Last time we traveled to Maui, we did it all. We took in many of the island’s main attractions and went home even more worn out than we started. So, when we found out Jason’s employer would be funding an island outing, our second visit to Maui, we vowed to stop and smell the tuberoses this time.

Thinking about taking a trip to Maui yourself? You need to just accept that you will have to pick and choose your own adventure on the island. You will not be able to do and see everything. In order to make your Maui experience more pleasant, I’ve decided to be marginally useful and reveal some of the activities that may not be worth a slot on your vacation timetable. Scattered throughout my rundown of our island days, I have included some comments on what Jason and I would repeat again and what we shouldn’t have bothered doing in the first place. May it guide you in your quest to make the most of Maui while not making too much of Maui.

Let me begin my string of pearls with this wisdom: one of our key mistakes last time was not making time for food. Maui has many tempting dining spots. Don’t skip out on them because you are too busy hiking volcanos and gallivanting through paradise. Remember, good food is paradise.

On a completely unrelated and totally useless note, it was hard to pack for Maui in the middle of winter. I couldn’t even remember what summer clothes I owned, but that was a small price to pay for an exotic break from a bleak season.

Day 1: Layovers with Nick

Too Much Travel

Our vacation began with a long day of travel, including a layover at LAX.

Nick’s Fishmarket

We ate dinner with a large group of Jason’s starving coworkers at Nick’s Fishmarket. Calamari come to momma!

What would I change? Nothing. The flight you can’t avoid, and Nick’s Fishmarket you shouldn’t avoid.

Day 2: A Whale of a Time

Running Ashore

We started off our morning with a run along the beach. We should have started it much earlier. Humidity is not cool!

Whale Watching

In the middle of winter, thousands of humpback whales congregate around the Hawaiian Islands. We went out with Makai Adventures on a small boat, accompanied by some friends, hoping to see a few of these ocean beasts; we encountered over 30. We spotted both adults and calves flipping tails, waiving pectorals, and generally showing off. Many of them were curious about us and interested in getting closer to our vessel. A hydrophone dunked just a few feet into the water picked up their song. Whale songs, we learned, are unique to regions and change a little from year to year, just as styles change. Whales are pretty trendy.

Lahaina Grill

Lahaina Grill has been voted one of the top 25 restaurants in the U.S. the last four years in a row. So, we happily joined some friends in sampling its famous cuisine. The service at Lahaina Grill was impeccable and the fare scrumptious. (One member of our group sucked up eight glasses of soda during dinner, and his cup never went dry.) I’d recommend the wagyu beef ravioli. I know it is tempting to eat fish for every meal when in Hawaii, but this ravioli is worth interrupting that prudent strategy for.

What would I change? This was a fantastic day! I’d do the run much earlier to avoid the heat, but that would be my only alteration. As a bit of information, Makai Adventures has their customers remove their shoes on their boats. That might matter to you if you have a toenail phobia.

Day 3: Hana Here We Come!

We woke up at 5:45 chipper and ready to hit the road… okay, we hit the snooze until about 6:00, but it was early. Our primary purpose in riding to Hana was to hike through a bamboo forest on the Pipiwai Trail in the Kipahulu portion of Haleakala National Park, a path we started out on during our last visit to Hana but ran out of daylight to complete. Although our main goal was worthy, we still stopped for some lovely distractions along our route.

Ke’anae Arboretum

A rainbow eucalyptus grove and taro fields provided a peaceful place to stretch our legs.

Ke’anae Peninsula

This jutting rock finger is surrounded by sharp boulders and swift currents. Its 160-year-old stone church was the only structure to survive a tsunami that hit back in 1946. Both the church and shore are worth exploring, but this is not a place to explore the water.

Koki Beach

We stopped briefly to take in this picturesque cove with its crimson sand and coconut-topped island.

