Soaked and Cultured Part II

We had just enough time between traveling from Brian Head to our first play at the Utah Shakespeare Festival to take a detour to Old Iron Town. Old Iron Town is the remains of a mining settlement that was established in 1868 and ceased operations in 1876, though mining continued in the area into the late 20th century with open-pit excavations and the building of a railroad for ore transportation. Predictably, Old Iron Town was an interesting stop.

beehive kiln
This kiln still bears scorch marks from 150 years ago.

After our visit into the deserted past, we were off to the most dramatic part of our vacation. We saw four plays at the Utah Shakespeare Festival over two days. Clue was Jason’s favorite in part because he understood the dialogue and plot fully, which isn’t always the case for him at the festival. I thought Clue was silly, witty, and fun to watch. Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street was perhaps less fun to witness. I expected it to be morbid; the involuntary gagging was slightly less anticipated. With that said, the acting was as well done as the flaky meat pies. The Tempest was showing at the festival’s smallest theater, and we enjoyed the intimate setting. This production turned male roles into female ones, a timely change if not entirely accurate to Shakespeare. Shakespearean tragedies often involve mutilations, dismemberments, and other such maimings. King Lear, with actor Anthony Heald in the lead, did not hold back on that front; eyeballs were gouged out and played with enthusiastically.

I promised I wasn’t done talking about our repeat encounters with rain, so let the torrent of information continue. Our King Lear performance was nearly canceled due to a heavy downpour that persisted for the first half hour of the show. Luckily, Jason and I were prepared as usual with multiple rain jackets and garbage bags, plus extras to pass around to those less equipped.

Thor’s Hideout
The Thor’s Hideout Trail passes some impressive rock formations.

Between all those shows, we purged thoughts of meat pies and insane sovereigns with a hike to Thor’s Lookout via Thor’s Hideout from the Thunderbird Gardens Trailhead, a total of 3.6 miles. Temperatures remained in the low eighties, hot enough for sweat but not hot enough for no sweat. Apart from the abundant, shapely vermillion rock, Thor’s throne, a massive chair created from stone and wood, was the coolest thing about this hike. Before departing Cedar City, my family also took a 1.5-mile walk on one of the town’s agreeable paved paths, the Cedar Canyon Trail. While not quite as scenic as Thor’s Hideout, its mild incline made it a hit with those in all shape stages.

Thor’s throne
Thor’s throne was fashioned out of logs and stones.

Upon leaving Cedar City, we stopped expanding our minds and started squishing our bodies. On the return drive, we stopped at the Tabernacle Hill Lava Tubes near Fillmore. We estimated we’d spend 1.5 hours there. Instead, we spent five. Our original guess didn’t account for the area’s many levels. Tabernacle Hill was an active volcano 10,000-24,000 years ago. Its numerous eruptions left a lava field nearly four miles wide. Atop that field are bizarre porous outcroppings and below it a fascinating system of lava tubes of varying sizes and in different states of ruin. We couldn’t leave one of these crunchy, aerated layers unsampled, so five hours it was.

ancient plumbing
The lava tubes at Tabernacle Hill are 10,000-24,000 years old.

We started our explorations by following a collapsed tube into a crater meadow before climbing through another partially collapsed tunnel. Afterward, we hiked to the top of the cinder cone adjacent to Tabernacle Crater, which was once a lava lake. The crown of this mound was mercilessly sharp, brilliantly scarlet, and jutted out of its crumbling base in a frenzied fashion. Excruciatingly uncanny! Later, we scoured the hillsides for more open tubes to discover. The tubes were prolific but finding entrance holes proved difficult. We succeeded eventually, and the cramped-quarters lovers amongst us went on a tight shaft romp in that find before we all returned to a sizable intact tube on the other side of the road. That large conduit provided much to encounter with a flashlight and a blacklight. Just as we were about to exit the cave, a downpour began, so we got drenched one more time. Later, we learned there was a flash flood in Cedar City just hours after we left.

