The Culture and Clefts of Southern Utah

Members of my family have participated in a canyoneering adventure every summer for a few years now. I suppose it has become a bit of a squelchy tradition. This year, we did not one but two slot canyons, plus threw in a coupe plays, some cliffs, and a little non-soggy climbing. We shoved it all into one packed weekend in Southern Utah.

our gap group
All ages and fitness levels were represented in our group.
a simple slot
Though not particularly technical or overwhelmingly wet, Kanarra Canyon still provides a touch of adventure.

Kanarra Canyon, which is located just outside Cedar City, was the first slot on our agenda. You can’t go to Cedar City in the summer without going to the Utah Shakespearean Festival; it is technically impossible. If you don’t believe me, look it up. Instead of trying to pull a Don Quixote and fight the impossible, we went to two plays before doing any canyoneering. The first was the best version of Hamlet I’ve ever seen, featuring Quinn Mattfeld. We also partook of the flashy silliness that is Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. Its catchy tunes got stuck in my head like always. Go, go, go Joe!

Kanarraville Falls
You’ve probably seen this scene a dozen times on Instagram, but this picture is totally different because it was taken by me.
the majesty of insignificance
Slot canyons have a way of making you feel like an insignificant insect lost in a damp crevice.

The following day, we went on to Kanarra Canyon. During the last 15 years, social media nearly spoiled this hike with its pictures and praises. Kanarraville’s 350 residents couldn’t shoulder the 40,000 visitors that trudged through their canyon and water source in 2015. Hence, the number of permits is now limited to 150 per day. The trail felt a little crowded with just that many; I can’t imagine how it would have been with 10 times more. Like waiting in the line at Space Mountain? The temperatures oscillated between too hot at our outset to too cold as the canyon deepened and tapered, but we were easily distracted from this discomfort by the lofty walls and idyllic stream. Even the youngest among us managed the terrain, yet it still felt like an adventure.

cascading obstacles
The trail through Kanarra Canyon crosses a series of waterfalls, some of them simpler to ascend than others.
pond scum
This seemed like a closed-mouth sort of pond.

After Kanarra Canyon, we traveled to Zion National Park. There, the brave cooled off in a pool along the Lower Pine Creek Waterfall Trail the speedy way, i.e. cliff jumping. Afterward, we had just enough time to finish the short one-mile Canyon Overlook Trail before it got dark.

slender puddles
This notch looked too tiny for cliff jumping, but no injuries resulted.
jump drama
As jumpers’ comfort levels increased, so did their theatrics.

The next morning, my sister and I stayed with a nephew too young to obtain maternal approval to descend through Keyhole Canyon while the rest of the group… obviously, they went through Keyhole Canyon. Keyhole Canyon is reasonably short, about one mile, and unreasonably slim. Pictures alone are enough to make the claustrophobic panic. Those that went described the stagnant water they had to wade through as putrid and black in places, especially at the top of the canyon. We are talking a Death-Star-trash-compactor level of repulsive here. On the flip side, they said the light filtering through the crimsons of the Navajo sandstone looked like a subterranean sunset. The group had to do three rappels and completed the canyon in three hours. In the meantime, my sister and I completed some window shopping and snack consumption with the little guy.

Keyhole Canyon
Keyhole Canyon is not much larger than a keyhole in some spots.
tight yet tasteful
Wetsuits seem designed to make their wearers appear dorky, but Jason looks rather fine in one.

Our weekend in Southern Utah was crammed with culture, cliffs, canyons, and claustrophobia via Kanarraville and Keyhole. At least it didn’t also include giardia or broken bones because those wouldn’t have sounded right in my last sentence.

Nerdy and Nautical

Jason and I hadn’t been to San Diego Comic Con for a few years until this July. To be honest, we hadn’t pined for it much due to the raging current of humanity we had to ford the last couple times we attended. This year, we tried for passes without being terribly committed to the notion of going. When we acquired Sunday-only tickets the debate continued. Eventually, I pointed out that we both like San Diego and suggested Comic Con be just a paragraph in our San Diego visit. What an excellent plan! That paragraph is below.

