in over a decade. With temperatures in the 70s, spending time outside was a must. This made the zoo an easy choice. The San Diego Zoo is home to over 650 species of animals. It also contains a plethora of paths that overlap frequently, which sometimes makes figuring out where you are at less than easy. We wandered along the Monkey Trail, Scripps Aviary, parts of the Park Way, and the Eagle Trail. We didn’t know where we were headed a large share of the time, but we encountered many animals that we’d never heard of and old favorites along our mysterious route.

Woman of Tehuantepec
“Woman of Tehuantepec” was sculpted by Donal Hord and has been in Balboa Park since 1935.

The San Diego Zoo accommodates 27 types of monkey and various other primates; these were some of our favorites of the day. The bonobo, often called the pygmy chimpanzee, is an endangered species of great ape and the most intriguing creature we encountered at the zoo. It is believed to be humans’ closest relative with a developed brain capable of empathy and recognizing affliction in others. In full disclosure, we did witness one of these intelligent animals sample its own feces. But, if humans didn’t wear pants and eating your own excrement wasn’t socially forbidden, you might try a turd too.

a red-tailed monkey
What has a red tail and a cute little baby? That red-tailed monkey.

On our last day in San Diego, we went back for one more taste of Old Town. Along with watching some colorful Folklorico dancing performed for free at the Fiesta de Reyes, we learned about the difficulties of stagecoach travel at the Wells Fargo Museum and the Seeley Stable Museum. We also visited the Mormon Battalion Historic Site, which provided another perspective on San Diego’s early days.

a bonobo
Bonobos and common chimpanzees are humans’ nearest relatives.
polars to people
Polar bears may exceed 10 feet when standing. Jasons may exceed six feet when standing.

Like Colonial Williamsburg, Old Town San Diego State Historic Park is a living history museum. As in Colonial Williamsburg, employees wear historical garb at Old Town. However, I did see a laptop and a couple other bits of modern technology being used by employees in Old Town, which would be occupational suicide in Colonial Williamsburg. Bygone pretentiousness comes at a cost though; unlike Colonial Williamsburg, most of the museums at Old Town are free. I’m guessing the frugal among you would happily overlook some out-of-place tech to achieve a positive impact on your pocketbook.

Old Town
Old Town is the location of the first Spanish settlement in San Diego.

San Diego filled our travel guts with delicious sustenance. We consumed tacos aplenty, sampled architecture, drank in sunshine, and gobbled trivial data. Yummy! By the way, San Diego may be California’s second-most-populated city, but it felt pleasantly deserted without the Comic-Con crowds.

Desert Points and Joints

Tucson is a prickly delicacy wrapped in a warm tortilla and smothered in sunshine sauce. In December, we visited that arid nirvana with a chunk of my family. Delicious food was eaten, 150-year-old cacti were beheld, exceptional trails were hiked, and careless kids were spiked. Here’s how the piggings and the prickings went.

drought adapters
There are around 2,000 species of cactus.

Tucson is the second-largest city in Arizona. It is encircled by five minor mountain ranges and a national park. Its bragging rights include being the first U.S. city to receive the title “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO and boasting the southernmost ski resort in the United States. We wasted no time sampling its inimitable offerings intimately.

when chollas attack
I’d be making that face too.

Jason went outside with some of the nieces and nephews to explore our first morning in Arizona. Within minutes, a nephew walked backwards into a jumping cholla, a barbed cactus known for attaching painfully onto anything near it. Although its hooks made removal more difficult than expected, Jason disconnected flesh from plant with skilled maneuvering.

short range, long life
The saguaro cactus only grows in the Sonoran Desert but lives up to 200 years.

After all those spikes were disconnected, we created opportunities for more stabbings with a hike in Saguaro National Park on portions of the Douglas Spring Trail, Converse Trail, and Garwood Trail- about 1.5 miles in total. Glorious desert!

Sabino Canyon
The Santa Catalina Mountains were created over 12 million years ago.
symbol of the Southwest
A saguaro can weigh up to 4,800 pounds and reach up to 60 feet.

Following our trek, we ate lunch at the humble looking but highly rated Baja Café. Yum! This restaurant is known for eggs benedicts and huevos rancheros. I got the Wyatt Earp, which is a grilled green chile and cheese tamale pie topped with tomatillo sauce, seared pulled pork, two strips of chipotle bacon, fire roasted green chilies, onions, tomatoes, melted cheddar and Monterey jack cheese, poached eggs, avocado hollandaise, pico de gallo, and cotija. If I didn’t just make you hungry with that run-on sentence, you may have no stomach for bad grammar. I’d highly recommend Baja Café, even if you prefer snickerdoodle pancakes to eggs benedict.

liquid magnetism
A single saguaro can absorb 200 gallons of water during just one rainstorm.

During the afternoon, we shopped at the Old Town Artisans, cute stores in downtown situated on the site of a fort built by the Spanish in 1775. Beyond offering distinctive handmade items, these shops contain remnants of original gold-leafed mouldings, wallpapers, and ceilings constructed from saguaro cactus ribs.

Beep! Beep!
It’s hard to believe roadrunners can dash up to 27 MPH on their tiny legs.
prickly and purposeful
The spines of a cactus don’t just fend off potential nibblers; they also reduce water loss by decreasing airflow around the plant.

The next day, the wind picked up quite a bit. It made the mid-fifties feel more than 50% less hospitable. However, seeing as it was 20 degrees back home, you won’t catch me ungraciously complaining here. Despite the chilly breeze, we hiked about four miles through Sabino Canyon in a convoluted loop that jumped on a number of trails including parts of Esperero, Rattlesnake, and Bluff. These took us through cactus-covered hillsides and above Sabino Creek. Appearing like a vein diffusing golden blood, the land lining Sabino Creek was covered in deciduous trees just losing their fall leaves. This ordinary gilded stipe seemed almost alien surrounded by resilient saguaros.

a superior sunset
Desert sunsets are more vibrant because of a superior spectral pureness due to cleaner and drier air.

We spent the afternoon at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. Since large sections of this museum are located outside, the chilly wind plagued us still while we observed a load of desert critters including black widows, roadrunners, bobcats, and endangered Mexican gray wolves. We learned that there are over two dozen types of rattlesnakes in the Sonoran Desert. That’s a whole lot of rattling my nerves! The museum’s Cactus Garden is notable with over 100 types of these unique plants, including rare and endangered species like the Pima pineapple.

Tucson travelers
Families are chaotic and amazing.

Our time in Tucson passed in a sunny, gusty, prickly, cheesy blast. The plates and landscapes were inspiring and the wind almost immobilizing.