Torrents, Serpents, and the Hamongog

Since snow levels surpassed all standards last winter (2023), Jason and I did not attempt any local hikes until Memorial Day, and then only after going snowboarding a couple times during the holiday weekend. Following our slushy exertions, we exchanged boards for hiking gear. That exchange, involving voluble beasts and wobbly connections, went something like this.

Having already satiated our craving for frozen H2O, Jason and I decided to seek out a striking display of water’s liquid form, Horsetail Falls. Like that one girl you knew in high school, Horsetail Falls, a 100-foot cascade near Alpine, is both gorgeous and popular. We decided to approach Horsetail via the Northern Route, which is less used than the standard Horsetail Falls Trail on the other side of Dry Creek, to avoid the holiday crowds.

The Northern Route was indeed less busy, but it had some drawbacks. First, online information said there was a log bridge in place to cross the river. Instead, the bridge was just a few tree trunks tied together that bent and swayed when stepped on. Most of the time, I’m sure this rickety passage is perfectly adequate, but with the highest snowpack on record melting away, the river was a torrent of white water pounding furiously against bank rocks. Falling in almost certainly would have meant death. Hazarding that possibility on bowing, jerry-rigged timbers could correctly be categorized as stupid. I should have taken a picture of the span for reference, but my thoughts were on surviving not documenting at the time. Though crossing made me shaky and sick to my stomach, we continued. It was on those shaky legs that I encountered our next obstacle half a mile farther down the path, a rattler.

I have met many a rattlesnake while hiking in Utah. There are seven species of those vipers in the state. Luckily, they are rather gracious as far as snakes go and have the decency to give you a warning buzz when you get too close instead of sneaking up on you. This rattler was next to the trail in some thick underbrush. I immediately retreated to a safe distance when I heard its forceful hiss. Unfortunately, we were on a narrow section of the path with a sharp drop to the river on one side, so there wasn’t space to safely pass the serpent. We tried throwing little rocks in the snake’s direction to get it to move along, but the hissing jangle continued. As the brush was too concentrated to visually determine if/where the rattler was still present, we decided between it and the dodgy waterway, we were ready to try another trail. We turned around and settled on attempting a nearby route with a strange name, the First Hamongog.

Lone Peak
Lone and Box Elder Peaks make impressive backdrops as one heads to the First Hamongog.

What is a Hamongog? It means, “valley of the multitudes of Gog.” More specifically, it is the valley where the slain forces of Gog are buried. It is just one of the many scriptural references found in Utah’s topography nomenclature. Apparently, there are three Hamongogs, aka mountain meadows, on the south side of Lone Peak. I don’t know about the others, but the First Hamongog looks mystical with giant granite boulders strewn at random in its grassy alcove encircled by protective ridges. One could easily imagine it being the hallowed resting place of a nation’s warriors. Thanks to Utah’s wet winter and spring, the Hamongog was soft and a satisfying shade of emerald on our visit. I didn’t feel cheated having it be our endpoint instead of the falls.

First Hamongog
The First Hamongog was vibrant and peaceful.

If you wish to visit the First Hamongog, what should you know? The path is a five-mile out-and-back. It climbs 1,696 feet and is quite steep in sections. Calling it a trail isn’t entirely correct as it mostly follows an angled and rutted dirt road constructed by Lehi City to access some water tanks. Although not a singletrack, it doesn’t skimp on ambiance as it abruptly winds through hillsides of buttery wildflowers and drifting birdsong. The dirt road turns into a legit trail right as it enters the First Hamongog and, simultaneously, Lone Peak Wilderness. The path from the First Hamongog to the Second, which is 1.1 miles long, is defined but a little overgrown. We didn’t continue all the way to the Second due to the approach of darkness.

Finding the beginning of this trail is somewhat difficult as apps tell you to go down an access road that currently has a no trespassing sign. However, a path next to the road will get you to the trailhead with an extra 0.25 miles added each way. When you reach a rusty gate with “Lehi” stamped at the top, you are at the start of the dirt road and in the right place.

