Escalante for Everyone

When Jason and I first visited Escalante and stayed at Escalante Yurts, I immediately thought it would be a perfect spot for some family adventures and togetherness. Two years later, Jason and I made that bonding outing happen as our birthday present to everyone in my clan.

Escalante Yurts
The yurts at Escalante Yurts have all the perks of camping and none of the drawbacks.

Planning this trip was a bit complicated. We told the group about our idea last November and managed to schedule a weekend this spring when the yurts and almost all my family were available. Although we planned months in advance, only 75% of the crew ended up attending. Still, it was the greatest concentration of us in a remote location in over 20 years. Hallelujah for my preparation inclinations!

creek curiosities
The hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls passes many intriguing elements like beaver dams, a pictograph, and ancient granaries.

We all arrived at the yurts within an hour or two of each other. Then, eighteen of us ate pizza and Spanish anchovies at Escalante Outfitters. Escalante Outfitters is an unconventional but tasty consortium of lodgings, gear, and grub. After dinner, we wasted no time getting pungently smoky around a campfire. Encompassed in its crackling hospitality, we chatted until after midnight.

Lower Calf Creek Falls
Although some family members were already on their way down from Lower Calf Creek Falls as others were heading up, with the help of some freshly-pulled taffy all were convinced to assemble at the falls for a group photo.

The next morning, we headed off on the 5.5-mile trek to Lower Calf Creek Falls, one of Escalante’s most popular paths. Our group spread out quickly between teenagers trying to impress each other with speed and younger children not being entirely convinced they wanted to move. Jason and I stayed with the slower faction and kept the kids distracted through entertaining readings and dramatizations at each of the trail’s 14 interpretive stops. It was an enjoyable ramble with plenty of meaningful conversations, merriment, and views of marvelous wilderness.

an assured escapee
The kids were eager for some cousin time. Many games of Fugitive were played around the yurts, even after dark.

We spent the evening hanging around the yurts and carrying out an epic Easter egg hunt covering a significant portion of the yurt’s 20 acres. Usually, our Easter hunts are impressive only in terms of the number of items hidden. Obviously, this one’s ambitiousness extended to terrain complexity and size.

scanning for stashes
When you have access to 20 acres and plenty of crannies, choosing where to stash goodies becomes difficult in a different way.

On our return journey, we made lots of stops. The first was to see the Freemont granaries along the Escalante River and hike to the 100 Hands Pictograph. This short, and somewhat-adventurous, trek has lots of points of interest that kept the kids attentive. I’ve heard rumors that it was the favorite outing of the weekend for many.

swings and things
The grounds at Escalante Yurts are well-appointed with everything needed for a memorable stay.
Pushy brothers!
This is what happens when you let your brother give you a push.

Next, we snacked and refreshed ourselves at Kiva Koffeehouse amidst gorgeous views and agreeable sunshine. Then, at Anasazi State Park, the kids and once-upon-a-time kids explored replica dwellings and viewed artifacts dating back to 1050. The last stop on our way home was Hell’s Backbone Grill, an appetizing diversion. The Jenchiladas were just as scrumptious as I remembered them.

searching for 100 hands
The trail to the 100 Hands Pictograph is short and packed with rock art.

This weekend excursion was basically a reunion sponsored by the Sabins. I wish my entire family could have come, but it was still awesome to have a significant portion present. We got to witness Ryan’s performing skills, sample Andrew’s chili, watch the kids excavate muddy stumps in search of golden eggs, eat anchovies like the aliens on V, and laugh about childhood mishaps. It reminded me that my brother has a superb sense of humor, my sister an infinite reserve of kindness, and that countless connections bind us to each other. Happy birthday everyone!

Moab in Miniature

We visited Moab again this spring like we do every year. This time, instead of undertaking the most protracted hikes and activities possible, we made this a trip of the minute. Little hikes, short stops, and quick diversions added up to a busy but awesome weekend.

Moab is usually pleasant in March, but “pleasant” may have been a stretch this time. The first night, temperatures dropped below freezing. We encountered ice on our initial hike the following morning, which happened to be through Moonflower Canyon. Moonflower Canyon’s one-mile-roundtrip path doesn’t pass anything particularly interesting; I’m not sure I would recommend it unless you want an easy trek for kids. The rock art at the mouth of the canyon is cool though. It can be viewed by walking just south of the parking lot.

birthing and other mysteries
The Birthing Scene Rock seemed to function as a message board for the ancients.

