Spiking 150

You history buffs may recall a monumental conclusion that occurred 150 years ago. If not, let me spike your memory. This May marked the 150th anniversary of the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad at unlikely Promontory Summit, Utah. In celebration of this anniversary, 150 parties took place around the state. Jason and I were delighted to be part of one of these and to be able to visit Promontory Summit itself during its three-day celebration.

hooped and boxed
The Heber Valley Railroad utilizes cars built from 1910 to the late 1940s.

The Heber Valley Railroad (Heber Creeper) is the sole historic railway in Utah; it’s the only place in the state you can ride a 100-year-old train. So, it was a perfect track for one of the many sesquicentennial festivities. Before the Heber Creeper rolled down its 15-mile line hauling eight cars filled with 400 people, our vintage dance group enlivened those riders with moves from the 1860s. On the platform, we taught them to chasse and skip along with us.

Big Boy
Big Boy weighs 1.2 million pounds and is over 132 feet long making it the world’s largest locomotive.

During the ride through Provo Canyon, our twirling troupe traversed cars and chatted with attendees. Their passion was contagious. With so many train enthusiasts from all over the world aboard, the Heber Creeper was feeling the love that night. I enjoyed wandering the compartments and conversing with people, but it was a challenge to fit my hoopskirt though the aisles and even harder to sit down. Apparently, train cars aren’t built to accommodate 4.5-foot-wide passengers.

the last spike
During the summer, reenactments of the driving of the last spike happen every Saturday at Golden Spike National Historic Park.

We managed to get tickets for the Sesquicentennial Celebration the following day at Golden Spike National Historic Park. The weekend’s festivities were completely sold out with thousands of attendees. On the way to Promontory Summit, we stopped in Ogden to see Big Boy, the largest and heaviest steam locomotive ever made. Decommissioned in 1959, Big Boy No. 4014 was restored to operating condition in honor of the sesquicentennial by the Union Pacific Railroad. The crowds to view Big Boy were dense, even thicker than the throngs we encountered later that day at Promontory Summit. It was worth the wedging though to examine that beefy chunk of a bygone era.

rolling perdition
We partied like it was 1869 with some family members who also came to Golden Spike.

We made it to Golden Spike in time for the afternoon reenactment, which was packed but entertaining. We heard some true tales about the completing of the railroad, ate from a plethora of food trucks, and visited “Hell on Wheels.” The working replicas of the Jupiter and No. 119 locomotives, although not new, were new to me. I loved how they breathed tangible steam and smoke into the stillness of the past.

No. 119
The original Union Pacific No. 119 was scrapped in 1903, but this operating replica is pretty convincing.

As a history nerd, I was super excited about the sesquicentennial, and it did not disappoint. Being a part of the revelries with our dancing group made it even more extraordinary. It was surprisingly easy to get swept up in the momentum of an occurrence that changed this continent 150 years ago.

A Monumental Adventure

This year’s anniversary festivities fell to me for the planning. I’ve been curious about Monument Valley for years. On this occasion, as it often does, curiosity got the better of me. So, Jason and I were soon off on a monumental adventure.

Balanced Rock
A rock can be balanced by a bow.

We stopped at Arches National Park on our way to Monument Valley. I was hoping to photograph the slew of wildflowers anticipated after Utah’s unusually wet winter and spring, but the blossoms were just starting to pop out. Arches was far from a photographic bust though. I happened to be shooting Balanced Rock at sunset when a double rainbow unexpectedly materialized over it. Shot score!

Run Forrest!
You may recognize this hill from a famous running scene.

The following day, we proceeded into the middle of nowhere because nowhere is exactly where Monument Valley is located. Although remote, the drive to Monument Valley passes some stimulating scenery like Mexican Hat, a massive rock that looks like a sombrero stuck upside down.

Goulding's
Goulding’s Trading Post Museum makes for an interesting interruption.

Before heading into Monument Valley, we stopped at the Goulding’s Trading Post Museum to learn a little about the over 100 movies that have been filmed in Monument Valley. Don’t remember any? Perhaps you recall Forrest Gump, Back to the Future III, National Lampoon’s Vacation, The Lone Ranger, Mission: Impossible II, Wild Wild West, and Starman? Four John Wayne movies placed Monument Valley on the cinematic map and countless others have kept it there.

West Mitten Butte
Most hiking in Monument Valley requires a guide. The Wildcat Trail is an exception.

Monument Valley is a mystifying mix of fantastic buttes and crowds. The nine stops you can make on the 17-mile Valley Drive without a guide are gorgeous but might test your patience. They may be packed with tourists taking 50 pictures of themselves doing the exact same jump over and over again in front of a butte you are waiting to photograph. (Yup, that happened, and no, 50 isn’t an exaggeration.) If you want to avoid the surplus throngs, I’d recommend using your feet.

John Ford's Point
This overlook in Monument Valley is named after John Ford, the Hollywood director that made Monument Valley legendary.

There are only a couple places you can hike without a guide in Monument Valley. One of them is the Wildcat Trail that circles the West Mitten Butte. Despite the masses at the visitor center, we saw exactly seven people and two equestrians on this four-mile trek. Hallelujah for hominid lethargy!

Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei
Buttes erode into pointy beauties.
Three Sisters
Spring flowers bloomed around the Three Sisters.