And that is how our 2023 Memorial Day hikes unfolded. No one drowned or got bit by a rattlesnake, though both seemed like a possibility at one point or another. A meadow of biblical status was reached, and muscles were used. Our trekking endeavors were successful in the end and a rewarding way to commence the Wasatch hiking season.

The Local Flock

The Great Salt Lake Bird Festival has been captivating bird watchers and nature enthusiasts since 1999, a demographic that has grown exponentially since the festival’s inception. The event includes about 50 field trips each year, yet these typically sell out in less than 10 minutes. For instance, in 2023 all tickets were claimed in about seven minutes. Why so popular, and why so popular with us?

The Great Salt Lake is critical to migratory birds attracting 8-10 million each year. This flying influx is comprised of 338 species. The bird festival is an excellent way to appreciate and learn about those species and the unique ecosystem that attracts them alongside avian and ecology experts. We love attending, but every year we have the same debate. Namely, how many early-morning field trips do we sign up for? In these sleep versus scholarship battles, scholarship usually wins. This time, we predictably decided getting up at ungodly hours three days in a row was worth it.

mist netting
Mist nets are a safe way to capture birds in order to study behavior and population health.

Why ungodly hours? Birds get up early. If you want to see them, you must also. We had to wake between 4:15 and 5:30 AM for all our field trips. After three days of that, we were exhausted. Somehow, we squeezed in afternoons of snowboarding on two of those days though. You’ve got to admit, our craziness is persistent.

The first field trip we attended, joined by a niece, was Mist Netting and Bird Banding. This took place in Farmington at the Eccles Wildlife Education Center headed by staff from the Department of the Interior who normally spend a morning catching birds every week at Hill Air Force Base. The information they collect is used for a national avian monitoring system. The bands are not electronic or WIFI, just old-school numbered metal circles. Banded birds are rarely recaptured, but it does happen.

a feisty flicker
This flicker was intent on doing harm to its handler, which is understandable.

During our session, we caught song sparrows, a robin, and a flicker. The bigger birds were feistier. Apparently, the little species are more accustomed to being picked on by other birds and are therefore more accepting of being handled. In contrast, the flicker had no intention of accepting anything and made that known with a lot of biting attempts. The robin also dabbled in snapping.

Our second outing was Birding by Electric Bike, which Jason’s parents joined us on. During this adventure, we peddled along the Jordan River. This was my first time ebiking, and I thought the optional power made the job way too easy. I want a workout when I bike. Hence, I turned my bike off half the time, and the rest of the time I set it to eco, the lowest setting. It didn’t seem right to pawn off my muscles’ job. While on this relaxing and pleasant excursion, we observed American kestrels, an osprey, and a cormorant along with a plethora of more common birds.

birding by bike
Birding by bike is both relaxing and productive.

Our last field trip was Bountiful Pond. Bountiful Pond was created when clay was removed from an area for a nearby landfill. Although its origins may be less than elegant, it now attracts many waterfowls and songbirds. We birded around the water for 2.5 hours finding sandhill cranes, Canadian geese, a domestic duck with peculiarly poofy hair, a cinnamon teal, a double-crested cormorant, and a yellow warbler just to name a few. Two of our nieces came with us. They seemed minimally eager at first but got more and more excited as we began finding species. I was surprised how many birds were all around us as soon as we started paying attention.

Bountiful Pond
Songbirds, waterfowls, and gulls are all commonly spotted at Bountiful Pond.

I’ve never understood why people don’t take advantage of their local events, natural wonders, and attractions. Jason and I do our best to get as much out of our whereabouts as possible. That’s why a week last May found us birding in the morning and boarding in the afternoon. Were we tired? Yes. Were we regretful? No… at least not eventually after we got some sleep.

Eureka! Let’s Dig!

Jason and I are all about experiencing life and sharing experiences with others. This ideology led to us giving our family members their choice of one of four activities in lieu of birthday presents in 2023. One of these options was a trip into Utah’s unconventional and under populated West Desert for some world-famous rock excavating. Eight of our family members chose this as their birthday activity and three others tagged along. The primary objective was trilobite fossils, but we found many other solid masses of significance. Here’s the scoop on our scooping.

