Pike and the Port

Jason and I took a couple vacations with my family last spring, but we thought we might as well make it an odd trio for 2018 via a fall trip to the coast of Washington. After all, everyone knows that odd numbers are more aesthetically pleasing than even ones.

The Chihuly Garden is conveniently, and strategically, located right by the Space Needle.
The Chihuly Garden is conveniently, and strategically, located right by the Space Needle.

Jason and I decided to head to Washington a day early to explore Seattle before the arrival of my family. We occupied most of that time by eating. You think I jest? I do not sir. We stayed near Pike Place Market and used that advantageous location to sample food in excess from many of Seattle’s best eateries. Our first evening, we gobbled sliders, kimchi, and wings at Chan, a Korean gastropub. Chan’s sliders are the nibbles of legend, which explains the restaurant’s ranking as #3 of the over 3,000 bistros in Seattle.

We visited the Market Theater Gum Wall not once but thrice.
We visited the Market Theater Gum Wall not once but thrice.
The remains of my chewings are now stuck to Seattle forever.
The remains of my chewings are now stuck to Seattle forever.

The next morning, we ate something called a sammy at Dahlia’s Bakery. Whatever the name, it was one of the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. We wandered around the Market and shopped a bit before chomping again. (A stomach needs a break sometime.) The Crumpet Shop supplied us with both savory and sweet crumpets for our next grub installment. Delish!

We didn't gain any time by taking a ferry out of Seattle, but we did gain this briny urban vista.
We didn’t gain any time by taking a ferry out of Seattle, but we did gain this briny urban vista.

We filled the afternoon with something other than eating, just for variety’s sake. MoPOP gave us a peek at the props of fantasy, horror, and sci-fi culture. Chihuly Garden and Glass offered colorful displays of arty culture. Finally, we did what all tourists have to do in Seattle; we rode to the top of the Space Needle. The Space Needle was remodeled in 2018 to include the only rotating glass floor in the world. From 500 feet up, “The Loupe” affords a daunting perspective of the city. I thought standing on that turning base would set off some height misgivings, but I must be tougher than a talking goat. After our little break from stuffing ourselves, we couldn’t end the evening without stuffing ourselves. Lecosho furnished the ingredients for our last porking of the day.

Ships drifting in and out of the port provided nightly entertainment from our back porch.
Ships drifting in and out of the port provided nightly entertainment from our back porch.

The next day, my sister joined us for more eating undertakings. We gobbled Greek yogurt at Ellenos (the top-rated place in the city), pickles from Britt’s Pickles, pie and breakfast sandwiches from Dahlia’s Bakery, buttery croissants and macaroons from Le Panier, doughnuts from the Daily Dozen, tea from the Perennial Tea Room, cheese from Beecher’s, and pavlova from Café Campagne. Yup, all we did was chew food… and chew gum, which we deposited on the Market Theater Gum Wall. After that consumption overload, we headed to Port Angeles to meet up with my parents.

A saturated forest separates Cape Flattery from the rest of the land.
A saturated forest separates Cape Flattery from the rest of the land.
Even the most tentative of hikers can easily travel the trail to Cape Flattery.
Even the most tentative of hikers can easily travel the trail to Cape Flattery.

The subsequent morning, our whole group went to the Makah Museum and Cape Flattery. The Makah Museum displays some interesting tribal artifacts that were preserved in a mudslide hundreds of years ago. Yup, we went from nerd culture to native culture at warp speed. Cape Flattery is the most northwestern piece of the contiguous United States. Its sculpted stacks and warped hollows serve as a singular reminder of the ocean’s endless assault.

At Cape Flattery, strings of caves and whittled sea stacks attest to the relentless persistence of the ocean.
At Cape Flattery, strings of caves and whittled sea stacks attest to the relentless persistence of the ocean.

Following that eventful day, we spent some time at Port Angeles’ tiny farmers market before heading to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park. Hurricane Ridge is jagged and windy, a remarkable contrast from the soggy sections of the park. We did some mild hiking to viewpoints along the Big Meadow, Cirque Rim, and High Ridge Trails with a detour to Sunrise Point. Grand views sprawled into the skyline in every direction.

From Hurricane Ridge, mythical mounts, like Unicorn Peak, are revealed in a majestic sweep.
From Hurricane Ridge, mythical mounts, like Unicorn Peak, are revealed in a majestic sweep.

That evening, we sat around a fire in the backyard eating homemade soup, discussing politics and Poldark, and watching lights shimmer like celestial orbs across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It was an iconic oceanic experience.

