Desert Pursuits Part II

Oddly, although the temperatures were rather cool in Moab, we spent the afternoon, following our Dinosaur Stomping Ground Tracks excursion, in a Fiery Furnace. The Fiery Furnace is an area of Arches National Park that’s covered in a labyrinth of towering sandstone fins. There are no paths or signs in this region and access is limited to special hiking permits and ranger-led tours. We’ve been trying to join one of these tours for years now but tickets are hard to come by. Finally, this time, success was ours!

Beyond this slit, three arches awaited.
Beyond this slit, three arches awaited.

The Fiery Furnace was impressive and worth the wait. Our three-hour expedition involved discovering quite a few arches, crawling through cracks, hopping over fins, and wedging up steep rock. It was fantastic! It’s easy to see why searches/rescues happen in the Fiery Furnace every two weeks on average though. Getting lost or breaking a limb would be simple in that sea of crevices.

We hiked down fins, over fins, and up fins in the Fiery Furnace.
We hiked down fins, over fins, and up fins in the Fiery Furnace.
Skull Arch is among the Fiery Furnace's numerous surprises.
Skull Arch is among the Fiery Furnace’s numerous surprises.

We finished our hiking day with what should have been a quick jaunt to Eye of the Whale Arch, which is also in Arches National Park. This arch is accessible via a short hiking trail that juts off a 4×4 road. Although only about two miles of four-wheeling is required to reach the arch’s footpath, it’s a rough enough journey to discourage all but the hardiest of off-roaders…and my too-assured husband.

The Fiery Furnace is both roomy and squishy.
The Fiery Furnace is both roomy and squishy.
The Fiery Furnace frequently required crab walking and undignified scampering.
The Fiery Furnace frequently required crab walking and undignified scampering.

Jason suggested that we check out Eye of the Whale and was convinced that our Forester could handle its bumpy access road. I, on the other hand, remained thoroughly unconvinced. Clearly, if I’m taking the time to convey this story in great detail, I was right but let’s proceed as if you don’t already know that.

Trekking through the Fiery Furnace felt like an adventure.
Trekking through the Fiery Furnace felt like an adventure.

Jason’s confidence bested my caution and off to Eye of the Whale we went. A little over a mile in, the road traversed an extensive wash area where it had been so distorted by the intermittent flow of water that our mighty Subaru seemed unavoidably destined for High Centerville. Yet, Jason remained irrationally undaunted. We made it halfway through the washy patch before he finally realized that, as ever, my assessment was correct. However, because we were surrounded by steep embankments, we ended up having to drive backwards for quite a ways to a point wide enough for turning around. Going forward was bad enough, trying to navigate in reverse was completely unsettling.

Balanced Rock, the size of three school buses, is just one of Arches many wonders.
Balanced Rock, the size of three school buses, is just one of Arches many wonders.

After all that, there was no way I was missing Eye of the Whale so we parked our car and trekked the last bit to its trailhead on foot. Eye of the Whale was pretty cool and provided great views through its opening of Herdina Park, the western section of Arches. So, at least, this ill-conceived outing wasn’t a complete flop.

Eye of the Whale is "fishy" on one side. This isn't that side.
Eye of the Whale is “fishy” on one side. This isn’t that side.

During our return drive, a souped-up Jeep passed us. Its passengers were plainly concerned about our ability to make it out. They made sure we cleared one particularly brutal hill before continuing on their way. The moral of this story? Wives should be heeded at all times. They are infallibly wise and always right. Don’t agree? That’s because you’re wrong.

Jason loved Intrepid's constantly changing surface.
Jason loved Intrepid’s constantly changing surface.
Intrepid just kept dishing out the awesome.
Intrepid just kept dishing out the awesome.