Tabernacle’s cinder cone
This cinder cone had lost none of its sharpness in its tens of thousands of years.

Nothing eliminates cave funk like hot springs funk. With that in mind, after Tabernacle Hill we took yet another detour, this time to Meadow Hot Springs. Meadow Hot Springs are a string of geothermally heated pools located near Tabernacle Hill. Some of the pools apparently reach 100 degrees. The one we plopped into seemed more like warm bath water. A foot soak sure felt nice though. The nibbling fish, a little less so.

grotto gashes
Everyone in our group got cut by the lava rocks at some point during our explorations of Tabernacle Hill, including one head gusher.

With that, our oddly adventurous trip prompted by a series of plays ended. Since the soakings were almost as prolific as the monologues, it wasn’t exactly what we were expecting. However, sometimes the unexpected is better… as long as you don’t get struck by lightning.

Soaked and Cultured Part I

With the success of our Shakespearean trip in 2021, my family decided to give the Utah Shakespeare Festival another whirl in 2022. Jason and I opted to go a little early and get out of the summer heat at nearly 10,000 feet in Brian Head, which is only about half an hour from Cedar City. We sure did get out of the heat and then some. Here’s how our vacation turned into a deluge of water, culture, and conduits.

Per our typical M.O., we arrived in Brian Head just in time. On this occasion, just in time to hike 2.5 miles on the Manzanita Trail… or, more specifically, just in time to hike half that distance before dark and the other half not before dark. The Manzanita Trail is a mild path that runs along Parowan Canyon’s hillsides above State Route 143. While the highway can be heard and seen in sections, the trail feels removed from the road for the most part. If you want a quick introduction to Brian Head, this is a good track to take. You can access it from the Town Trail just where SR-143 intersects Aspen Drive.

Sidney Peaks
Does this look like thunderstorm weather to you?

The next day, we were uncertain if the weather would allow us to do another hike, but as the threat of rain and thunderstorms decreased and shifted to later in the afternoon, we felt reasonably comfortable attempting the trek to Sidney Peaks. Sidney Peaks are a trio of small mountains that range in elevation from just under 11,000 feet to just over 11,000 feet. The Sidney Peaks Trail, which is a section of the Bunker Creek Trail, crosses a saddle between the South and Middle Peaks. While there are no official paths that lead to the tops of any of the peaks, Middle’s apex is easy to reach. You can carefully avoid stepping on delicate mountain foliage by sticking to rocks and gravel as you climb a final incline to its 11,060-foot summit.

Middle Peak
By the time we left Middle Peak, we knew something was headed our way, but we didn’t realize its arrival was not just imminent but immediate.

From its zenith, we could survey all our surroundings. We observed a sky stuffed with unsettled clouds and rain off in the distance. Although the storm seemed a considerable space away, we still set about the task of heading down with a little urgency. The first claps of thunder ripped through the alpine serenity before we had even returned to the main trail. That’s when the sprinkles started too. Soon after, as the cliché saying goes, all hell broke loose.

Drenched!
Our rain jackets proved about as effective in this storm as they would be in a swimming pool.

The storm kept worsening at a rapid pace as it struggled to chug up the ridgeline the Sidney Peaks Trail runs along. We were concerned about the hunk of metal Jason had on his back in the form of a tripod becoming a lightning beacon, so we ran the sections where tree cover was nonexistent, or the thunder seemed particularly wrathful. Out of the 2.3 miles of main trail we had to traverse to get back to the trailhead, we sprinted at least half with backpacks jostling and sopping pants clinging to tired legs.

a peak peek
From Brian Head Peak, you can reportedly see both Nevada and Arizona.

