Mary Jane and the Goblin Part I: Slots

Jason and I are Moab junkies. Last spring, we decided to create an outdoor outing extravaganza by combining a visit to Moab with a visit to Goblin Valley. We also opted to invite some family members to join us for the Goblin Valley portion. All the above were excellent decisions. Others made regarding this vacation were perhaps less prudent, and some of humanity’s missteps witnessed during these travels even more so. I’ll get to those soon while covering the trip’s plentiful, mysterious slots and silhouettes.

Sorrel Ridge
Sorrel Ridge Trail starts at the Sorrel River Ranch and is appropriate for even the moderately lazy.

Moab was the first stop on our destination circuit. Jason and I made it into town with just enough time to complete the short Sorrel Ridge Trail before dark, which is 1.8 miles in total. Sorrel Ridge, unsurprisingly, is a ridge overlooking the winding Colorado River. We found the views lovely in all directions and the desert wildflowers prolific on this easy trek. As I had injured my knee snowboarding only five days earlier and had an acute case of patellar bursitis, my knee was not in agreement with the rest of my body about the difficulty of this activity. Stepping up or downhill was not pleasant. Of course, patellar objections didn’t deter me in any way.

Mary Jane Canyon
Mary Jane Canyon is not technical but is splashy.

After getting some overdue sleep to counteract a couple crazy weeks, we headed into Mary Jane Slot Canyon the next day on the Professor Creek Trail. Professor Creek originates in the La Sals and travels to the Colorado River passing through Mary Jane on its way. The Professor Creek Trail follows that stream’s flow through Mary Jane. The majority of the canyon isn’t too constricted, but a section of it narrows to just 10 feet with walls towering over 100 feet. Amidst these confines, a 30-foot waterfall drops over a bulky chokestone. That waterfall was our destination and is the end of the hikeable portion of Mary Jane.

Professor Creek Trail
While the Professor Creek Trail is reportedly extremely popular, such was not the case on the spring Thursday we encountered it.

Reviews of this 8.4-mile route said hikers should be prepared to get their feet wet in multiple creek crossings. If by “multiple” the writers meant exactly 180, they were correct. Am I exaggerating? No, I literally mean there are 90 crossings each way adding up to 180 in total. Since temperatures reached the low 80s that day, those dips were mostly welcomed, except near the waterfall. There, we lingered too long relishing the echoing surge while the shade from the lofty walls and chill from the cool water dropped our internal thermostats to uncomfortable levels.

Professor Creek Falls
Professor Creek tumbles off a chokestone four miles, and 90 creek crossings, from the trailhead.

It took us about 5.5 hours to complete this trek. Apparently, most people take less than four, but we didn’t mind achieving slowpoke status, especially with injuries considered. For though it handled this long, flat hike better than our quick climb the night before, my unhappy knee turned bright red in patches from the activity. I thought maybe I had somehow found some poison ivy, but Jason theorized the blotches were related to the swelling. As the rest of my body showed no hints of a toxic interaction, Jason was probably right.

Mary Jane's conclusion
The water flowing from the falls wasn’t as frigid as snow runoff can be, but it did numb over time.

The next morning, it was time for a change in scenery and weather. Instead of 82 degrees, we got 61 degrees and 28 MPH winds. We left Moab in a rainy state and headed to Farnsworth Canyon near Goblin Valley State Park. Unfortunately, the storm did the same.

Farnsworth Canyon
We didn’t see even a single person in Farnsworth Canyon. Was it the tricky access road or the foolhardy day?

We chose Farnsworth Canyon because its slot section is limited, unlike many other trails in the area. With the rest of the canyon a low flash-flood risk, we believed we were selecting a path wisely. As the precipitation was supposed to stop by the time we started our hike, we assumed slot thoughts were only a secondary precaution. However, neither the timing nor terrain went as expected.

Farnsworth Narrows
The Farnsworth Narrows pass quickly, but they are indeed slim.

As anticipated, the clouds cleared, and the sunshine returned as we neared Farnsworth’s trailhead… and then the clouds came back about half an hour later. Just minutes after their arrival, thunder began regularly interrupting the tranquility with demanding crashes. Did I mention that this whole hike travels through a wash? While only a small section is confined enough to be potentially deadly during a flash flood, the wash looked like it had seen an outpouring mere hours before. I wasn’t keen on being caught in a surprise gush of water, fatal or otherwise, or, alternatively, serving as a lightning rod. Thus, what would have been a peaceful ramble turned into an unnerving march.

Sunrise and Shadow
The Sunrise and Shadow Panel is tricky to find even with GPS, especially if you are simultaneously surveying for rushing water.

Constantly watching for signs of an approaching flood proved tiring. We thought about turning around several times but pressed on to see the Sunrise and Shadow Panel. One section of this panel doesn’t get nearly as much sun exposure and is therefore much better preserved than the other part. It gives you an appreciation for UV’s capacity to erase over time, but it does require some rock scrambling to see well. By the time we returned to the main route after viewing the pictographs, the thunder had dissipated. With the threat level reduced, we decided to go a little farther. We ended up doing the whole stick of the trail’s lollypop but not the lollypop itself.