Battery Kinzie's two stories and 15 rooms are all yours for the exploring at Fort Worden, including the spooky parts.
Battery Kinzie’s two stories and 15 rooms are all yours for the exploring at Fort Worden, including the spooky parts.
The Point Wilson Lighthouse is still illuminating Puget Sound after more than a century.
The Point Wilson Lighthouse is still illuminating Puget Sound after more than a century.

Our final day in Washington, we headed to Port Townsend to check out the Point Wilson Lighthouse and the rest of Fort Worden Historical State Park. Although still an active beacon, the lighthouse was not open to the public that day. So, we searched for marine treasures along the beach and hidden tunnels through the park’s many bunkers. Fort Worden contains over a dozen bunkers. These military installations are pretty awesome because, apart from their stripped innards, they have been left intact, and you are free to explore them in their entirety. Secret passageways, slim ladders, narrow stairways, and mysterious ramparts are all yours to inspect. You can go bonkers for bunkers!

If you haven't taken a trip with your family in a while, you really should. Now is the perfect time to reconnect with those crazy people you call kin.
If you haven’t taken a trip with your family in a while, you really should. Now is the perfect time to reconnect with those crazy people you call kin.

What was left of the day, we spent shopping and dining in Port Townsend. For a smallish town, Port Townsend contains some surprising shops. My favorite of these was World’s End, a Victorian pirate and steampunk bazaar. We found some rare booty there.

The home we rented was situated perfectly on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
The home we rented was situated perfectly on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Our time in Washington included memorable outings and memorable people. What better to do with the fine people in your life than explore the world, feed your face, gain cultural insights, and shout frustrations at the TV while you watch Poldark? Memorable indeed.

Rocking a Birthday at Rockport

A nephew, Benson, wanted to celebrate his birthday via camping this year. He invited Jason and I to join him, along with a few members of his immediate family. So, we went on a late fall outing to Rockport Reservoir in celebration of this significant occasion. Chatting, crepe munching, hiking, and wind battling ensued.

Notwithstanding its stone-centered name, I don't believe eating rocks is a typical activity at Rockport.
Notwithstanding its stone-centered name, I don’t believe eating rocks is a typical activity at Rockport.

Although I know my nephew loves me, I also know this invitation was extended in part to take advantage of my planning skills. Finding season-appropriate campsites at superb locations is a forte of mine, one that Benson wanted to utilize. I did not fail him. I reserved us a secluded spot at Rockport Reservoir, a great low-altitude option for the cool weather.

Lounging in a hammock is always an appropriate pastime on your birthday.
Lounging in a hammock is always an appropriate pastime on your birthday.
We wandered around the reservoir and found some interesting litter.
We wandered around the reservoir and found some interesting litter.

We spent our evening hours eating tinfoil dinners and conversing around the campfire. Sometime well after midnight, we finally crawled into our tents, minivans, and hammocks for the night just as the wind was preparing to begin a gusty jig.

We got rained on in Seymour Canyon. I was the only one prepared with an umbrella... or a nice husband that was prepared with an umbrella for me.
We got rained on in Seymour Canyon. I was the only one prepared with an umbrella… or a nice husband that was prepared with an umbrella for me.

The next morning, I made birthday crepes. No nephew of mine is having yogurt for breakfast on his birthday if I can help it. Creating crepes wasn’t the easiest task given our limited supplies and the limitless breeze. They turned out perfectly edible despite the wind’s many efforts to add leaves to the batter.

Seymour Canyon's views weren't showy but its splashes of color were.
Seymour Canyon’s views weren’t showy but its splashes of color were.

After some rock skipping, we broke camp and attempted, unsuccessfully, to find a trail to a row of cliffs above the water. Following that failure, we headed to Oakley for a hike up Seymour Canyon. We only trekked 3.5 miles on this path in total, but sections were drastically steep, so not all members of our group made it the whole way. Still, we had fun and earned the giant hamburgers we consumed at Billy Blanco’s on the way home.

The wet weather and demanding terrain made some members of our group less enthusiastic about our hike.
The wet weather and demanding terrain made some members of our group less enthusiastic about our hike.

Many years from now, Benson will look back to the days when getting older felt like an accomplishment. Somewhere in that nostalgic collage, he will recollect eating birthday crepes around a campfire with some eccentric relatives. I’m proud that the crepes and eccentricity etched in that memory will be mine.