We stayed in La Jolla for the first part of our trip. La Jolla is a charming town to walk around with lots of yummy food and cute shops. It’s even more charming when its 70-something weather is nearly 30 degrees cooler than what you left back home. We sampled as many of its culinary offerings as gastrointestinally possible via Puesta, Catania, Cove Point, and NINE-TEN.

brown pelican
Brown Pelicans faced extinction in the 1970s and were only taken off the endangered species list in 2010.

Our wanderings went beyond satisfying our spoiled stomachs to satisfying our curiosity. We meandered on the shore from Shell Beach to the La Jolla Tide Pools searching for, you guessed it, tide pools. Predictably, we found shells at Shell Beach and tide pools at the La Jolla Tide Pools. I suppose whoever named the beaches in La Jolla had the creative capacity of a piece of carpet. At the tide pools, chiton, hermit crabs, anemones, shore crabs, mussels, limpets, little fish, and snails enjoyed their comfy homes in rock channels as we gawked from above. I find these glimpses into the workings of a watery underworld typically unseen absorbing.

striped shore crab
At the Children’s Pool, we encountered a striped shore crab that agreeably let me take pictures of it being bubbly.

We also spent some time in San Diego proper starting with Balboa Park. In all our trips to San Diego, Jason and I had never explored Balboa’s 16 museums and 1,200 acres beyond the zoo. This time, we took on a tiny fraction of what is available at Balboa through the Japanese Friendship Garden and the Museum of Photographic Arts.

sea curves
La Jolla’s cliffs are cratered with caves and other scenic gaps.

The Japanese Friendship Garden is peaceful and aesthetically balanced making use of a steep ravine to create layers of living display. Its koi pond contains the biggest koi I’ve ever encountered. These “show-quality” specimens make other koi look like Goldfish crackers. Did you know that koi are a symbol of longevity because they can live over 200 years? Nope, I didn’t know that either.

La Jolla Cove
La Jolla Cove is a marine refuge area. Apparently, it gets quite fetid at times due to an overabundance of bird feces.

Being a photographer and photography nerd, I loved the Museum of Photographic Arts. Its collections aren’t extensive, but I found the exhibits on Contemporary Photography from Australia and Hidden Worlds fascinating. The section on spirit photography, a popular form of shooting back in the 1800s expressly for capturing the images of ghosts, was particularly intriguing. You’ve got to give those photographers props for successfully tampering with negatives and using double exposures to create fraudulent phantoms over a century before Photoshop could turn fat rolls into nothing more than apparitions.

in the garden
The Japanese Friendship Garden fuses San Diego’s climate with traditional Japanese garden ideals.

One evening after dinner, we hurried off to the Torrey Pines Natural Reserve to do a short hike on the Guy Fleming Trail. In true Sabin fashion, we finished this one right before darkness set in… with maybe a little running at the end to beat the state rangers locking up for the night… maybe.

descending into the Dolphin
The U.S.S. Dolphin had a crew of 27. It felt too cramped for even one me.

The rest of our evenings, we spent back in La Jolla in the company of a cozy fire as waves hurled themselves onto shore boulders with crushing repetition. Those booming breakers, the sharp call of seagulls, and the grainy gusts of the ocean followed us throughout our stay in La Jolla.

The Euterpe became a star.
The Star of India, the oldest merchant ship still sailing, began her career as the Euterpe.

For one last pre-Comic-Con outing, we visited the Maritime Museum of San Diego. The Maritime Museum contains nine boats and two submarines. Its collection of vessels is diverse and pleasing to board. The U.S.S. Dolphin, a submarine with nearly 40 years of service and the record for operating depth, was the first we embarked. I barely survived 10 minutes in its constricted passageways. I guess I can check sonar technician off my list of possible occupations. The San Salvador, the first European vessel to reach America’s West Coast, may be a giant by historical standards, but it certainly wasn’t a giant by dimensional ones. A full-size replica of this, the first Spanish galleon that sailed into San Diego in 1542, left me in awe of the big things that can happen on small boats. The Star of India is the star of the Maritime Museum. It is the oldest active merchant sailing ship in the world. It was built in 1863 and is still taken out at least once a year. In its 150 years, this craft has circumnavigated the globe over 20 times and accepted such diverse roles as carting immigrants to New Zealand, transporting lumber, and functioning as both a salmon fishing vessel and cannery. Ships ahoy!

transported
Our transporter experience was fun, but I’m not convinced it was worth the opportunity cost.

