Mines and Missiles for the Malfunctioning

Moab has long been one of our favorite places to hike and bike. What if hiking and biking weren’t an option? Would it still be a favorite? Read below, and you will know.

Before I can tell our story of visiting Moab last November, I need to go further back in time to when I found out my talus bone was fractured on my right ankle, and I had an associated bone lesion. By the way, this fracture happened six months before I became aware of it. (Why yes, I do have an exceptionally high pain tolerance. Why do you ask?). I had been wearing a walking boot for six weeks prior to our Moab excursion due to that discovery. My doctor originally told me I’d likely be able to ditch the boot after a month, but I was still in pain at that point, so the boot remained.

When we first learned that I’d still be dealing with ankle limitations in Moab, we almost canceled our trip. Wouldn’t it be sad to be there and not participate in our usual activities? Eventually, we concluded being in Moab is never sad though we’d have to be creative about ways to occupy ourselves. Luckily, our trip happened to fall right when my doctor said I could try taking the boot off again for a couple days and ascertain pain levels, though I was not supposed to do anything but normal walking during that interval. We decided a short, easy hike would be close enough to “normal walking” to be acceptable, and that’s how we ended up on the Pinyon Interpretive Loop.

Pinyon Interpretive Loop
The Pinyon Interpretive Loop only gains 68 feet making it a perfect trail for the recently bootless to test their calf prowess.

The Pinyon Interpretive Loop, just one mile, tells of the desert’s creative and symbiotic survivors including the pinyon jay, the pinyon mouse, biological soil crust (cryptobiotic soil)… and me. Okay, maybe there wasn’t a sign about me, but that day I felt like there should be. We took this trail unhurriedly for my ankle as it was my first nonessential walking in over six weeks and my first time without a boot for that long as well. It was an absolute delight! Forty-two degrees felt warmer than expected between the radiating rock, sunny skies, and lack of wind. Frankly, I would have found a blizzard acceptable.

Later that day, we investigated some history and rocks by visiting the Yellow Cat Mining District just north of Arches and searching for agate and jasper nearby. Online, we’d read accounts of the road to Yellow Cat being rough. It is not. I’m sure if you jumped on one of the route’s many offshoots you would be in for a rougher ride. However, the main path is appropriate for almost any vehicle.

Yellow Cat
In 2002, 171 openings in the Yellow Cat Mining District were closed as part of the Abandoned Mine Reclamation Program while the historical appearance of these portals was largely retained.

The extraction of radioactive ores (uranium and vanadium) at the Yellow Cat Mining District began in the early 1900s and ceased in the mid-1960s. The area was placed in the Grand County Register of Historic Places in 1998 due to its significance. While we didn’t have enough daylight to fully explore all the mines’ leftover structures, machineries, and crevices, we checked out a two-story building, the hillsides’ many adit openings, and the remnants of some ancient vehicles. We noticed many vent pipes dotting the landscape, a testament to just how far and plentiful the network of tunnels extended in the region.

historic holes
Of the district’s many mine sites, 27 of those at Yellow Cat were eligible for nomination on the National Register of Historic Places.

When daylight began to dim, we commenced rockhounding operations without further delay. As we are not serious enough rockhounds to be particularly picky about specimens, we found some agate and jasper we were thrilled over with about half an hour of searching.

The next day, the high was just 41 degrees, yet we were undeterred. We did a mild, self-guided walking tour around the historic center of town as a compromise for my ankle, which was about 0.75 miles. On that we made thirteen stops to view structures like Star Hall, which was built in 1906 and is on the National Register of Historic Places, the Neals Olson Home, and the Old Courthouse and Jail Building. Most of these were constructed between the mid-1880s and the first decade of the 1900s, with a few newer outliers. The stroll was a fantastic way to slow down and appreciate noteworthy structures we may not have fully noticed before.