Banff the Beautiful Part II

The day after our 12-hour lake excursion, another 12-hour outing commenced as we tackled the Icefields Parkway. At least this time, we didn’t hit the road at 8:30 AM; it was more like 11:30. I’m pretty sure the early bird gets nothing worth getting up for. The Icefields Parkway travels between Banff and Jasper National Parks. It’s one gorgeous lake, mountain, stream, glacier, and forest after another. We traveled along it until we reached the Athabasca Glacier, an 80-mile journey. How did 160 miles take us 12 hours? Perpetual gawking, climbing, and picture taking suck up time like a bulimic vampire sucks up body fluids.

Crowfoot Glacier claws the rocky cliffs of Crowfoot Mountain.
Crowfoot Glacier claws the rocky cliffs of Crowfoot Mountain.

We stopped to see Herbert Lake, Hector Lake, Bow Lake, and Peyto Lake. Surprisingly, all those stops did not lead to lake overload. At Bow Summit, we hiked about four miles to investigate the Bow Summit Lookout. This trail rose above the timberline into grounds already covered by substantial amounts of snow. The last 200 meters of the path were particularly vertical and icy. We were cursing our lack of crampons. Despite the trickiness of the terrain, this trek was our favorite part of the day. Maybe because it left the masses behind in favor of the whistles of hoary marmots. True to Banff’s volatile nature, during this hike the weather alternated between sunny and snowing at a dizzying pace.

Bow Lake is Banff's third-largest body of water.
Bow Lake is Banff’s third-largest body of water.
Peyto Lake is a jade hue one rarely sees in nature. The crowds it gathers one also rarely sees in nature.
Peyto Lake is a jade hue one rarely sees in nature. The crowds it gathers one also rarely sees in nature.

Jason and I made it to the Athabasca Glacier just before darkness thwarted any further explorations. We walked across the lunar-like landscape left by that retreating giant. Although we didn’t get to touch the glacier, an undertaking too dangerous without a guide, we felt and heard it exhale cold rumbling breaths. In true Sabin fashion, we kept wandering around Athabasca until it was so black we couldn’t see. We wouldn’t want to waste a second- unless, of course, that second meant getting up earlier. We didn’t make it back to Banff until 11:30 PM.

From the Bow Summit Lookout, the Mistaya Valley is a peaceful bowl freckled with lakes.
From the Bow Summit Lookout, the Mistaya Valley is a peaceful bowl freckled with lakes.
Sunwapta Pass marks the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks.
Sunwapta Pass marks the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks.

The Icefields Parkway is extraordinary. Strange peaks line it on both sides like warped sentinels in some unhurried procession, each one a perplexing singularity. To me, one looked as if a colossal drop of water was rippling out its sides. Others seemed like parts of a Hollywood set, real from the front but thin and unsubstantial from the back. Along the Parkway, rocks ascend in layers so high you can’t even see where they end. Glaciers recline on and cling to these anomalous towers, over one hundred frock their cliffs and crevices.

Marble Canyon's narrow gap reaches depths of 200 feet.
Marble Canyon’s narrow gap reaches depths of 200 feet.

The last day of our trip, we decided to take it easier, as in not traveling and hiking for 12 hours of the day. We went to Kootenay National Park, about a 40-minute drive. There, we walked through Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots. Marble Canyon, a picturesque fissure carved by two receding glaciers, is a perfect spot for shooting waterfalls. The Paint Pots are circular pools dyed red, orange, and yellow by oxide-bearing springs. The ochre they contain was once used by the people of the First Nation for ceremonial painting. Both of these paths were rambles more than hikes. Even with ceaseless picture taking, we got back to Banff in time to eat Canadian halibut and salmon at The Maple Leaf. Yum!

Tokumm Creek dives into Marble Canyon with enthusiastic force.
Tokumm Creek dives into Marble Canyon with enthusiastic force.
In Kootenay, iron deposits have transformed three mineral springs into pools of color.
In Kootenay, iron deposits have transformed three mineral springs into pools of color.

That brings me to where all meaningful conversations eventually go- food. If you travel to Banff, plan on sampling cuisine at its many stylish restaurants. Also, be prepared to encounter Australian, British, and Irish accents practically more than Canadian ones. Tourists aren’t the only foreigners that flock to the Canadian Rockies.

If you're a fancy hotel, it doesn't hurt to have a fancy peak posing right behind you.
If you’re a fancy hotel, it doesn’t hurt to have a fancy peak posing right behind you.
The Bow River and Mt. Rundle are as much a part of the town of Banff as the ice cream shops.
The Bow River and Mt. Rundle are as much a part of the town of Banff as the ice cream shops.

Banff was surreally stunning and shockingly cold. The sightseers were as ample as the curious crestlines but avoidable for those willing to do some footwork. Next time we visit Banff, I’ll be bringing six coats just in case.