The Birthing Scene, just a few minutes from Moonflower, was our next stop. This is a large boulder that has petroglyphs on all four sides, some of them quite singular. No hiking is required to reach this distinctive rock, making it a worthy stop for even halfhearted sightseers.

a dicey channel
Getting up this ravine, part of the hike to Funnel Arch, isn’t easy for the short and unskilled.
Funnel Arch
Funnel Arch’s substantial curves don’t see many visitors.

Our last outing along Kane Creek Road that morning was a hike to Funnel Arch. While this trail is only one mile in total, it requires a class five climb up a small cliff without a rope. Isn’t the necessity of a rope what makes a class five climb a class five climb? Luckily, Jason is a monkey when it comes to scrambling, and he was able to help me, and my stubby limbs, navigate this precipice. I wouldn’t recommend this trail to those with small children or a strong sense of self-preservation. Admittedly, Funnel Arch is magnificent and probably worth the bother.

Eye of the Whale
We’ve visited Eye of the Whale Arch before, but the afternoon light was more flattering this time.
an attractive anomaly
This pool isn’t usually present next to Sand Flats Road.

These short activities gave us the flexibility to get to our sunset photography tour with Tom Till on time, which was a Valentine’s Day present from Jason. Tom Till has been photographing Moab for about four decades. Although Jason and I are more familiar with Moab than its typical visitors, Tom showed us some spots we had never been. We got shots of Eye of the Whale Arch in pleasing afternoon light, took in the view from a secluded section of the Pinyon Interpretive Loop, and stopped for some reflection pictures in a couple fleeting ponds along Sand Flats Road. Normally, spare water is not part of Moab’s landscape, but it had gotten some serious rain in the preceding weeks. Capturing this atypical moisture was fun. Since I take portraits much more frequently than landscapes, I found Tom’s tour informative and interesting. My biggest lesson learned was noticing lighting changes; they are dependent not just on time of day but also on time of year.

season salt
La Sal means “The Salt.” Someone is going to get serious hypertension from that serving.

The next day, we went down to the newly designated Shash Jaa Unit of Bears Ears National Monument. I remain confused about whether this area is still slated to be called Bears Ears. Whatever its official name, I’d call it splendid.

You aren’t supposed to get up during vacations at 6:30, but we bucked habit to make it to House on Fire Ruins while light reflecting off canyon walls consumed it in daily flames. We trekked through Mule Canyon in time to photograph this midmorning phenomenon. Mule’s walls seemed to not only reflect the sun but a patient wisdom from watching civilizations spring up and disappear again over the eons. The stream flowing through it, probably much deeper and wider than normal, harmonized its tranquil chant to the hushed dignity of the vibrant hills.

House on Fire Ruins
For structures that burn every day, House on Fire Ruins are in pretty great shape.

After burning photos, we checked out Mule Canyon Ruins. These remnants are easy to get to and make a nice brief stop. The partially-excavated structures include a kiva, towers, and connecting tunnels.

Next, we hiked to Cave Tower Ruins. These ruins consist of seven structures surrounding a spring at the mouth of a canyon, most of which have crumbled to rubble over the last 700 years. Even though time’s tenacity has removed some of the interest of this site, its peace and presence justify a visit.

Remember, I said this was a trip of many short stops? Well, we kept stopping. Butler Wash Ruins was the next in our long string of distractions. This brief ramble leads to an overlook above a rock alcove filled with structures from the 1200s. These buildings are reminiscent of Mesa Verde, probably because the inhabitants of Mesa Verde heavily influenced the residents of Butler.

Faux Falls
Faux Falls does not look artificially constructed.

Somehow, after all those breaks, we made it back to Moab just in time for a photography experiment at Faux Fall. Although made in the 1980s by tinkering humans not God, this “fake” cascade looks anything but fake, and the cottonwoods and desert shrubs surrounding it don’t seem to mind either way. We wanted to make it to Faux Fall for sunset photos, and we did. As assumed, I took a surplus number of pictures.

Porcupine's preposterous powder
No, this isn’t normal for Moab in March.
Castle Valley
Castle Valley gets its name from its intense towers of Wingate sandstone.