Hurrah Pass
Hurrah Pass separates Kane Creek Canyon from the Colorado River Canyon at an elevation of 4,780 feet.

Since my feet couldn’t take me far, later that day we relied on a vehicle. We did the T-Rex 4×4 U-Drive Experience to Hurrah Pass tour. With an elevation of 4,780 feet, Hurrah Pass divides the Colorado River from Kane Springs Canyon. As the name of this tour suggests, we got to drive. Well, Jason got to drive as I didn’t want to with a weak peddle foot.

To get to Hurrah Pass, you take Kane Springs Road until it becomes Hurrah Pass Road. Then, you head up through the Moenkopi Formation, followed by Navajo Sandstone, and finally the Wingate Formation to the pass’ apex. The whole trip from Moab is around 30 miles, but the last section starting at Hurrah Pass Road is the only tricky bit. That concluding part is not terribly technical. However, it rides along cliffs with the base of Kane Springs Canyon hundreds of feet below, so a problem with heights is the main problem. I just had to advert my eyes. We had done some of this route before, but we were in new territory beyond Hunter Canyon.

From Hurrah Pass, potash evaporation ponds, Canyonlands National Park, Dead Horse Point State Park, and Kane Creek Canyon all surround you. It isn’t as scenic as some places around Moab but still impressive.

Athena control center
The central blockhouse bunker at the Athena Launch Complex was constructed of concrete and buried in a hillside.
conduit boxes
These may look like some sort of crazy conveyor belt system, but they were above-ground conduit boxes that connected each launch pad to the control center.

On our way home the next day, we made two stops of discovery. The first was the Athena Launch Complex that was part of the Utah Launch Complex near Green River (also called the Green River Test Site). This Cold War-era compound became active in 1962 as part of the Air Force’s program to test its Advanced Ballistic Re-entry System (ABRES). It was used by the Air Force until 1973. During that time, 141 Athena missiles were fired. The Army also used the site starting in 1971 to test their nuclear-capable Pershing missile. Their operations halted in 1975 after the launch of 61 missiles. After employing hundreds of Green River residents for nearly two decades, the complex was decommissioned in 1979. We learned this information following our visit. Hence, we knew little about what the site was used for or what we would find as we explored it. Would you like to know what you can find? Then, read on.

unprofitable scraps
Anything of value, like copper wiring, was plundered from the Green River Test Site decades ago.
junction dome
The site contains tunnels that go straight into the ground. These are housed in metal and accessed with ladders. They once served as junction domes.

You can freely wander this site’s three launch pads and other assorted structures. The high fences and bright lights that once deterred the unwanted are now warped and broken. We spent hours examining the equipment and buildings trying to figure out what we were looking at. It definitely satiated our curiosity craving!

blockhouse bunker
The inside of the central blockhouse bunker, while a mess, still holds tidbits of interest.

The repetition of the site’s three launch pads allowed us to gradually piece together purpose and design. Portions missing on one endured on others. The TCEE tracks were gone on Pad 3, the first one we encountered. We thought we might be looking at a helicopter pad, but the grooves that seemed like they once held some sort of rail line confused me. Pad 2, our second pad, still had its rails. So, I realized I was right about there once being tracks. Pad 1, the most intact pad, was the last one we visited. After we had puzzled over and imagined how things worked on the other two, it was gratifying to see a much more complete TCEE (Temperature Controlled Environmental Enclosures) system.

Pad 3
Pad 3 launched 49 missiles. More of its infrastructure is missing than the others.
Pad 2
Pad 2 had 41 launches. Sections of its gantry still remain.

Other mysteries didn’t entirely get solved until following our outing. The first pad we inspected had a building nearby with only one wall standing. We thought the other three might have just fallen down until we came across another of the same type of structure at the next pad. But why buildings with only one wall? They appeared to have HVAC components in them. We were puzzled. It was only after some online research that we ascertained ultra-high quality (UHQ) blast shields were used to protect cooling ducts at each launch pad. That’s why those edifices only had walls on one side; they were blast shields. Duh!

blast shield
Each launch pad had its own blast shield. The purpose of these one-walled oddities mystified us at first.
pad vault
Each pad included a concrete ring. These vaults served as part of the gantry platform and allowed for venting.