That brings us to our San Diego Comic Con day. This year was Comic Con’s 50th anniversary and something like our fifth time attending. Traditionally, Sunday is a bit slower day at Comic Con, but it was breaking down conventional barriers with human bodies this time. We waited in line over an hour and a half for a transporter experience, which was maybe worth the wait? I’m still not sure. Somehow, we bought a significant number of items for only having hours in the exhibit hall, like a special-edition Halloween hobbit hole and an articulated, 1:6-scale Picard action figure. It’s common knowledge that everyone needs a Halloween hobbit hole and Picard Barbie. As soon as we got back to our room, I fell asleep on the couch as determined to avoid any further human interaction as the Loch Ness Monster.

Going to San Diego for more than just the most famous comic con on the planet meant we were bombarded by the saline and sweaty nearly equally. Since I got a Picard Barbie out of it, that’s an equivalence I can live with.

The Fort and the Park

Jason and I traveled to Colorado recently to attend a family event and spend some time in Estes Park with said family. My sister, her husband, and my dad were amongst those present. It was a short but fulfilling trip with plenty of pines, climbs, dines, temperature declines… and other things that poorly rhyme, which I will not mention at this time.

On route to Estes Park, we stopped in Fort Collins for a day or so. Fort Collins is one of two towns that inspired Disneyland’s Main Street, U.S.A. Its charming edifices surfaced unexpected cravings within me for Matterhorn-shaped macaroons and tipsy pirates. Instead, we toured the New Belgium Brewing Company, shopped in Old Town, and drank tea peacefully at a darling teashop while lightning splashed the sky and thunder growled constant complaints.

a whole lotta lightning
I wasn’t making up that lightning storm bit.
along the Lawn Lake Trail
The Lawn Lake Trail continues for nearly 12 miles. We didn’t continue for 12 miles.

After our respite in Fort Collins, we were off to Estes Park where we had rented a cabin situated in a hilly nook with log beams and room to hang. We wasted no time heading out into the opulence of nature in Rocky Mountain National Park, which is one of the primary reasons visitors swarm Estes Park in the summer. We did the Alluvial Fan Trail, but it was too short to satisfy. So, we followed the Lawn Lake Trail until darkness dissuaded us.

to The Pool
The Fern Lake Trail runs along the Upper Big Thompson River and affords ample magnificent scenery.
Arch Rocks
The path to The Pool passes between two boulders the size of houses.

The next day, rain was in the forecast. We were confident we could beat or outlast it, but I’m not sure there was any logic behind that conviction. If logic wasn’t in our corner, at least luck seemed to be as we trekked to The Pool on the Fern Lake Trail, about 3.5-miles roundtrip. We got back to our car just before the showers picked up substantially. Some members of our group ran (literally) the extra mile out to Fern Falls in order to catch that cascade and still stay ahead of the downpour. It all worked out somehow. Beauty was beheld, proper exercise was performed, and dowsing was delayed.

The Stanley Hotel
Does this historic facade look enchanting or sinister?

After our hike, we had prudently scheduled an indoor activity: a ghost tour at the famous Stanley Hotel. The Stanley Hotel was built in 1909 by Freelan Oscar Stanley of steam-powered-car fame. This 142-room resort is famous for inspiring Stephen King’s The Shining and for providing a set for Dumb and Dumber. The ghost tour was a little spooky but mostly just fun and informative. Learning about the unusual history of the owners and buildings was my favorite part.

Spring or Santa?
Snow accumulated on the ground the night before we left. It felt like Christmas in an alternate universe.

Although it was May, a winter storm warning was issued for the Estes Park area the next day, and we barely missed the worst of it when we headed out. Cute Colorado supplied much to jolt our systems: May snowstorms, historical phantoms, fermented concoctions, and quirky company.