Pipiwai Trail

Our last time in Maui, we trekked a portion of the Pipiwai Trail, the section up to Makahiku Falls, but we missed the best parts: the bamboo forest and Waimoka Falls. We wandered it all this time. The bamboo forest was incredible. When the wind blew, the stems clanged like wind chimes or pebbles rolling down a hill. The breeze would also make the tops undulate like waves in a leafy ocean. All our senses were immersed in the forest’s serenity. Waimoka Falls, the trail’s endpoint, a frothy veil tumbling off a 400-foot cliff, was dazzling too.

Local Fruit

On our return journey, we devoured some locally-grown apple bananas and guavas from an obliging stand.

With our limited halts, we got back from our road trip just in time to join Jason’s coworkers for a luau on the beach. We enjoyed some Hawaiian music, and I learned a little hula alongside many members of our group. What would I change about this day? Nothing. I enjoyed all of our stops, especially the Pipiwai Trail. Incidentally, I would recommend spending time on the Pipiwai Trail over the Seven Sacred Pools. Also, if you’re doing the road to Hana, don’t expect to be able to stop at too many places along the way. Pick your top priorities; you can’t do it all.

Day 4: Sea and Sky

Polo Beach

We spent some time in the morning just relaxing, dipping our feet in the water, and reading books.

Helicopter Tour

In the afternoon, we took a helicopter ride through west Maui and south Moloka’i. This was spectacular! The Moloka’i sea cliffs, the highest in the world, dropped 3,315 feet of awesome on us. We also got an aerial view of the largest coral reef in the United States and four or five wandering whales. Flying through the deeply-riveted gorges of the Iao Valley was another flight highlight.

Helicopter outings are expensive, but we thought the West Maui and Moloka’i Tour was worth the money. I would recommend Blue Hawaiian and their Eco-Star helicopters.

Day 5: Picture Paradise

Beached Again

We spent an hour or two in the early afternoon on the beach reading books and soaking in the water again. That day, the ocean hitting Polo Beach was amidst a splashy tantrum. A red flag was flying, and the waves were packing some serious energy. It was strange to see wild waters at this usually-calm spot.

Secret Photography

In the afternoon, we did a 4-hour sunset photography workshop with Douglas Hoffman. We went to Secret Beach and Makena End. Those same peculiarly-robust swells made for some great pictures.

Ko

We finished the evening with dinner at Ko. Everything was delicious, but the complimentary breads served with edamame hummus, Korean chili sauce, and lavender honey butter were my favorite part of the meal.

What would I change? Nothing. The food was great, and the photography tour was a unique way to capture some memories.

Day 6: Fishy Highways

The King’s Highway

Our final day on the island, we got up early to hike the King’s Highway, an ancient path through austere lava fields that was once reserved for royalty. The sharp lava stones comprising and surrounding this trail seemed intent on continuing their molten ways for they were radiating heat despite the early hour.

Coconut’s Fish Cafe

We ate fish tacos at Coconuts’ Fish Café for lunch, our favorite fish tacos of the entire trip. Cheap and delicious make an excellent combination.

Maui Tropical Plantation

This agricultural acreage offered insights into farming on the island and opportunities to add more beautiful shots to the thousands I’d already taken.

Ho’okipa Beach

We stopped at this beach to try to catch some sea turtles being sleepy. We were rewarded with 23 napping reptiles, including a baby.

Paia Fish Market

Before catching our flight home, we gobbled fish tacos again, this time from the Paia Fish Market. These were also excellent, but we liked Coconut’s catch better. (And no, you can never have too many fish tacos.)

If you hike the Kings Highway, do it early in the morning. Parking spots fill up fast, and the lava rocks feel like jagged blow dryers. Of our final-day adventures, Maui Tropical Plantation would have been the easiest to skip; it was relaxing though, and you can wander around the grounds for free.

Our opinion of Maui based on our second stay? While Maui still remains our least favorite of the Hawaiian Islands we’ve visited, this vacation felt more like a vacation and less like a marathon in paradise. May your journeys to Maui be equally full of tuberose sniffing.