The downpour escalated until we could barely see, and our shoes were so wet we didn’t even bother trying to avoid the large puddles and streams covering the path. Fortunately, the lightning wasn’t as plentiful as the thunder, and it never struck anything near us. The last part of the route, a downhill portion, looked more like a stream than a path as we sped through it. I felt certain floods were flashing in some of the surrounding hillsides. Sidney Peaks’ 5.25 miles would have been a mild and satisfying trek if it hadn’t been for all the effort required to avoid becoming lightning kabobs.

Brian Head Peak
Although Brian Head Peak requires only a short drive to enjoy, Jason and I don’t recall making the journey during previous visits to the area.

After the rain ceased later in the afternoon, we rallied enough energy to drive to the top of Brian Head Peak, which tops out at 11,307 feet, and enjoy its 360-degree scenery while dodging yellow-bellied marmot droppings. We also drove a few extra minutes to the North View Overlook at Cedar Breaks. We did not feel inclined to do any more hikes since we were suffering from post-traumatic storm disorder.

North View
We happened upon the North View Overlook of Cedar Breaks right as the sun was departing in a photogenic flash.

As we were heading out of town the next day, we discovered SR-143 had been closed since the previous afternoon due to a blockage of water, mud, and trees caused by a flash flood, an occurrence I had predicted. Fortunately, the debris had been cleared enough to allow one lane of traffic through the canyon, and we were able to continue with minimal delay.

I wish I could say we were done dealing with cloudbursts at this point in our outing, but that would be an inaccuracy. Next time, I will cover the rest of the trip and the rest of the deluge.

Montana Extremes Part III: Butte

After our prolonged stint at Fort Missoula, we headed to Butte. What was our first impression of Butte? Historic, peculiar, unique, and in need of a little love in some spots. Butte’s past is firmly intertwined with the hollows beneath its earth. Butte has had at least 512 mine claims within its boundaries, and there are 10,000 miles of mining tunnels below the city. That’s the distance between Los Angeles and New York City times four. Like I said, curious.

town hole
As the Berkeley Pit is directly adjacent to Butte, street after street was slowly demolished to make room for its ever-expanding hole with shady tactics being employed regularly by the Anaconda Copper Mining Company to obtain possession of entire neighborhoods.

We made it to Butte with just enough daylight left to visit the Granite Mountain Speculator Mine Memorial. In June of 1917, a fire broke out in the Speculator Mine killing 168 men, mostly through oxygen deprivation. The mine was at maximum operation at the time due to high copper demand related to America’s entry into World War I, and working conditions were grim. Both factors contributed to the fire’s capability to inflict widespread wreckage. The Speculator Mine Disaster is the worst metal (hard rock) mining catastrophe in planet history. Its memorial was a sobering reminder of the substantial sacrifices made by regular folks to supply the resources we take for granted.

Butte’s gallows
Fourteen headframes, the metal skeletons of dead mines, are still scattered throughout Butte, a reminder of the 225 mines that once operated in the city.

The next morning, we got up extra early to get a Butte load. We started with a visit to the Copper King Mansion. The Copper King Mansion was built by one of Butte’s three copper lieges, W.A. Clark, between 1884 and 1888 in Romanesque Revival Victorian style. While this 34-room manor was only one of the many he owned as the second-wealthiest man in America, he insisted that quality and bragability be maintained. Hence, the mansion was lavish and full of entertaining nuances, which our engaging guide was happy to highlight.

tunnel to toxicity
A viewing platform at the edge of Berkeley Pit’s toxic, 7,000-foot-long lake can be accessed via a lengthy tunnel through a hillside.

Following our tour, we stopped at Butte’s toxic pit to see the less beautiful side of mining. The Berkeley Pit is the remains of an open-pit copper mine that was active between 1955 and 1982. When the pit ceased operations and the pumps at the nearby Kelley Mine were turned off, groundwater began to fill it. Water levels slowly rose over the next decades until the pit’s fluid was in danger of spilling into groundwater and rivers. What would be so disastrous about a little liquid mingling?