We spent our last day in Moab biking the Intrepid Trail System at Dead Horse Point State Park. Intrepid offers seventeen miles of mouthwatering singletracks. It provided us with nonstop delights, from its breathtaking and intimidating panoramas of Canyonlands National Park to its twisting joy of a path. While biking nine miles on the Big Chief, Great Pyramid, and Raven Roll Trails, we took in the Colorado River from 2,000 feet up and raced through playful rock gardens and undulating grasslands. Dead Horse Point is a mountain biker’s dream, a dream I hope to have again soon.

The views from Intrepid are unbelievable and worthy of pause.
The views from Intrepid are unbelievable and worthy of pause.

Oh Moab! No praise could ever overstate you, no frilly vocabulary could ever adequately describe you, and no amount of visits could ever make you commonplace. Between your stunning scenery and diverse diversions, you will forever remain one of my favorite spots on earth.

Desert Pursuits Part I

Moab is a biannual habit for Jason and me. We’ve made spring and fall trips to its scarlet cliffs and exhilarating trails for many years now. Yet, Moab still surprises us with its thrills and resilient splendor. I offer our latest escapades as proof.

Klonzo's trails zig through hillsides of burning red.
Klonzo’s trails zig through hillsides of burning red.

We chose the early part of November for our Moab adventures this fall. It was a touch chilly but I’d take a jacket over the touring hordes any day.

Klonzo contains a variety of terrain, from boulders to sand.
Klonzo contains a variety of terrain, from boulders to sand.
Jason recently bought me a new bike. I love it but its giant tires and unique frame threw me for a loop a few times at Klonzo...or almost over my handlebars.
Jason recently bought me a new bike. I love it but its giant tires and unique frame threw me for a loop a few times at Klonzo…or almost over my handlebars.

Our first afternoon in Moab we biked Klonzo. Klonzo is a series of singletracks built in 2012 by the BLM. We didn’t even know it existed until we were heading down to Moab this time. At the last minute, we decided to give it a try and hallelujah for that! We relished our not-too-technical romp on its Borderline, http://www.cheapambienpriceonline.com Wahoo, and Cross Canyon Trails, winding through fiery knolls and over unyielding slickrock. We only made it five miles before pricking rain sent us pedaling back to the trailhead in a hurry but those 26,400 feet were glorious!

Jason requested some stomping at the stomping grounds.
Jason requested some stomping at the stomping grounds.

The following morning we hit another new path, this time on foot: the Dinosaur Stomping Ground Tracks. This trail leads, as its name suggests, to an area of slickrock covered with an abundance of dinosaur footprints. The route is only three miles in total and gradually ascends over meandering tongues of stone, making both the journey and its endpoint a lot of fun.

Dinosaur tracks are stamped everywhere at the Dinosaur Stomping Grounds.
Dinosaur tracks are stamped everywhere at the Dinosaur Stomping Grounds.
Jason, for some reason, really enjoys taking pictures of me taking pictures.
Jason, for some reason, really enjoys taking pictures of me taking pictures.

Next week I will divulge the details of the rest of our Moab outing. There will be blazing boilers, 4×4 slipups, and lofty ledges galore. It’s sure to be everything you’d ever want in a post about a trip you didn’t take.

The Family Stone Part II: Other Spouters and Splashers

The next day, we all jumped in our respective vehicles, forming a caravan of familial trippers, to journey around the park. We saw everything from a dragon’s maw to an acid lake during that gradual loop through Yellowstone. The following is an account of our round.

Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in Yellowstone, was difficult to see under its shroud of steam but the intense bacterial mats surrounding it were hard to miss.
Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in Yellowstone, was difficult to see under its shroud of steam but the intense bacterial mats surrounding it were hard to miss.

We began by heading east from Old Faithful, toward Fishing Bridge. At Fishing Bridge we paused for an extended time to allow for multiple unsynchronized potty-stops and to purchase extra layers of clothing. Why the extra layers you ask? Yellowstone was cold! Although it was August, the temperatures never rose above 50 F and they definitely drifted a lot lower. Most of us were not prepared for this unseasonal preposterousness and the omnipresent rain didn’t help our readiness.