Our last day in Southeastern Utah began with a visit to the Bluff Fort Historic Site. Bluff is a tiny town of 320 surrounded by a challenging landscape. Its fort was the first Anglo settlement in the Four Corners region. These initial settlers came from Escalante in 1880 via the Hole in the Rock Trail. Their story is pretty remarkable. The recreations and restorations at the fort are maintained with obvious pride and love. It’s a great place not only to gather historical tidbits but also information on points of interest in the area. The staff is knowledgeable and plenty of maps are available. As an added bonus, admission is free.

North Window
The only unguided driving one can do in Monument Valley is on a loop with just nine stops. Each one is magnificent though.

The rest of our day was packed with Native art and ancient structures. We stopped at the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel first. This panel is easy to access and continues for more than 100 yards. It features varied rock art between 800 and 2,500 years old.

Wolfman Panel
The Wolfman Panel is distinct and sophisticated… and a distinct reminder that humans are often disappointing creatures. Bullet holes? What the!

Next, we visited three ruins and some petroglyphs along Butler Wash, which is now part of the Shash Jaa Unit of Bears Ears National Monument. Through Butler Wash many archeological sites can be accessed. We chose to investigate the Wolfman Petroglyph Panel with its nearby edifices, Split Level Ruin, and Monarch Cave Ruins.

Wolfman's den
We encountered pictographs, petroglyphs, metates, and pottery shards at the ruins we visited.

Although we hiked to three ruins, none of them felt like repeats. The ones near the Wolfman Panel contained a number of compartments. Split Level included hand pictographs and petroglyphs. Monarch’s curved structure reminded us of the buildings at Hovenweep National Monument. None of the required climbs were particularly long, ranging from about a mile to just over two, but we were rained on repeatedly at surprising moments during our treks.

Monarch Cave Ruins
Rain dampened our weekend numerous times, especially during our trek to Monarch Cave.

Our trip to Monument Valley encompassed areas beyond that epic basin. We explored many parts of Southeastern Utah previously unseen. You don’t have to journey across the world to experience new things; just around the four corners wonders await.

Escalante for Everyone

When Jason and I first visited Escalante and stayed at Escalante Yurts, I immediately thought it would be a perfect spot for some family adventures and togetherness. Two years later, Jason and I made that bonding outing happen as our birthday present to everyone in my clan.

Escalante Yurts
The yurts at Escalante Yurts have all the perks of camping and none of the drawbacks.

Planning this trip was a bit complicated. We told the group about our idea last November and managed to schedule a weekend this spring when the yurts and almost all my family were available. Although we planned months in advance, only 75% of the crew ended up attending. Still, it was the greatest concentration of us in a remote location in over 20 years. Hallelujah for my preparation inclinations!

creek curiosities
The hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls passes many intriguing elements like beaver dams, a pictograph, and ancient granaries.

We all arrived at the yurts within an hour or two of each other. Then, eighteen of us ate pizza and Spanish anchovies at Escalante Outfitters. Escalante Outfitters is an unconventional but tasty consortium of lodgings, gear, and grub. After dinner, we wasted no time getting pungently smoky around a campfire. Encompassed in its crackling hospitality, we chatted until after midnight.

Lower Calf Creek Falls
Although some family members were already on their way down from Lower Calf Creek Falls as others were heading up, with the help of some freshly-pulled taffy all were convinced to assemble at the falls for a group photo.

The next morning, we headed off on the 5.5-mile trek to Lower Calf Creek Falls, one of Escalante’s most popular paths. Our group spread out quickly between teenagers trying to impress each other with speed and younger children not being entirely convinced they wanted to move. Jason and I stayed with the slower faction and kept the kids distracted through entertaining readings and dramatizations at each of the trail’s 14 interpretive stops. It was an enjoyable ramble with plenty of meaningful conversations, merriment, and views of marvelous wilderness.

an assured escapee
The kids were eager for some cousin time. Many games of Fugitive were played around the yurts, even after dark.

We spent the evening hanging around the yurts and carrying out an epic Easter egg hunt covering a significant portion of the yurt’s 20 acres. Usually, our Easter hunts are impressive only in terms of the number of items hidden. Obviously, this one’s ambitiousness extended to terrain complexity and size.

scanning for stashes
When you have access to 20 acres and plenty of crannies, choosing where to stash goodies becomes difficult in a different way.

On our return journey, we made lots of stops. The first was to see the Freemont granaries along the Escalante River and hike to the 100 Hands Pictograph. This short, and somewhat-adventurous, trek has lots of points of interest that kept the kids attentive. I’ve heard rumors that it was the favorite outing of the weekend for many.

swings and things
The grounds at Escalante Yurts are well-appointed with everything needed for a memorable stay.
Pushy brothers!
This is what happens when you let your brother give you a push.

Next, we snacked and refreshed ourselves at Kiva Koffeehouse amidst gorgeous views and agreeable sunshine. Then, at Anasazi State Park, the kids and once-upon-a-time kids explored replica dwellings and viewed artifacts dating back to 1050. The last stop on our way home was Hell’s Backbone Grill, an appetizing diversion. The Jenchiladas were just as scrumptious as I remembered them.

searching for 100 hands
The trail to the 100 Hands Pictograph is short and packed with rock art.

This weekend excursion was basically a reunion sponsored by the Sabins. I wish my entire family could have come, but it was still awesome to have a significant portion present. We got to witness Ryan’s performing skills, sample Andrew’s chili, watch the kids excavate muddy stumps in search of golden eggs, eat anchovies like the aliens on V, and laugh about childhood mishaps. It reminded me that my brother has a superb sense of humor, my sister an infinite reserve of kindness, and that countless connections bind us to each other. Happy birthday everyone!