Berkeley Pit
The waters of the Berkeley Pit were much worse before the EPA forced a cleanup. They once resembled a metallic wine instead of an agreeable turquoise.

The pool in Berkeley Pit is about 900 feet deep and has a pH of 2.5, which is roughly the acidity of lemon juice or vinegar. It isn’t the acidity of this water that raises the greatest concerns though, it is its contents. The water contains high concentrations of copper, cadmium, iron, cobalt, zinc, manganese, and arsenic. In 1994, the EPA forced the mine’s owners to take some responsibility for their mess by requiring them to keep water levels in the pit below the protective water level, the elevation at which its water would enter the groundwater system- 5,410 feet. Why were the mine’s possessors so irresponsible about taking care of their hole to begin with? I guess the easy answer is “corporate America” and a shrug of the shoulders. One can only hope they will not pull further careless shenanigans with their Continental Pit, another open-pit operation that was opened near the Berkley Pit in 1980.

Butte’s legacy
Mining deaths in Butte have exceeded 2,500 and the value of all the minerals extracted $101.6 billion in today’s metal prices.

As if that weren’t enough underground stuff, we later went to the World Museum of Mining. There, in addition to exploring an accurately reproduced mining town with 50 structures, we descended 100 feet vertically (10 stories) and over half a mile horizontally into an actual mine, the Orphan Girl Mine.

The Orphan Girl Mine operated until 1956 with zinc, silver, and lead being the primary minerals of interest. Its shaft extended 3,200 feet down, and we got to nervously dangle over it in a cage during our tour. Unlike most of the other underground mines in Butte, which could surpass temperatures of 100 degrees due to geothermal activity, the Orphan Girl was not hot but homely. It stayed between about 55 and 65 degrees throughout its many levels of crisscrossing tunnels. This made it popular with miners and pleasant for our expedition.

Orphan Girl Mine
The Orphan Girl Mine once produced 600 tons of ore a day.

What did I learn from this tour, besides that it is possible for me to hang out in a mine without having a panic attack? Underground miners had, and continue to have, a tough gig. By candlelight, and later by carbide lamps, they had to perform detailed work and differentiate the color of rocks. FYI, in tunnel conditions, all rocks appear the same hue. They had acid water dripping on them all day and were susceptible to silicosis caused by dust inhalation. Plus, there was always the possibility of being crushed by machinery or a cave-in or being asphyxiated in a fire. Sounds glamorous, doesn’t it? It’s no wonder plunging into the earth was a daily source of anxiety even for experienced miners.

cage of the mine
On average, a regular elevator moves at 430 feet per minute. By comparison, mining cages like this one moved at 800 feet per minute. It’s no wonder that 33% of Butte’s mining deaths in the late 1800s were from hoisting accidents

As interesting as Butte’s hidden features were, we didn’t just go into its hills, we also clambered over them. Big Butte, the remains of an extinct volcano that last erupted 49 million years ago, gave the city of Butte its name. We hiked the Big Butte Loop with an added climb to the top of Big Butte, about 2.5 miles total. The hike was easy, rewarding, and the last adventure of our vacation.

Big Butte
While a distinct landmark, this extinct volcano had little to do with the mineral deposits that made Butte a mining mecca.

We visited three areas of Montana close in proximity but divided by separate histories and geographical features. Hamilton seemed defined by its mountains, Missoula by its rivers, and Butte by its earth. We delved into Montana’s fascinating past through ghost towns, museum exhibits, and several tours. We also witness the continued unfolding of history at places like the Berkeley Pit and found awe in chiseled landscapes as we scaled mountains. There were many sad reminders of America’s history of prejudice throughout but also tales of perseverance and resilience. This area that wasn’t on our travel list or radar even surprised us continually with its singular places, curious narratives, and remarkable backdrops.

By the way, as food is of great import, you won’t readily find fine cuisine in Montana, but you will find plenty of excellent sandwiches, pastries, and coffee.