It was neat to have a group of family members traveling with us.
It was neat to have a group of family members traveling with us.

However, the disagreeable weather didn’t stop our convoy from continuing north to the Mud Volcano area. The Mud Volcano region is stranger than fantasy. There you will see hillsides cooked by steam, lakes as acidic as stomach juices, and seething masses of ashen mud. Your nose will constantly be assaulted by the pungent aroma of hydrogen sulfide gas, something akin to a rotten egg reek. Yes, it’s a putrid, bizarre, and magical place.

Lower Falls is twice the height of Niagara Falls. It roars 308 feet down into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
Lower Falls is twice the height of Niagara Falls. It roars 308 feet down into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

After Mud Volcano, we stopped for a picnic at Otter Creek. Our table was situated in a lovely spot near the Yellowstone River but the chilliness encouraged our eating to proceed rather speedily.

Acid-loving thermophiles have transformed the runoff from Pinwheel and Whirligig Geysers into these streams of green.
Acid-loving thermophiles have transformed the runoff from Pinwheel and Whirligig Geysers into these streams of green.

Following our quickly-consumed meal, we checked out the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River from Artist Point. Lower Falls plummets 308 feet into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Between the emerald tint of the gushing water and the red hues of the rusting canyon, this chasm is definitely a keeper.

Vixen Geyser, so named because of its temperamental disposition, erupts for seconds to nearly an hour at internals that range from minutes to hours.
Vixen Geyser, so named because of its temperamental disposition, erupts for seconds to nearly an hour at internals that range from minutes to hours.

The majesty of the falls persuaded most of the members of our group to seek a better look via Uncle Tom’s Trail, which leads to an unparalleled view of the waterworks from 500 feet down into the canyon. Uncle Tom’s Trail is not recommended for those with heart, lung, or other health conditions…or little brothers with acrophobia. This short but strenuous route travels over 300 stairs made of perforated steel sheeting, AKA holey metal, which means that you remain quite aware of the extreme drop-offs beyond your feet as you descend it. Drew was not thrilled about the vertical vertigo produced by Uncle Tom’s but he managed to make it to its terminus with some motivational chiding from his child.

Porcelain Springs in Norris Geyser Basin is colored by silica.
Porcelain Springs in Norris Geyser Basin is colored by silica.
We spotted this elk near the road.
We spotted this elk near the road.

Our last stop on the way back to Old Faithful was Norris Geyser Basin. This utterly wacky region was mesmerizing. Norris is one of Yellowstone’s most acidic and fieriest stretches. The water in many of its hot springs maintains temperatures above the boiling point and its colliding colors are nearly as extreme. We lucked out and saw Constant and Vixen Geysers shooting their stream as we wandered past them but even without those interesting bursts Norris would have been a rare treat.

Vibrant groundcover paints Biscuit Basin as well.
Vibrant groundcover paints Biscuit Basin as well.

The next morning, before Jason and I headed back to Utah, we toured the Black Sand, Biscuit, and Fountain Paint Pot areas. We were still eager to discover more of Yellowstone’s spurted secrets. We saw Fountain, Clepsydra, Cliff, and Spouter Geysers explode but Black Sand Pool was probably the most interesting feature we encountered that a.m. The natural plumbing feeding Black Sand Pool periodically shudders and groans like strained pipes before it shoots a wave of bubbles to the surface of the pool. The ground literally shakes beneath your feet. We weren’t expecting this and it was pretty dang cool.

The Fountain Paint Pot is a peculiar area in the Lower Geyser Basin where acidic waters have dissolved stone and created pools of bubbling sludge.
The Fountain Paint Pot is a peculiar area in the Lower Geyser Basin where acidic waters have dissolved stone and created pools of bubbling sludge.

Yellowstone’s bubbling springs, blasting geysers, and polychromatic streams are incredible and beautiful. It’s easy to see why it’s one of the most visited national parks. Got some family and/or some time? I’d recommend checking it out.