We hiked 4.15 miles with me nervous for about four of those. Farnsworth’s slot section only lasts about 0.2 miles. Most days, we would have lamented its brevity; on this occasion, we praised Hephaestus. During our return, the weather being what it was, we practically ran through that segment completing it in four minutes. Clusters of tree branches perched high on boulders testified of the power of water as we hurried through, a power we were not keen on immersing ourselves in. Our omnipresent anxiety did nothing to keep us warm though. Despite the fretting, we had to wear two jackets most of the time and ended up with beanies and gloves on as well. I’d love to do this path again without overflow and amperage on my mind.

The next day, Jason and I hiked a small portion of Bell Canyon while we awaited the arrival of family members. We did about a mile and a half total, just enough to get into the real beginnings of Bell, wind around a bit, and appreciate what we wouldn’t have time for. We will certainly be going back to Bell and Little Wild Horse Canyons, which connect to form an alluring loop.

That concluded the confined portion of our trip. Afterwards, the landscapes expanded, at least above ground, and all the risk went below the water table. Likewise, our scrutiny of questionable human decisions expanded beyond those made by our group. Be privy to that scrutiny as we visit the holey temple in my next post.

Big Slopes, Big Skies, and Big Toes

For Christmas, Jason gave me a trip to Big Sky Resort in Montana. There are 10 amazing ski resorts within about an hour of us, so why drive six hours away? For the curious, exploring new slopes always holds appeal even if, in the end, you’d prefer your familiar favorites. Did I prefer my familiar favorites? Another thousand words or so, and I may tell you.

Speaking of new slopes, there are quite a few to get lost on at Big Sky. Big Sky contains 4,366 feet of elevation gain in 5,800 massive ridable acres. That’s considerably more acreage than our usual resorts, Brighton’s 1,050, Solitude’s 1,200, or even Snowbird’s 2,500.

The Big Couloir
The Big Couloir drops 1,400 vertical feet and reaches a steepness of 50 degrees, so that’s a Big no from me.

Since Big Sky has 24 lifts, not including surface lifts, and 150 named runs, picking our first route was completely overwhelming. Eventually, we decided to take the Ramcharger lift to El Dorado and then Southern Comfort with the thought of getting on a run called Africa. We made it to Nile, a fun tree run with more rolling wind drifts than tree pack, but missed our turnoff from Pacifier to hit Africa. Apparently, the Nile doesn’t flow through Africa like my schoolteachers told me. In all honesty, I didn’t like Pacifier much; it was just a long traverse with lots of people and subpar, crusty snow.

time and temperature
Lone Mountain was created by magma moving up a vertical crack and branching out laterally. When the softer sedimentary rock around its tree-shaped block eroded, this beautiful mountain was revealed.

The bulk of our day was more pleasing though. We took Swift Current to Calamity Jane, which offered more satisfaction and less people. Then, we took Powder Seeker to the base of Lone Mountain wanting a better view of the peak’s famous triple-diamond chute, The Big Couloir. Lone Mountain is the most iconic feature of Big Sky, which is probably why it is pictured on their logo. At 11,160 feet, it puts Big Sky in the 25-highest elevation resorts in North America with some of Utah’s resorts right behind it. Incidentally, The Big Couloir looked treacherous with thin icy channels layered between dark fingers of dacite. You won’t catch me longing for some of that Big action.

Nile
The trees framing Big Sky’s slopes, different than Utah’s Douglas firs and Engelmann spruce, looked as misplaced to us palm trees would have.

From the base of Lone Mountain, we rode down Upper Morningstar and found the views better than the snow quality as the surface was brittle compared to elsewhere. Afterward, we tried Mr. K and then Mr. K again, which we found an enjoyable, lengthy green. We were surprised to encounter it uncrowded unlike the other greens we had traveled earlier. Unfortunately, the agreeableness of Mr. K was diminished by the un-agreeableness of my toes. The digits on my right foot were hurting unbearably, though I had no idea why. We had stopped earlier for me to take off my boots because my toes were aching so bad, but that didn’t keep them from commencing the pain just an hour later. My last trip down Mr. K was mighty excruciating. As I am typically the last person to notice or acknowledge that I am in pain, it would be safe to assume that my toes were screaming like a group of howler monkeys fighting over a squishy banana. Even with two breaks, one to remove excess layers and another to give my foot a breather, we were out on the mountain for more than four hours.