The gantry equipment used as scaffolding around the missiles, some of which was lying around Pad 2, also perplexed us. We had no idea what it was and thought it might have slid on the tracks running along the concrete, but it seemed too long to do so. This was another enigma internet information elucidated. Historical puzzles are a blast!

Pad 1
Missiles were loaded onto the launch pads from buildings on rails called Temperature Controlled Environment Enclosures or TCEE. These were rolled away before launch.

After that enthralling afternoon, we visited the Prehistoric Museum in Price. We’d passed this museum countless times going to Moab. It had always intrigued us, but we had never taken the time to stop. We arrived there one hour and 20 minutes before closing. While we were told the average person spends 45 minutes to an hour at the museum, I am not the average museum guest. I didn’t even make it through one of its two wings, but we did hurry through most of the Horns and Tusks section, the museum’s current temporary exhibit, shortly before closing. It covered the outlandish and whacky evolution of frills, tusks, antlers, horns, and other headgear. Cool!

TCEE grime
Nearly 50 years of desert exposure has given every surface of the only remaining TCEE a thick and crusty layer of muck.

I loved that this museum focuses on Utah from the beginnings of the Earth and includes many rock and fossil specimens specifically from the state. Jason and I will certainly be heading back to check out what we missed.

The verdict on Moab sans hiking and biking? A broken foot can halt certain activities, but it can’t halt adventure. Our Moab trip was atypical in pastimes but typical in that we had an amazing stay.

From Scandinavia to the Nethers Part IV: Amsterdam

Day 7… Continued

We made it to Amsterdam in time to enjoy a lovely, but nippy, outdoor dinner at Eatmosfera, one of our favorite restaurants from previous trips. The house-made pasta, sourdough pizza, and tiramisu were worth the cold feet.

While the meal was delectable, it was not still. The streets that night were overflowing with people, particularly at the Rembrandtplein, a major square of Amsterdam’s downtown. Jason and I had never seen the city so crowded. We later discovered the mobs were due to a football match between Belgium and the Netherlands that was taking place in Amsterdam the following day.

bikes in the city
Amsterdam is a biking city with more than 881,000 bikes for only 780,000 residents. In comparison, there are only about 200,000 cars.

Day 8

The next morning, we went to the Anne Frank Huis. Although Jason and I had both been before, it was just as somber and poignant on repeat. This time we listened to a substantial part of her diary in the weeks prior to our vacation so we would get more out of this visit. While the ending never changes, I still lose it on the exhibit about Otto Frank putting an ad in the paper seeking information regarding whether his daughters were still alive.

We took our time wandering back from the Anne Frank Huis, as in several hours, while it rained on us periodically. We stopped for friets (fries) at Heertje Friet and stroopwafles at Melly’s Stroopwafels, which we couldn’t successfully eat after all the friets. Chocolate shops and bakeries distracted us as well. It was a scrumptious ramble!

friets vs. strolls
Despite all the pastries and cheese, I didn’t gain any weight on our trip. Walking 23 miles during those 10 days probably helped.

Later that afternoon, we went on a canal cruise with Friendship Amsterdam, another activity Jason and I’ve done on multiple occasions. It’s different each time depending on the route taken and the guides’ narration skills.

effervescent vessels
Boat bubbles? Why not.

Lumbini Indian and Nepalese Restaurant finished our day with delicious momos, masalas, and lassis. Oddly, our best meals in Amsterdam were geographically removed from Dutch cuisine.