We started this stone excursion with a stop in Eureka and nearby Silver City. Eureka was once Utah’s 9th-largest city. It’s story of boom and bust is typical of any mining mecca, except the boom lasted for over a century. Once home to nearly 4,000 people, Eureka is now an interesting and colorful settlement of 650 hardy residents and many relics of the past. If you are passing through, I’d recommend checking out the historic brick buildings, Porter Rockwell’s cabin, and the Star Theater’s projection equipment from 1935. (The theater itself closed in 1958.) We also stopped at Crazy Mary’s Rock Shop in the Gatley Building, which was constructed in 1898. Mary kindly gave us a tour of the old structure including its 20-foot indoor well used for cooling purposes during the prohibition days.

Silver City
Intriguing concrete foundations are what remains of Silver City.

From Eureka, we traveled to neighboring Silver City, a true ghost town. At one time, Silver City was home to a population of 1,500. From 1869 to 1915, it went from being a mining town to an ore sampling mill and smelter. After 1915, the mill closed, and by 1930 Silver City was mostly deserted. Massive concrete foundations with compartments, tunnels, arches, and towers are the principal remains at the location. We explored these and then headed up the road to the mouth of Dragon Canyon where the Dragon Mine still operates. Outside the gates of Dragon Canyon, we found a promising patch of dirt and started digging. There, we believe we found samples of hematite but plan on further analysis to confirm.

Gunnison Bend Reservoir
Our rented home was right on Gunnison Bend Reservoir, which meant the kids were instantly into fishing, kayaking, and forcing the adults to swim.

Long before the brief influx of miners, the West Desert was home to lasting residents, trilobites. Trilobites, one of Earth’s most successful lifeforms, evolved over 300 million years into more than 25,000 species. These sea-dwelling creatures flourished about 1,000 times longer than the entire span of current human existence.

It's the pits!
The fossils buried thousands of feet underground elsewhere are exposed at U-Dig.

Roughly an hour past Delta, an outcropping of Wheeler Shale containing some of the highest concentrations of trilobite fossils in North America was forced to the surface from thousands of feet below by warping and weathering. This remarkable layer is open to curious enthusiasts for personal excavation and fossil removal at U-Dig Fossils: Quarry. That was our destination the next day.

muscle and metal
Breaking up rocks sometimes requires more than just meager muscles.

While trilobites survived for hundreds of millions of years, the trilobites at U-Dig are from just the Cambrian Period, 500-550 million years ago. A lot of fossils can develop over 50 million years though. They are prolific at the site, and no one walked away empty-handed.

U-Dig dampness
A little dampness never hurt anyone… much.

We chipped and pried through rock in one of the quarry’s prehistoric pits from noon to a little after 5:30, almost closing time. At least, some of us did. You see, there was no rain in the forecast that day, but that didn’t stop it from raining. The showers started about 3:00 and continued the rest of the afternoon. The less resilient members of our group left early because they didn’t appreciate the soaking. Jason and I, along with a few others, kept at it and found some great specimens while chilled and water-logged.

Elrathia kingii
Elrathia kingii is the most common species of trilobite, but its fossils still thrill.

The following day, we headed to Obsidian Hill in search of Apache Tears, which are rounded obsidian pebbles. We found them and a whole lot of jasper. Unfortunately, the gnats found us. I obtained at least thirty gnat bites that afternoon. Jason didn’t get nearly as many, but he got one inside his ear and couldn’t sleep that night because he was in so much pain. The origins of these gnats were a mystery as there didn’t seem to be any water or anything else of gnatty interest nearby.

Utah’s West Desert is a fantastic place to travel back in time 150 years or 550 million years. The oddities are plentiful in that parched expanse. If you have a curiosity about rocks or just an inquisitive mind, it might be time to take your own family on a West Desert, dirt-sleuthing experience.