The next day, I was determined not to let my toes decrease my enjoyment of Big Sky. I took 800 mg of ibuprofen as a preventative measure. Still, a couple times down Lobo later, my foot was starting its same painful pattern. I opted to remove my socks altogether to give my toes more room hoping that would partially appease them. Jason initially laughed at this idea, but I didn’t let that keep me from doing what turned out to be a brilliant maneuver. My discomfort immediately decreased. (I also may have stuck my feet in the snow.) The extra room provided enough relief for us to do a full afternoon of boarding with only a 30-minute break. In total, we boarded for about three and half hours. We did Lobo twice, Lobo Meadows twice, revisited Calamity Jane twice, and finished with Mr. K so I wouldn’t have bad feelings after my throbbing the day before. Notice a pattern? I like my runs like Noah likes his animals. I told Jason I was happy to explore, but if we found paths we liked, I wanted to repeat them at least once. The first time I do a run, I am usually slow while assessing upcoming terrain. After that, I go faster and just enjoy. Reasonably, I wanted to get to the part where I go faster and just enjoy.

slope joy
Few activities bring Jason as much joy as riding down a mountain on a stick.

Did we sort out what was wrong with my toes? Yes, after more troubleshooting we concluded the obvious. Unusually high temperatures with their corresponding foot expansions, thick socks, and new (apparently tighter) boots were the combined culprits. Putting lots of pressure on your toesies when they are already squished too snugly in rigid foot attire does not increase their satisfaction with their circumstances.

Lone Mountain
Lone Mountain’s cirques are part of a rock glacier. Rock glaciers move like ice glaciers and contain ice that is shielded from melting by their deposits of debris.

Speaking of those high temps, our first day at Big Sky was cloudy with a high of 47 degrees. It started out fairly icy but improved greatly by midafternoon. Our second day was sunny and reached 53 degrees. The snow was quite slushy, excessively so in spots. For March at Big Sky’s elevation, the weather seemed to echo the unfortunate truth of a warming planet.

Lone and long
The longest run at Big Sky extends for about six miles.

What did we think of Big Sky coming from our powder snobbery as Utah natives? Big Sky is beautiful. The equipment and staff are first rate. (We rode an eight-person heated bubble lift for the first time and approved.) The runs are long; they just keep going and going. Lone Mountain looms picturesquely above many of those runs. However, the snow isn’t as good. Sorry Montana, you just ain’t got Utah’s powder pizzazz. Surprisingly, with only 29 inches mid-mountain and 53 at Headwaters, the terrain was less rock infested and obstacle laden than the slopes at some of our beloved Utah resorts would be with 30 inches more. Is Big Sky more diligent about grooming, or does it merely have a boulder deficiency? It certainly does not have a patron deficiency as it was quite crowded in some areas despite its spaciousness.

Our conclusion? Big Sky was worth the drive. We enjoyed discovering its new terrain while, contradictorily, I missed my accustomed favorites. We felt we only saw 2% of the resort in the two days we were there. Further exploration would be needed to fully assess the big picture at Big Sky; we are willing to do that research.

Quick Capitol

Last spring, in a total last-minute whim with less than a 24-hour notice, we decided to join my sister and a couple of her kids on a weekend getaway to Capitol Reef National Park. Brief but beautiful could adequately sum the whole thing up… but I’ll go for completely average with my slightly lengthier account of the excursion.

Golden Throne
The Golden Throne is over 7,000 feet high.

We arrived in Capitol Reef late in the afternoon. That gave us just enough time to complete the Golden Throne Trail, 1.8 miles each way, before the arrival of night transformed the throne into more of an obscure sofa. The Golden Throne, an imposing dome, rules 1,400 feet above Capitol Gorge. Although it is comprised of Navajo Sandstone, a Carmel Formation topping supplies its characteristic yellow stain. From the Golden Throne Trail, much better views of this geological curiosity can be observed than from Capitol Gorge below. Getting to the trailhead does require a drive through part of that gorge, a surreal experience in of itself along a gravelly water-carved slot that coils between immense sandstone cliffs.

Oyler Mine
In 1952, Capitol Reef National Monument, not yet a national park, was officially opened to uranium mining in the interest of national security. It was not conservation sensibilities that ultimately halted this scarring work but low uranium concentrations.

The next day, we strode three miles to the top of Cassidy Arch and back. Cassidy Arch hangs 400-500 feet above Grand Wash. Its trail gains 550 feet in roughly half a mile, which I suppose makes it somewhat strenuous, but it just felt like a steady climb to us.

the cracks in the fold
From further back, the extreme gaps beneath Cassidy Arch are strikingly apparent.
Cassidy Arch
Cassidy Arch, named after outlaw Butch Cassidy, defies conventions like its namesake.

The craziest thing about this arch is that you can walk out on top of it, which isn’t usually allowed these days in national parks. Further, the terrain around the arch slopes down into a sheer alcove with pocked walls that drop hundreds of feet. The setting makes the tummy tingle and the bladder want to tinkle, but it also makes for some intriguing pictures and memorable incidences.

skip to your fall
A decline down to certain oblivion isn’t usually something you skip to your lou over.

Aside from some excellent conversations and a few fantastic meals at Capitol Burger, Curry Pizza, and Chak Balam, that’s all we had time for. Our trip was less than 36 hours from start to finish and less than 72 hours from ideation to completion. As it was short and sweet, I’d like to imagine this post was too.