Day 9

Our final day in Amsterdam, we visited the Van Gogh Museum, another duplication for Jason and me but a fine one. The Van Gogh Museum houses 200 paintings, a third of all the painter’s works. It took us about three hours to soak up the offered art and information, information that revealed stereotypes about Van Gogh’s approach are all wrong. In contrast to the emotions his creations stir, he was methodical and organized, not some free-spirited, impulsive, hippy painter like he is usually portrayed.

once equipped
Our group was usually not prepared for rain, except on this occasion.

The rest of our day was filled with perusing (and buying) antique tiles at Kramer, Kunst & Antiek and pursuing dinner at Portugalia Tasca. I ordered a whole sea bass per the recommendation of our waiter. As this was an entire fish, head and all, I was a little skeptical, but it was delicious. Others also took their taste buds out of comfort zones. My mom tried octopus for the first time via an octopus salad. Adventure, your name is our name too!

Early the next morning, our journey home began. Schiphol Airport traffic was designated “normal” instead of peak. I guess normal means no 2.5-hour security line because we didn’t have to deal with any of that this time.

Amsterdam’s waterways
There are 165 canals in Amsterdam and 1,700 bridges. Apparently, that’s 1,300 more than Venice.

That was our trip. In closing, I’d like to mention just a bit about the stressors and joys of this outing, namely COVID and family. It’s easy to get caught up in the problems of a vacation while you are experiencing them. It’s easy to forget that over time hard moments recede into memory and what remains is the wealth of common experiences, moments of laughter, and shared discoveries. But, while I do still remember these, here’s what caused a few difficulties.

COVID was still a concern when we took this trip. Hence, Jason and I wanted to be as prepared as possible for the possibility. We took four boxes of COVID tests, an oxygen monitor, and a thermometer just in case. The updated booster for Omicron became available about a week and a half before we left. Jason and I got it just a day after it hit pharmacies and doctors’ offices. That meant our vaccines were fully active about five days after we departed, which made us feel a bit more confident.

spoked filler
Every year between 12,000 and 15,000 bikes are fished out of Amsterdam’s canals.

As our preference was to not ruin our travels by contracting the #1 undesirable, we wore masks in airports and planes on our way out, but, admittedly, we didn’t don them many other places as COVID counts were low at the time. At some point, you just have to set worry aside, or your vacation won’t be much of a vacation. Maybe we should have continued to slip on our masks though as my dad came down with COVID three to four days after our return. Thankfully, he recovered just fine. If he’d gotten sick in Europe, his illness would have been a much bigger deal though. Phew!

What about the bug that’s always with you, but you can’t spread? You can love your family dearly but still have some tension with them over exactly how to approach a vacation. Jason and I are fortunate in that we have very similar vacation styles, so our travels pass with little drama. With the larger group on this trip, incorporating different styles without conflicts or frustrations arising sometimes proved tricky. Plus, family is a funny thing. One day you might be weary of them and feel like an outcast, and the next you might be laughing at dinner over inside jokes and stories of bygone years. While there were a few rough moments on this excursion, by the end, everyone recollected the events with fondness. (And these last few paragraphs, at some point, will be largely erased from remembrance.)

From Scandinavia to the Nethers Part III: Skagen

Jutland, the only non-island portion of Denmark, connects the country to mainland Europe. Skagen sits on its tip, Denmark’s furthest point north. Skagen is both beautiful and abrasive with pristine white sand beaches and a roaming desert called the Råbjerg Mile, the largest moving sand dune in Europe. The Råbjerg Mile was formed during the 1500s and has been inching along for centuries at a pace of 50 feet per year engulfing landmarks and infrastructure in its path. In another 100 years, it will cover the road to Skagen. This unusual place was our last Danish sojourn.