Our last day in Moab, we hiked a portion of the Porcupine Rim Trail to a few viewpoints overlooking Castle Valley. We found this trail in an unusual state due to the odd combination of precipitation and chilliness that Moab had been experiencing. Snow covered large sections of the first portion. Slick mud bogged and streams of water flowed over the rest of the path making us glad we weren’t dragging our bikes that day. We didn’t see many jeepers, bikers, or dirt bikers, probably for the afore mentioned reasons. Muck made the going slow, but viewpoints made it meaningful. The whitewashed La Sals provided a stark contrast to the scarlets of sandstone and the jades of juniper and pinyon. The consensus? Both Jason and I were glad we trekked this trail, but we would pick other hikes to repeat before this one.

Porcupine Rim's prospects
The panoramas of Castle Valley are the best thing about Porcupine Rim.
Porcupine's plaster
We accumulated layers of brightly-colored mud on our shoes on Porcupine Rim. It was slippery, so I’m surprised we didn’t accumulate it on our butts.

We may not have embarked on any grandiose explorations during this visit to Moab, but we took in a lot of beautiful, and often-overlooked, components of an exceptional section of the planet.

Into Africa Part V: Amsterdam

Our time at Ulusaba went quickly. Our last game drive took us right up to when we needed to catch the first of our flights home. We just barely had a chance to finish packing before heading to the airstrip. We did not have time to take showers. Getting wet on our drive that morning didn’t count because it made us more stinky, which is opposite what an ideal shower should do. After about 10 hours in the Johannesburg airport and an 11.5-hour redeye flight back to Amsterdam, we reeked in multiple ways. If our morning breath didn’t get you, our safari funk would. It’s pretty sad when you think, Geeze, something smells foul in here, and then you realize that foul something is you.

Oude Kerk
The Oude Kerk was built in 1213. This historic sanctuary sits in striking contrast amidst the Red Light District’s gaudiness.

We were really worn out and ready to be home, lengthy showers didn’t change that, but we couldn’t waste a beautiful day in Amsterdam. Even Jason’s earth-shattering sneezes from the cold he picked up in Africa didn’t keep us from visiting the Oude Kerk and the National Maritime Museum.

Pull poo gently!
This misericord features a woman gathering excrement from a man and is meant to illustrate the Dutch proverb, “Pull gently at a weak rope.”

The Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building, is an unusual church. Not only is it oddly placed in the middle of the city’s prostitution district, but it’s uncanny down to its bowels. When we visited, its wooden vaults were filled with a melodious cacophony. Ravens, melancholic rhythms, bomber strikes, kitchen clinks, and forlorn voices combined and lapped us in wave after wave of eerie composition. This din was provided by the Instrument of Troubled Dreams, a bizarre art instillation featuring a mellotron that guests could play. We lightheartedly created our own unsettling musical fantasies with this apparatus. That wasn’t the end of the unexpected eccentricity we encountered at this historical church though.

Basilica of Saint Nicholas
The Basilica of Saint Nicholas is much newer than the Oude Kerk. It only dates back to 1887.

The carvings under the folded seats in the Oude Kerk, known as misericords, feature representations of Dutch proverbs. One would expect bland depictions in an 800-year-old church, but some medieval craftsmen must have had a rather crude sense of humor. Instead of revered characters and noble deeds, think excrement. I jest not.

VOC Amsterdam
The original VOC Amsterdam shipwrecked on its maiden voyage in 1749. This replica hasn’t shipped enough to wreck.
directing Amsterdam
On the VOC Amsterdam, you can pull things, push things, and steer things.

After visiting the Oude Kerk, we walked to the National Maritime Museum. We only had about an hour and a half to explore it before closing. We spent the majority of that time discovering the replica of the VOC Amsterdam and examining the Royal Barge.

Royal Barge
The Royal Barge was built in the 1800s for a Dutch king. Royal barges were quite trendy at the time.

Perhaps Amsterdam was a fitting finish to our African journey. Its crest does feature two golden lions, amongst other things, and this trip was the shiniest gold lion we’ve ever received.

National Maritime Museum
The National Maritime Museum is located in a building that was constructed in the 1600s and was once used by the Admiralty of Amsterdam.

For days after our return, I dreamed of Africa every night as my brain tried in vain to process the marvels we had witnessed. My memories of that wondrously untamed place remain vibrant yet otherworldly. Every once in a while, I have to remind myself that they are real.