Day 6

We set out in the morning in search of Det Grå Fyr, Skagen’s famous grey lighthouse. Instead, we ended up on North Beach at one of the town’s many other lighthouses, Skagen Fyr Vest (West Lighthouse). Why the plethora of lighthouses? The Skaw Spit, a sandy underwater feature that changes with currents and weather, makes the waters around Skagen particularly dangerous and in need of a legion of lighthouses apparently. Our confusion worked out alright for us though as we found piles of captivating rocks on that beach and hit Denmark’s most northern point.

The Gray Lighthouse
The Gray Lighthouse has been warning ships away from Skagen’s turbulent shores since 1858 and is still active.

Eventually, we did make it to Det Grå Fyr. Det Grå Fyr was built in 1858 and is Denmark’s second-tallest lighthouse at 131 feet. Visitors can take 208 steps to the top where they are greeted by impressive shoreline views and gusts.

Nazi holdouts
It was odd to find the vestiges of Nazi aggression on a quiet beach.

Next, we walked out to Grenen, a journey that requires about three miles of stepping round trip on a breezy beach. What is Grenen? Grenen is a sand bar north of Skagen where the North and Baltic Seas meet in a never-ending dramatic display of ramming waves and turbulent sprays. It was trippy to watch violent breakers coming from competing directions there.

coastal heathland
Grasses and shrubs pepper the expanses of sand on Skagen’s beaches.

The natural setting at Grenen, dominated by coastal grasses and silvery sands, is at odds with the austere relics from Nazi occupation during WWII dotting the shores, concrete bunkers. Some of these structures are now partially submerged as the sand supporting them has been leisurely crawling back to the sea over decades.

Grenen
At Grenen, waves collide from opposite directions.
sinking scraps
Although the Germans built their bunkers to withstand, many have slowly been succumbing to sea and sand.

Our last outing of the day was to the Den Tilsandede Kirke (Sand-Buried Church), originally called Saint Laurence after the patron saint of sailors. The 148-foot-long and 72-foot-high structure was built between 1355 and 1387 and abandoned in 1795. Why was it abandoned? The name should give a clue. The Råbjerg Mile, that traveling mass of sand, started to submerge the building around 1600. Every week the door would have to be dug out just so worshipers could enter. Eventually, this became an unmanageable task, and Skagen’s oldest building and once largest church was forsaken and left to its gritty demise. While the structure was later largely demolished, the foundation, floor, alter, baptismal font, nine feet of the walls, and cemetery wall remain underearth along with all the cemetery’s headstones. I guess even God is beholden to nature. This discarded house of worship inspired the Hans Christian Andersen tale A Story from the Dunes.

The Sand-Buried Church
The whitewashed tower of the Sand-Buried Church is all that remains above ground.

That evening, we had a lovely dinner at Café & Restaurant Kokkenes. We laughed over childhood memories and recent vacation recollections while indulging on fish soup and orange sorbet. It was a satisfying end to our last night in Denmark.

Day 7

The next morning, we went on a rushed quest in the rain on the shores of the North Sea for lucky adder stones. Adder stones are rocks with naturally occurring holes in them. In ancient times, they were believed to be made from the hardened saliva of serpents (hence the name adder) and have magical properties. For some reason, there are a larger than normal quantity of them on the beaches around Skagen. After only a few minutes of searching, Jason got particularly good at spotting them. He found seven total and our niece located one. I found nothing. Good thing my husband believes sharing is caring.

After our hasty beach search, we departed for the Aalborg airport with a stop in the old center of the town. Though we were in a bit of a hurry, we enjoyed a walk around the Budolfi Church and the Helligåndsklostret (Aalborg Kloster), which was built in 1431. We also stopped in the Historiske Museum’s shop where we spent all our remaining kroners.

On a final Danish note, the pastries in Denmark were dependably the best we’ve had in Europe. Sorry France, you were inconsistent. Kobenhavner Tebirkes, which are comprised of a couple layers of laminated dough, a thin filling of marzipan, and a generous topping of poppy seeds were my favorite. Yum!

Amsterdam, our last destination, will be the final focus of this long-worded journey through our European exploits.